Milan goes ladylike

MILAN — Far from the body-clinging styles that gave Italian designers their sexy reputation, the previews for the new fall/winter collections are all about dressing like a lady.

Even Dolce & Gabbana, the now grown-up enfants terribles of fashion, have tamed down their look for next winter, presenting a young woman whose primary concern is to be well-dressed. Miuccia Prada called her latest winter collection “sexy,” but while a few hints of flesh between ruffles on a woolen dress might be tempting for the once minimalist designer, it can hardly be called risqué.

There’s a retro feel to the current round of Milan fashion with fewer trousers, looser skirts, cinched waists, silk tops, raised shoulders and couture cut jackets and coats. The accent is often on the bosom — as it was before braless became popular — with corset-shaped bodices or special stitching on a dress to create a pointed effect.

The days of the crazy towering heel that toppled more than one runway model, seem to be over, replaced by winter wedges or ’50s-style stilettos. The favorite shoe is an ankle bootie, while bags look to those vintage-style rigid leather totes with sturdy handles and clutches in various shapes and sizes.

On Sunday, the last day of the top-billed designers, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Cavalli, and Versus, all showed their winter wears. Marni came up with a very artsy collection made of sculpted outfits and jewelry made out of natural materials. 

Dolce&Gabbana dedicated their collection to the Sicilian signora. Using a little black jacket as a starting point, the designing duo unraveled a passionate collection of perfectly tailored suits and coats, elegant silk negligee dresses and demure velvet evening gowns.

Even Cavalli kept up with the modest look of the season. The usually raunchy Roberto Cavalli opted for a hippie style with long lace and chiffon skirts worn with flat snakeskin sandals, the latter proof that he still does not abandon his penchant for animal prints. AP