Knit worth

Colorful, flirty tunics with yoked bodices — some of them studded with rhinestones, some festooned with tribal patterns — paired with fitted cropped pants started off Lulu Tan Gan’s show for Fashion Watch: cute separates that, given the exotic weaves and masculine tailoring, almost reference traditional Filipino shirting. Actually, they’re very reminiscent of the barong, which was Lulu’s inspiration for the first part of the show.

“I have been wanting to work on contemporary Filipino fashion for a while now and take inspiration from Filipino costumes, art and history rather than following the fashion dictates of the catwalk,” explains the designer, giving credence to the tribal patterns and barong details she abundantly used.

If the colors and intricate detailing aren’t appealing enough, bear in mind that these cheeky little separates are made of knit, the woven fabric that made Lulu Tan Gan who she is now. Pliable, figure-flattering, one-for-all-ages, travel-friendly knit. You can never go wrong with it. Which is probably why Tan Gan has stuck with the fabric all these years.

As with past collections, Tan Gan takes knit everywhere and to everyone: from mall route to lunch to cocktails, from the young, burgeoning (although self-possessed) fashionista to the more mature, style-adhering doyenne. She pairs bikini tops with uber-trendy drop-crotch pants, goes monochromatic with a flowy tube and metallic-threaded lounge pants, and comfortably puts together billowy tops with leggings (knit, of course).

While Tan Gan’s signature knit pieces are definitely worthy of second looks, it is her non-knit creations that gather the most interest: sheer cropped tulle jackets with rounded sleeves, sweet diaphanous vests and feminine, sheer overlays that are even prettier with ruffled sleeves, prominent beadwork and tribal-style embroidery. “Tulle is one material I like to work with. It was experimental to stone-bead it and have it worn just as a vest. It is also fun occasion wear. This is great for the younger fashionistas, who do not want to conform to stiff formal wear; very bohemian posh.” Tan Gan also appeases, uh, more rounded curves with ethereal silk chiffon tops with gathered folds.

Her combination of the native piña fabric and knit is also a sound, although difficult, decision, especially as she uses this pairing to give a more contemporary edge to traditional Filipiniana. “Design and technical-wise, it was a challenge trying to marry knits and piña!” Tan Gan confesses. She cites the difference in texture and construction of the two: piña is feather-light while knits are heavier in weight, piña floats while knits collapses. She had to get the right fall by using finer knits to mix well with the sheerness and crispness of piña. 

One of her last few pieces is a knitted tube dress with a frayed, multi-layered culotte skirt made of native, woven fabric. What could easily be a distressed day dress, she tops with detachable terno sleeves, hence an updated terno. The designer’s humorous take on her own design: “(It’s like) getting dressed in highstyle in less than a minute. No zippers, no buttons.” Her bridal gown option is also updated Filipiniana: a knitted halter gown in off-white dressed up with a lace-trimmed Maria Clara-style piña panuelo that cascades down the back into a voluminous train. Simple but effectual and very unique. And if you take in the knit aspect, very low-maintenance.

For inquiries and reservations for the Fashion Watch Quartet series, call Makati Shangri-La’s Restaurant Reservations and Information Center at 840-0884 or 813-8888 local 7588/7599.