A last hurrah

MANILA, Philippines - The fall/winter season is coming, but bright, jewel tones refuse to be relegated to the back of the closet. Deep reds, mustard yellows, iridescent purples, and even the very spring/summer lime green colored the runways of the Haute Couture shows at Paris Fashion Week, a departure from the usual somber hues appropriated for the upcoming season. Designers seem determined to keep looks fun — or at least dramatic — playing with textures and very un-fall-like embellishments: Iris Van Herpen hammered, shredded, and feathered his fabrics into fanciful pieces whose appeal span the medieval and the futuristic, while froth, sparkle, and sheerness had an extended run at Elie Saab’s presentation. Xuan-Thu Nguyen’s collection has gone to the birds with its profusion of feathers and fringe-like paillettes and Stephane Rolland’s form-fitting gowns look like bright quills dipped in ink. Postponing the drabness of the cold season was the order of the day — although Quentin Veron has a contingency plan, with his Game of Thrones-appropriate pieces fortified with fur.