The new utilitarianism

MANILA, Philippines - After years of excessorizing, Phoebe Philo’s ascension to Celine designer comes as a relief to many who felt the excess of flounces, trim and rufffles were bordering on the ridiculous. One glance at the award season’s red carpet results — the preponderance of over-the-top bows and ruffles put Carmen Miranda to shame — and it’s clear to see that this year’s crop of spring-summer looks is going to be a lean one.

Philo’s celebrated collection, a mix of spartan silhouettes bordering on the monastic (but with a fresh sex appeal, natch), skimmed the figure and let the clothes’ cuts do the talking. Instead of relying on showy gewgaws, plenty of designers offered clean-cut sportswear in a varying number of materials. Leather, linen and cotton served as the base template for simple shifts, rompers and sheaths.

Call it utilitarianism. Though first impressions recall images of asceticism — stark, austere silhouettes — the end results are polar opposites. Think straightforward, uncomplicated styles that are easy to wear and make an understated statement.

And after seasons of glitter and flash, it’s kind of nice to see a clean khaki coat in the mix.