Men marching

MANILA, Philippines - Menswear has finally found its place in the local fashion scene and it was refreshing to see that designers are offering more choices for the Pinoy male. Six of the country’s up and coming, as well as veteran designers, showcased an assortment of men’s looks from the very wearable to the unthinkable, in materials like the usual cotton to the unusual mesh and leather, proving that variety is always a good thing.

Anthony Nocom

A veteran in menswear design, Anthony Nocom has made a name for himself as one of SM’s in-house designers as well as the go-to guy for sharply cut suits and dress pants. And this season, he did not disappoint. Using a palette of black and white, he showcased checked polo shirts and pants with a slim silhouette, finely-tailored suit jackets and classic black shorts that will surely appeal to men with different tastes. It was no-nonsense and straight forward, no frills or gimmicks, just clean lines and good workmanship. The color in his muted palette came in the end in the form of a bright red corduroy jacket. Not for the faint of heart, but conceptual nonetheless. A fitting last piece to a great collection. 

Bang Pineda

Bang Pineda’s take on menswear went the more edgy route, injecting a hippie vibe with his tie dyed pants and soft wrap-around jackets in cotton and silk, leggings and printed bibs. His laid-back style showed up in comfy ponchos and male boleros worn over loose white and gray T-shirts. His piece de resistance, a jacket with laces woven around at the back, was interesting and original.

Estien Quijano

Breakthrough designer Estien Quijano’s menswear line is just as exciting, innovative and unique as his women’s line, which debuted in the pages of glossy magazines just last year. His signature woven garter tops, skirts and dresses won over fashionistas for its fresh and ingenious take on the humble material. He sent the girls out first in sexy patchwork dresses with tattered details and a bare back. The sheer materials were off-set with heavier fabrics in a wonderful mix of textures. The finale for his women’s line was a grandiose whimsical gown fit for a fairy (literally) tale wedding. Next came his men’s line, still with garter details intertwined in pants, jackets, boleros and even shirt cuffs. This finale was even better. Reminiscent of Project Runway winner Aries Lagat’s winning collection, Estien created three transforming looks in skirts that turned into jackets that twisted and turned when the body moved. Wearable? Maybe. Radical? Definitely.

Jerome Lorico

Perhaps one of the more tame collections this season came from Jerome Lorico. His basic cargo pants, cut-out tees and long vests would have been more interesting had they been printed or in an unexpected fabric instead of plain blacks and grays. He did play with texture through mesh shirts worn under cotton jackets and used black bands for accessories. His barbwire dress worn over an LBD, however, was a pleasant surprise — in a glam Mad Max sort of way. A saving grace to an otherwise so-so collection.

Marc Tana

Marc Tana’s collection was more on the casual side, barely showing any of his tailoring skills, save for a suit in a less than appealing shiny fabric and trench jacket. He chose to show hooded sleeveless vests, bermuda shorts and polo shirts in a black, white and gray palette.

Odelon Simpao

Hands down, the most colorful collection of the night was Odie Simpao’s play of red and khaki with hints of mustard. He showed off his years of experience in tailoring as head designer for Onesimus with finely-cut pants with his signature piping detail, and suit jackets. The pop-color scheme was further enhanced by creative styling — male models were dressed up like nerdy boys with cute bow ties and black-rimmed glasses. It was a formula that actually worked, and made the choice of colored fabric less costumey and more kitschy. Odie’s women’s line was not as strong, though. The minidresses were sort of dated and could have worked with less frills had he gone the minimalist route. His strength lies in menswear and, in that aspect, delivered a stellar performance.