Color coding

Color is back! This time with a sophisticated dose of integrity. It is almost a tradition in the wake of the somber colors of the holiday season (fashion’s greatest irony): a splash of acidic hues brought to wake us up from that month-long hangover. Then there’s a kinder palette that summons the colors of nature as if to beckon the coming of spring. Blush hues, garden greens and elderberry purples dot the seasonal color wheel with feelings of health and rejuvenation.

Last year we had surfer chic, which when we look back was just as regrettable as Perry Ellis grunge. The cartoonish typecast of these flaming shades have since been whipped by my favorite Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein. Continuing with the line’s ode to minimalism, their combination of color and stark cuts defines confidence.

Color by number: Dresses from the top fashion houses brighten up the the sallow soul from party seasons past.

Color has been known for its effects on mood. Native American Indians have used color and colored light to heal. Blue can slow pulse rates, lower body temperatures and reduce appetite. Orange is about balance, warmth and vibrancy.

Then there are visceral associations with color. Red is the most energetic and attention grabbing color. Yellow, an interesting color, can symbolize both joy and deceit, because it’s a primary color that can change the hue of other primary colors. Purple, which is the color of nobility, was a difficult hue to create. Purple dye back in the day was made from the mucous gland of a snail. It required thousands of snails to yield one gram of dye. Thus it was a color only nobles could really pocket.

These days purple, because of its versatility, is now considered a new neutral. It balances and complements almost every color in the wheel. Just don’t go Barney purple. Or worse, yam purple. That’s just royally wrong.

Don’t send in the clowns: Bright makeup, like Mac (above) and Make Up For Ever’s (below) palettes, used with the utmost restraint can be lovable and elegant. A stiff combination!

There’s just a simple rule for wearing color: Pick a team. 

If you’re going to wear a bright dress, wear clean makeup and slicked-back hair. The aim is to give color some dignity and to wake up the soul, not jar it. If you elect to use the trend on your face, make sure to take advantage of the willowy whites and sturdy neutrals that are also still hot this season as a contrast to your clothing. (I know: it used to be cute to look like a peacock.) But, like Matthew Williamson’s peacock print, it’s just so totally over that there’s no word for it.

For color makeup try using crème formulas — they go on sheerer plus the warmth of your fingertips as you apply them creates a more seamless wash. MAC has Cremeblends, which is amazing for anywhere in the face. It is a great product for creating a monochromatic look that’s anything but boring (although it is always wise to warm it with some subtle bronzer on the cheeks). 

So enjoy the Crayola craze. Just remember it’s more about a wash than a furious scribble.