From ‘sexy back’ to pure harlequin bliss

This year’s Philippine Fashion Week proved to be one of the most exciting, imaginative and avant-garde displays of Filipino craftsmanship and ingenuity in Philippine couture and ready-to-wear fashion. Staged by Runway Productions at the SMX Convention Center under the creative brains of executive producers Audie and Joey Espino, the designers strutted the runways alongside their Grecian-like males and muses, showcasing the best of the best of Manila’s burgeoning fashion industry and its expanding pool of creative talent. John and Paul Herrera. Kenneth Chua. Pier Lim. Twinkle Ferraren. Happy Andrada. Frederick Policarpio. John Guarnes. Tina Daniac. Apparent in these and other designers was a unique vantage point and a rare voice, set apart from the traditional, tried-and-tested methods of construction for evening wear, lingerie and even the Americana.

From Sampaguita star Bella Flores to Catholic images on traditional appliqués, designers took inspiration from just about everything. In particular, Kenneth Chua’s take on the Blessed Virgin Mother was a magnum opus of mystic renaissance. Happy Andrada’s use of neon hues, komiks and Pinoy Pop culture references radiated a daring and audacity in true Harajuku fashion. Others like John and Paul Herrera crafted an android collection that was masculine and dynamic, reminiscent of Jeff Koon’s “rabbit” sculpture and the Japanese Yakuza. Meanwhile, Jasmine Castelo brought “sexy back” to shoulder pads as she further accessorized her androgynous draperies and floral prints with the return of the platform shoes.

Over at Mars, Bang Pineda’s ASTIG collection delivered a deconstructed stroke of fashion genius, utilizing neon draperies and silvery tones for his take on futuristic men’s apparel. Frederick Policarpio’s MAN-ifesto line, on the other hand, gave a modern, Paul Smith twist to the man’s suit, further accentuated by bright and colorful footwear. Menswear maker Lyle Ibanez dared introduce the oversized bag to the virile male psyche while others like M Barreto and Jay Masangya focused their collections on hip, wearable pieces for the urban male. Manelle Chamian’s use of bandanas as pocket details for the blue jean also deserves a noteworthy two thumbs up.

With strong asymmetries and geometries, titillating silhouettes, layering and deconstruction, time traveling, and pure harlequin bliss, Philippine Fashion Week 2008 was able to highlight the evolving maxims and virtuosity of the Filipino fashion designer. As the Pinoy has become increasingly cosmopolitan, so has the character and ingenuity of our globalizing fashion industry, as shown in this Fashion Week. Textures were more refined. Detailing was more intricate. Ideas were more out-of-the-box. And overall zeal and presentation could have easily enshrined some of these collections on the Paris and New York runways. Move over Galliano, Juan de la Cruz has arrived!

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Catch your breath and let me know what you think at imcalledtoffee@mac.com.