Ladies go gaga over his dresses

You may not have heard of Ashley Isham yet, but this is one name that could very well be blowing up the pages of international fashion magazines soon. The Singapore-born, London-based designer has already worked with Mariah Carey, dressed Kylie Minogue for her recent X Tour, whipped up a Grammy outfit for Christina Aguilera and put J.Lo in something appropriately goddess-like. He is a favorite of Lady Gaga, who discussed her bluffin’ muffin on the BBC talk show Jonathan Ross, sipping tea in a flaming orange one-shoulder “Post-It” dress, a showpiece from Isham’s spring/summer ’08 collection.

His dresses have been described as “paparazzi bait” created for “gorgeous girls who like to party,” and loyal followers from the London fashion pack include Jasmine Guinness, Michelle Collins, Erin O’ Connor and Lisa Butcher. Lest you think he’s just another dahling of the size-zero party circuit, Isham surprises by being incredibly grounded, focused, and values-oriented. He was raised by an Asian mum, after all.

He’s also the first Asian designer to be asked by Coca-Cola to design a limited-edition Coke Light can, joining the ranks of Manolo Blahnik, Roberto Cavalli, Matthew Williamson and Natalie Ryquiel who all have tinkered with the iconic silver can. His design, called “Jewel In Your Hand,” is a spin-off from a jewel-encrusted corset he sent out at this year’s London Fashion Week from a collection that does an original tribute to Blade Runner’s retro-futurisitc silhouettes, complete with big Sean Young bouffants.

Isham stopped in Manila for a short breather before heading back to London and then back again to Singapore for the Audi Fashion Festival on May 6, which will also be graced by Christian Lacroix, Gareth Pugh,Vivienne Westwood, and Marc by Marc Jacobs. YStyle thanks Ariel Lozada for the introductions.

YStyle: When you first moved to England, did you experience some kind of culture shock or did you just fit right in?

Ashley Isham: I felt that I fit in, I was just doing my own thing, in my own little world. I went to Central St Martins, and have been in England since 1995. I decided to follow my dreams, and decided to stay. I’ve been working now for 16 seasons...that’s eight years already!

My mom was a seamstress, so when I was young I loved watching her, and learned so much just by watching her. Also the values, which are very Asian, like honesty, hard work, filial piety. I’m very close to my mum. People expect me to act like some kind of prima donna. But why do I have to change? My mum will kill me if I misbehave!

What does she think of your clothes?

She thinks they’re very avant garde and very sexy. But she always told me to have conviction, follow my dreams and not be afraid, and to always believe in myself. So my mum’s not exactly a traditionalist — she let me go abroad to begin with. And she taught me how to sew. When I was younger I used to hate what everyone else was wearing when we’d go out. I know exactly what I want. People think that I must come from a very privileged family. But they’re wrong, I come from a very poor family, but we manage. That’s why I work very hard.

Was it a struggle in the beginning?

When you’re in college, you have to save money. I didn’t come home for five years. I worked as a personal stylist for wealthy ladies who don’t like to shop. I learned a lot. The struggle is what makes you stronger. You know what you want and what you have to achieve, and every year I set a target for myself. Where do I see myself in five to 10 years? I need to plan ahead.

Where do you see yourself in five to 10 years?

Hopefully in 10 years I can retire! You do get burnt out. I was starting to get burnt out last year, because you constantly have to make new things. A lot of people say, in fashion shows, it’s all about your reputation. And you’re competing with all the international brands. So I tend to put a lot of pressure on myself — but I’ve started to let it go, and learned to delegate work.

Are you a control freak?

I am. I like to control everything. My production is in London — it could’ve been cheaper in China, but I’m worried about the quality. A customer in Riyadh could be trying on a gown and I don’t want her to think it doesn’t fit right. So with my factory in London, I know the quality is good, and I go there every week to check if the measurements are right.

Are you considered an Asian designer?

The way people have classified me is “Singapore-born, British-based.” No matter what, my roots are in Singapore, but I love competing on the world stage, it makes you work harder. I hate getting complacent and having nothing to do. I like to challenge myself every season.

What’s the Ashley Isham look?

Hillary Alexander, fashion editor of the Daily Telegraph, called me the “darling of drapery.” I’m known for draping. In St. Martins, you’re taught to drape on a stand, create a new silhouette. I’m known for my jersey and tailoring — I like women who are feminine, but strong at the same time. Hence the combination of soft draping with sharp tailoring. It’s the yin and yang thing.

What’s the design process like?

My inspiration mostly comes from the people around me. Even Jean Paul Gaultier goes to St. Tropez to people watch. You can find so much inspiration from what people are wearing on the street. Paul Smith, in his autobiography, said you can find inspiration everywhere you look, if you have an open mind.

For spring/summer ’09, my collection was inspired by Xanadu. It’s a bit trashy. I was just rummaging through my old DVDs. The film was about this guy who was a bit lost, and found a muse on roller skates. For autumn/winter, it’s inspired by Blade Runner. Three years ago, it was In the Mood for Love, my favorite film.

Did you have to sacrifice a lot to get where you are?

In college, my tutor once told me, “You have to live, breathe, eat, drink fashion. That’s your life.” I said, I don’t want this life then! I can’t do that, I’ll go crazy. He said I have to concentrate for five years, then another five to build the brand. There’s no time for moaning and traveling.

Now, I’m always traveling. But then it was very strange. After I graduated, I asked him why he only said that to me. He said, “Of all the students, I knew that you were the only one from your class who was going to make it. I knew that one day I will end up working for you.”

And...did he?

He works for me now.