Pantsuits and a ladylike ease dominate fall 2010

NEW YORK — With one move, Marc Jacobs changed the look and tone of New York Fashion Week. The designer, touted as the most influential in the U.S., ripped brown-paper wrapping off the box-within-a-box construction of his runway to reveal dozens of models in the most elegant and ladylike clothes. There was both sophistication and sweetness in the outfits that borrowed from a more refined time.

On other runways, designers seemed to be going for the gold. And the silver. And bronze. Metallic fabrics shone on the runways of Zac Posen, Carolina Herrera, Rachel Roy, Luca Luca and Diane von Furstenberg, among others.

“Like my mother always said, all girls like a little dazzle,” said designer Tracy Reese.

Marc Jacobs

Jacobs clearly has turned a new leaf from his more recent party-girl ’80s-influenced collections. Dresses were mostly A-line, adding a little volume, although one stunner was a body-hugging sweater covered on the front with shiny beading.

Jacobs also confirmed a longer-length hemline that had been seen as one of the season’s likely trends. “These were gorgeous, real clothes that were beautifully done,” said Joe Zee, creative director for Elle magazine. “Don’t you walk away feeling elated? Isn’t that the whole point of fashion?”

These lovely ladies wore tweed, suede or boucle coats on a proper date — or perhaps a transparent trench with a hint of sparkle for a special occasion. For day, there were several suits, including a three-piece menswear plaid one and a gray-flannel culotte version — yes, culottes.

Donna Karan

When you’ve got the chic eye of Donna Karan, you don’t need a lot of glitz to celebrate fashion. In fact, the collection to mark the 25th anniversary of her label was almost entirely black, spare and highly sculptured.

And it looked great.

There was no better model for the modern, almost stiff, coats that really were the star of this runway than Karan herself, who is probably far more relatable to consumers than the tall, slender catwalkers. She wore it as she took her bow in front of a crowd that included Demi Moore and Brooke Shields.

The coats, which had a hint of origami influence to them, paired as well with a plunging-cowl evening gown as slim trousers. To feel really special, sometimes a separate ruffled collar was added on top — but it would be the wearer’s choice.

Carolina Herrera

For a while, it seemed Carolina Herrera was trying to court a hipster customer, but she showed Monday that she is firmly committed to the rarified world in which she lives.

There was luxury like a Prussian-blue, mosaic-print jacket with fur lining and a mink collar, worn with camel-colored suede pants, and a sky-and-steel blue gown with beaded leaves and a swath of tulle around the neck.

There was a hint of a Russian influence to the overall look of the show, in her color choices, fur and style of embroidery. The daywear models also wore full-brim hats.

The Herrera lady —”woman” doesn’t sound quite right — is a day-and-night dresser, not a day-to-night one. Look for her in a deep red wool sheath with asymmetrical vertical pleats for day, and a distinctly different black-and-metallic embossed organza gown with a hint of red framing the face in the evening.    AP