Labels take a laissez-faire approach to denim

MANILA, Philippines - During Philippine Fashion Week, expect as much pomp and spectacle from the retail brands as much as from the designers. Maybe even more. Apart from the rare designer celebrity muse taking to the catwalk, it’s the retail brands that have the celebrity endorsers and the pre-show dinners to give more incentive, if not sizzle, to what is yet another runway lineup.

Interestingly enough, it is also the retail brands that come up with highly-stylized productions. Understandably enough, since it would be difficult to combine too many concepts for the 15-or-so-designer group shows that usually make up the PFW slate.

Since they started showing at Philippine Fashion Week, Jag’s and Lee’s shows have been the most production-worthy. The two brands, manufactured and distributed locally by the same mother company, take their styling licenses quite seriously and manage to transform two streetwear brands into an extravaganza of fantastical story lines and future worlds. It was only Jag that showed in this particular PFW cycle, promoting a show that spouted off on a futuristic war theme, — Denim Wars, to be exact. So a catwalk fray of sorts sent out jean-clad villains and heroes, sentinels with studded chest plates and citizenry wearing bristly headpieces.

Taking complete advantage of the fantasy theme, Jag once again turns a casual jeans collection into a fashion rebellion, a dissent from the usual notion that there is only so much you can do with denim. Show director Robby Carmona and stylist Rxcy Bautista’s tandem once again proves the worth of edgy graphics and detailed costumery. At Jag’s Dstrukt Denim Wars presentation, Jag’s pieces, particularly their premium draw, the Legging Jeans and Weather Beaten Jeans, are transformed into rugged armor for revolutionary urbanites or sleek wear for the beatific babes that surround heroes — in this story line, anyway.

Which in this runway plot is Jag’s new endorser, tough-guy-with-heart Robin Padilla, now a more sinewy presence than in his last Philippine Fashion Week appearance. Though Jag formally launched Robin as endorser in this show, Robin also walked the ramp for Lee last year, proving that his appeal goes beyond action-packed meleés and, most recently, lunch time shows.

Clad in faded bootcuts and an unbuttoned plaid shirt, Robin made his first come-out on the upper deck of the stage, eliciting mallgoer shrieks, before sauntering down the catwalk, steely gaze and coaxing pout in place. Lean, fit and with clothes unsoiled, he was the ideal antithesis to Will Devaugn’s commandeering villain. Will had earlier made his bad-guy mosey in leather-patched black jeans, spiked boots, a bare chest and black eyeliner.

Celebrity appearances and over-the-top style. A packed Mall of Asia and a Saturday crowd. This was Fashion Week at its most entertaining. Across the street at the SMX Convention Center, however, things were a little more somber.

Penshoppe, taking off on a new campaign that promotes an older, more mature imaging, made sure things were kept sober at their own PFW showing, albeit still sartorially sound. The brand is shrugging off its collegiate attractions and is now marketing towards yuppies and the young stylish urbanite.

Its runway show mirrored the aesthetics of its new print campaigns: mostly blacks and dark colors with lustrous fitted denims and tasteful accessorizing, but doing away with the motorbikes. Penshoppe’s inspiration recalled London’s High Street scene and its effortlessly indulgent fashions, as well as the ascetic palette only the city’s overcast skies can inspire.

Cotton sportswear in various shades of gray started the show, a serious indication that Penshoppe was channeling an older clientele. The show moved on to navy blues, military greens, earthy browns and a slew of black variations: shiny peacoats and severe form-fitting bottoms for men and slouchy cowlnecks and cropped pants for the women.

Gone are the blatantly-trendy details and overused statement tees. The new Penshoppe is sliding along a subtle slate, although with as much conviction as its past showings. It’s an unexpected change but one which, in a sea of brands that have taken cutesy way too seriously, is undoubtedly welcome.

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