Camiguin: Let the lanzones festival begin
At dusk, we came ashore, and the island refused to reveal much of itself. The sun was setting fast, but something about Camiguin remained luminous even in the darkness. Something about it inspires people to believe in fairy tales. Something about it keeps traditions alive. And that something had got me wanting to see more of this land and more of its life.
The sun rose the next day and I found sand on my feet. My friends and I were whisked off to a lone island where there was nothing but a lengthy stretch of white sand before us. This is the White Island, lying in the middle of coral-jeweled waters and facing the might of the mountains as the sun brings it warmth. You can swim here, as many do. But if you ask me, the best thing to do on White Island is to have breakfast!
Mornings on White Island are all about fish, the freshest fish for breakfast. A local favorite here is the mamsa. Served grilled, the fish’s meat is succulent and full of smoky flavor. Of course, it is best eaten with some vinegar and huge heaps of steamy rice.
From the White Island, I caught a glimpse of the lush panorama of the province. Most of Camiguin’s over 230 square kilometers of land are covered by mountains, which seem to stretch out to the Bohol Sea in the north, the Macajalar Bay in the west, the Gingoog Bay in the southeast, and the Butuan Bay in the east. Among these hills are volcanoes, which is perhaps why Camiguin is called the land born of fire. There are seven volcanoes found throughout the province, with one reportedly more active than the rest. The volcanic activity of Mt. Hibok-Hibok, said to be the only active volcano in Camiguin today, is monitored by the Philvocs Observatory Station set on top of the Payahan Hills in the town proper of Mambajao.
A trek up Mt. Hibok-Hibok will take you to its 1,250-meter slope, quite a challenge to climb. If you’re not up to the challenge, you can always take on the lower Old Volcano. The last time the Old Volcano erupted was back 1871. A trek through the Old Volcano will take you through the Via Cruzes, where you will see various life-size statues depicting scenes from the 14 Stations of the Cross that take you all the way uphill. Now back downhill, you can still spot some remnants of the 1871 eruption. Like the Catarman Church Ruins, whose thick walls are what remain today to remind all of the devastation of 1871. Another haunting reminder stands just a bit off the province’s shores and right out into the sea. There is a big white cross here, a landmark for the Sunken Cemetery that was part of the 1871 volcanic wreckage. You can take a boat to reach the cross itself, but for a really unique experience, you may take a diving trip into this eerie sunken wreckage.
Now, all that climbing and exploring must be tiring. So, how about cooling down? In Camiguin, you have a lot of cool options: the natural springs, swimming pools and waterfalls.
If you’re looking to have a cool dip, go to the Sto. Niño Cold Spring, Macao Cold Spring or the Bura Soda Water swimming pool. There’s also Katibawasan Falls or Tuasan Falls. Finally, for those who like their water warm, there are the Esperanza Ardent Hot Spring and Tangub Hot Spring. Cool!
Our visit to Camiguin was doubly auspicious because it was about to celebrate a fiesta. Welcoming us to the celebration was the festival man himself, Department of Tourism Region 10 Director Catalino E. Chan III. Chan is mighty proud of his province, not only because of its tourist sights but also because of its famous fruit. Lanzones may well be the fruit of the gods for the people of Camiguin. This precious fruit is round and plump with pale brown skin that opens up to reveal white translucent flesh bursting with juice and sweetness. Lanzones are picked around this time of year and for Chan, this harvest season calls for — what else? — a Lanzones Festival!
Director Chan started the Lanzones Festival 28 years ago. Since then, this five-day fiesta has grown to an all-day affair that includes beauty pageants, competitions and agricultural fairs. Of course, there was so much lanzones to be had, some of them even ended up in many of the people’s props and costumes for the street-dancing competition.
The street-dancing competition took to the streets of Mambajao, Camiguin’s capital, all day long. It featured eight groups, representing Camiguin’s five municipalities — Catarman, Sagay, Guinsiliban, Mahinog and Mambajao — as well as three high schools, namely Camiguin Polytechnic State College, Fatima College and Mambajao National High School. From the streets, the dancing made its way to the grandstand for a tableau presentation, where everyone (especially the winners) danced on and on and on.
Taking a little break from the festivities, it’s always a good idea to take a trip through the streets of Mambajao. You can venture around the markets where you can buy loads of sweet lanzones or go around the corner and try some of Vjandep’s famous pastel. Pastel is a simple bun baked with creamy yema filling. It has been a specialty of Vjandep bakeshop since 1990 and is now enjoyed not only in Camiguin but also in Cagayan de Oro and Metro Manila. Vjandep makes other baked treats, like the creamy, moist bibingka and peanut brittle, known in the province as pinato. These yummy goodies go well with a cup of hot cocoa from Maestrado. Maestrado sells pure chocolate nibs, which make for a good chocolaty drink. Another roadside snack favorite here is the kiping, a thin crisp cracker made of cassava flour and laced with caramelized sugar.
If you are looking for an easy, breezy lunch, you might want to go over to Bahay-Bakasyunan sa Camiguin, This resort by the Bohol Sea is just a few minutes’ drive from the town proper and offers sumptuous meals by its terrace restaurant every day. Other places which also offer a good seaside stay and dining experience are the Paras Beach Resort, Club Marina, Marina Bay Resort and Coral Dive Resort. But if you just want to stay somewhere quiet near the town proper, Villa Paraiso Apartelle is just perfect for you.
Needless to say, evenings in Camiguin are best enjoyed by the sea. Head off to Secret Cove Beach Resort and try its specialties like its carbonara, Geschenetzeltes, Chicken Cordon Bleu, pizzas, homemade yogurt — plain or with honey — and signature desserts like blueberry apple pie and mango cheesecake.
Meanwhile, you can stay uplands at the Camiguin Highland Resort. Set in a 10-hectare property, the place overlooks the province of Camiguin and is surrounded by coconut trees, banana trees and, of course, lanzones trees. If you like, Camiguin Highland Resort will even let you pick your own lanzones from its plantation. Go ahead and grab those luscious lanzones from the trees by the kilo!
Morning came and we had to bid Camiguin goodbye. For the last time, the island showed off its radiance as we sailed off its shores. Basking in the sunlight, Camiguin’s fairy-tale beauty will forever be etched in my mind.
* * *
E-mail the author at ravin.facts@yahoo.com.
