Ronan Opina: Return of the Mao
MANILA, Philippines - There was a hint of the awkwardness of “Sunday best” dressing to Ronan Opiña’s latest collection: it erred on the side of traditional, even downright old-fashioned, as if the model gents raided their dads’ closets to play dress-up. The problematic proportions were a major factor in this and some of Opiña’s choice of fabrics, which are unconventional for suits in the first place, didn’t help. A coat made of a material with a damask-like finish has great shoulders but the fabric’s stiffness is evident in the cumbersome sleeves, and textiles like jacquard with their light-catching patterns don’t lend themselves well to cuts other than super skinny. Velvet camel-colored coats paired with patterned pants — separately, they are workable pieces but together, the resulting look is reminiscent of the pajama dressing trend but one that is pour l’homme and of the middle-age bracket.
Still, amid the off-kilter feel of the collection were some surprisingly pleasant hits: a long-sleeved lace shirt and an immaculate bib-front shirt are pieces perfect for a young hooligan playing sweet and proper for the day. The best look, though, was Opiña’s reincarnation of the Mao suit, cut slim and in chocolate textured satin. Refreshingly simple in the parade of striped, lapeled, and belted looks, the shiny brown suit was cheekily retro with its standing collar that almost completely covers the throat, a welcome relief from the swaths of chest exposed in the other suits.
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The show is part of Style Origin, under the collaborative efforts of Philippine STAR, Ayala Malls and Tiger 22, sponsored by Visa, Globe and Samsung. Cary Santiago debuts his men’s week collection at Ayala Center Cebu today.
