Vintage and modern meet in stark palettes, sporty streetwear

MANILA, Philippines - The Design Fusion category brought about an onslaught of black and nude creations — absolutely no vivid colors in this mellowed-down palette. Clearly, play on textures was the name of the game. Bo Parcon exemplified the theme, starting the set with his blown-up houndstooth prints, intermixed with curly cue ribbon details and silky latticework accents. The result was visually rich and highly textured creations that, despite their apparent bulkiness, still managed to straddle the line between hard and soft. Enrico Carado gave a nod towards the mystical and drew inspiration from dark fairies for his collection, palpable in the studded wing appliques that adorned his garments. It was a youthful set dotted with peplums on micro skirts, short bubble hems, halter tops, deep V-necks, and lots of bare backs. Perhaps sans the sky-high shoes that caused more than a few of the models to plummet, these edgy, well put-together looks will certainly be a shoe-in (no pun intended) for the cool crowd. Last up to bat was Jaki Peñalosa, who went a different route with her choice of natural fabrics. Ribbons, pleats and embroidery on natural abaca and pineapple fiber alluded to the vintage, while details like relaxed draping, halter necks, ruching and plunging necklines grounded the set in modernity. 

Visions & Trends introduced experimental looks that at times jived with the wearable, but in some cases, clashed with reality in their over-the-top, costume-y nature. Happy Andrada was at it again with her signature larger-than-life vision. An explosion of ice-white tulle, lace, organza in voluminous layers, as well as fringe and ribbons over nude bodices and silver dip-died fabrics created bewitching and almost eerie pieces. Jan Garcia sent out creations that were mixed media exemplified. We’re talking knit, fur, silk, wool; several fabrics and textures all thrown together in a singular look. Fans of the Game of Thrones series may conjure Khaleesi to mind with the warrior-like metallic plates, paneled skirts and strategically placed cutouts epitomized his creations. Oz Go’s collection added a much-needed punch of color to this set. Rich jewel tones faded to white in his Indian and Egyptian inspired pieces. Color blocking and geometric shapes added to the tailored clothing’s allure. Don’t be surprised to see his beautiful ombre blazers donned by a few tastemakers come holiday season. Regine Dulay went futuristic with her creative juices set on creating ensembles fit for an intergalactic queen. Elements of layered chiffon and tulle equated to voluminous designs. Ample amounts of laser cutting and patchwork synthetic leather led to a very geometric collection. Sexy-tough defined Russel Villafuerte’s form-fitting, all black set. Leather, twill, sequins, and sheer fabrics in interestingly bold cuts coupled with pleating details and subtle geometric patterns thoughtfully positioned in strategic locations made for rich, dark and sensual pieces.

At Ready to Wear, a few looks defied the category, but most lived up to the expectations that an RTW show connotes. We wouldn’t be surprised to see a number of these pieces flying off the racks. Dave Ocampo delivered flowy, feminine gowns and dresses. Jewel-crusted floral appliques and beads adorned shoulders and necklines. Emi Alexander Englis hit the spot with her offering of comfortable and loose apparel. Sporty and laid-back, she successfully supplied a healthy dose of glammed-up loungewear. Harley Ruedas’collection put the spotlight on a trusty wardrobe staple-denim. Tailored jackets and dresses in heavily decorated patchwork denim, coupled with sparkly fabrics comprised the bulk of the show. Playful? Yes. Loud? Even more so. Simplicity was key with Jian Lasala. He sent out several permutations of the immaculate white sheath dress in a variation of lengths, shapes, and necklines. The look’s languid nature was mixed up with an injection of sharp, pronounced shoulders. John Guarnes‘s medium of pastel colored, high-sheen silken fabrics, lace and fur in relaxed fits was luxe, but felt a little tired. Mike Lavarez presented deconstructed basic casual separates. Mullet cuts in a sea of black and gray and a mix of sheer and leather made the collection very on-trend, yet completely wearable. The much buzzed-about designer, Nixon Marquez, delivered a grunge-y urban streetwear collection of trousers, vests and sweatshirt tops replete with paint-splatter prints, liquid shine patent pieces, and accent zippers. Separates worked alone or together, in a palette of muted gray and black well-loved by city slickers. Heavy on jackets, and not afraid to play with proportion, this was one seriously cool collection.