The Chosen One
December 5, 2003 | 12:00am
Intense is a word rarely used to describe a makeup artist. But for Kakuyasu Uchiide, Shu Uemura’s chief makeup artist, it is a description that lasts beyond the first impression. You can sense this reserved intensity in the way he intently studies his subject’s face before applying makeup, hear it when he articulates his thoughts in his native Japanese, feel it in the Shu Uemura Mode Makeup collections that he has helped promote and conceptualize. You can even glimpse this intensity in the laugh lines that appear at the sides of his eyes, telltale signs of a man who appreciates the value of mirth.
Kakuyasu Uchiide is intense, a trait that has earned him the enviable position he now claims. At 37, he has merited more than anyone in the company’s fifty—year history. Fifteen years he has spent with Shu Uemura. Ten of those years has seen him being edified as protégé to the maquillage master himself. In the Shu Uemura hierarchy where Uemura is the all-omnipotent creator, Kakuyasu is the Jesus Christ, the visible right-hand man, one of the elite few in the know.
His makeup demonstration during the workshop to launch the brand in the Philippines last year fascinated beauty editors and Shu Uemura’s fans. His technique is a déjà vu experience of early century Pointilism – delicate daubs and dots to make up smears. His art, a geometric kaleidoscope of color, face paint that combines serene Zen with playful animé slashes.
The fascination carried with it whispers. People gritted out the sixty-four million dollar question. Is Kakuyasu Uchiide, Shu Uemura’s chosen one, straight? As a chopstick.
YSTYLE: How did you start out with Shu Uemura?
KAKUYASU UCHIIDE: At first, after graduating from college, I wanted to pursue fashion. This was in 1998 and this was the time when Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Commes des Garcon were becoming renowned worldwide. I also realized that cosmetics-wise Shu Uemura was on the same level as Yohji. At that time, Mr. Shu Uemura was also making bags and was also into the restaurant business. I figured that if I join a company like that then maybe I can do fashion.
How did you feel when you ended up doing makeup instead?
When I first started with Shu Uemura, I had no interest in makeup. Everything changed when I met Mr. Shu Uemura. When you come face to face with somebody like him, a creator like him, your thinking changes. I realized that I want to walk the same path that Mr. Shu Uemura is walking. I want to become like him.
Have you forgotten about your passion for fashion?
No, I haven’t forgotten about fashion. But makeup is also art and it is also connected to fashion if you look at it from a practical point—of—view. When you think about how you look, beauty and trends, fashion is also at the back of your mind.
Describe a typical day in your life.
If I’m not on an international trip or a PR event, I spend most of my day in the creation of products and concepts especially now that Shu Uemura has so much to do to fulfil all that we have in our marketing plan. I have to be a part of conceptualizing everything from the makeup to the tools to the brushes, and making these practical for all of us to use.
What activities do you engage in when you’re not working?
Most of the things I do outside of work has nothing to do with work. One thing that I used to do as a child, and I’m now getting back into is fishing…
Deep—sea fishing?
No. Lake fishing. It allows me to get out of the Tokyo urban life and just be one with nature and just relax. I also have my Playstation and I watch a lot of movies on DVD.
Do you sometimes feel that women date you to get free makeup?
No… I’ve been with someone for ten years.
Do you always put makeup on your partner i.e. the lucky girl?
I haven’t really done her makeup for an event or a party. What I do though is, when I want to try out a new color, I try the make—up on her just to see how the color looks when applied.
How does it feel to be a straight man working in an industry pervaded by either women or gay men?
Being a minority is a good thing – it allows me to stand out. The thing is Mr. Uemura is very straight and all the atelier’s makeup artists are straight and that’s probably the tradition we’re following. Although I also welcome working with gay men because they have their own creativity and their contribution gives a good balance.
Do you really believe that women need to wear makeup to become beautiful?
There are a lot of women who don’t really need makeup when you’re talking about just putting it on. At Shu Uemura it’s all about looking at a woman and thinking of how we can help her reach her optimum beauty, how to make her look even more beautiful. Makeup is not skincare; skincare is part of makeup so you do need it (makeup) to an extent. The amount of makeup needed to reach optimum beauty varies per person. Our job is to help women know how much they need to reach that beauty. It’s not just about putting on everything we have. And beautiful makeup starts with beautiful skin. That’s the Shu Uemura philosophy.
What is your personal favorite of the Shu Uemura skincare products?
The cleansing oils and the Dep Sea Therapy Moisture Recovery line (to be launched worldwide in January -YStyle). We’ve taken our Dep Sea water and created an entire skin line from that. The base water is so pure that it helps retain moisture. No matter how many times I use this product, it never fails to amaze me.
What inspires you?
Getting to travel to different places is one source of inspiration. I also read a lot. I read everything from tabloid magazines to philosophy books and I get inspiration from all these. I’m also inspired by words. A word will come to my head and ideas will just begin to come.
What’s your favorite travel destination?
Paris. There’s something about the air there – it’s very creative. In Tokyo it’s hard to really think because there are so many things going on. In Paris though, I can think of so many different things when I walk its streets. Walking down the streets of Paris is calming in a way. Another place is Southeast Asia. I wish I can come here and not have to work. I’ve been to Southeast Asia so many times but it’s always for work but there’s still something about it that calms me–I really can’t express it in a word.
How often do you travel for pleasure?
I never really get to travel for pleasure. My girlfriend is the first person I would travel with but she doesn’t have a passport. She refuses to get one. In ten years, we’ve never travelled abroad. We only travel within Japan.
Of all the beautiful faces you’ve applied makeup on, whose is the face that you can’t forget?
Last May, Charlotte Gainesbourg, the daughter of singer Serge Gainesbourg and actress Jane Birkin, came to Japan for the premiere of her director-husband’s film. I was asked to do her makeup. The thing is we didn’t have much time and I had to, literally, do her makeup in five minutes. I just put on a little foundation, lipstick, and a little eyeshadow and she carried it of so well. Seeing her in front of the camera looking so perfect even with so little makeup on was so memorable. Do you see yourself getting old with Shu Uemura?
I don’t know if I want to be doing this forever. There have been other people chosen to train under Mr. Shu Uemura since I was picked to do this ten years ago but I’m the only one who has lasted to this day…I want to do this until I’ve reached the limit of my creativity. I want to enjoy myself until I’ve reached the end of my creativity. Who knows when that will be?
What’s the one lipstick color any woman, regardless of age or skin color, can wear?
Red. It’s the one color that has survived trends; it’s the one color that has always been there. It’s the one color that I like to see on a woman’s lips.
Kakuyasu Uchiide is intense, a trait that has earned him the enviable position he now claims. At 37, he has merited more than anyone in the company’s fifty—year history. Fifteen years he has spent with Shu Uemura. Ten of those years has seen him being edified as protégé to the maquillage master himself. In the Shu Uemura hierarchy where Uemura is the all-omnipotent creator, Kakuyasu is the Jesus Christ, the visible right-hand man, one of the elite few in the know.
His makeup demonstration during the workshop to launch the brand in the Philippines last year fascinated beauty editors and Shu Uemura’s fans. His technique is a déjà vu experience of early century Pointilism – delicate daubs and dots to make up smears. His art, a geometric kaleidoscope of color, face paint that combines serene Zen with playful animé slashes.
The fascination carried with it whispers. People gritted out the sixty-four million dollar question. Is Kakuyasu Uchiide, Shu Uemura’s chosen one, straight? As a chopstick.
YSTYLE: How did you start out with Shu Uemura?
KAKUYASU UCHIIDE: At first, after graduating from college, I wanted to pursue fashion. This was in 1998 and this was the time when Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Commes des Garcon were becoming renowned worldwide. I also realized that cosmetics-wise Shu Uemura was on the same level as Yohji. At that time, Mr. Shu Uemura was also making bags and was also into the restaurant business. I figured that if I join a company like that then maybe I can do fashion.
How did you feel when you ended up doing makeup instead?
When I first started with Shu Uemura, I had no interest in makeup. Everything changed when I met Mr. Shu Uemura. When you come face to face with somebody like him, a creator like him, your thinking changes. I realized that I want to walk the same path that Mr. Shu Uemura is walking. I want to become like him.
Have you forgotten about your passion for fashion?
No, I haven’t forgotten about fashion. But makeup is also art and it is also connected to fashion if you look at it from a practical point—of—view. When you think about how you look, beauty and trends, fashion is also at the back of your mind.
Describe a typical day in your life.
If I’m not on an international trip or a PR event, I spend most of my day in the creation of products and concepts especially now that Shu Uemura has so much to do to fulfil all that we have in our marketing plan. I have to be a part of conceptualizing everything from the makeup to the tools to the brushes, and making these practical for all of us to use.
What activities do you engage in when you’re not working?
Most of the things I do outside of work has nothing to do with work. One thing that I used to do as a child, and I’m now getting back into is fishing…
Deep—sea fishing?
No. Lake fishing. It allows me to get out of the Tokyo urban life and just be one with nature and just relax. I also have my Playstation and I watch a lot of movies on DVD.
Do you sometimes feel that women date you to get free makeup?
No… I’ve been with someone for ten years.
Do you always put makeup on your partner i.e. the lucky girl?
I haven’t really done her makeup for an event or a party. What I do though is, when I want to try out a new color, I try the make—up on her just to see how the color looks when applied.
How does it feel to be a straight man working in an industry pervaded by either women or gay men?
Being a minority is a good thing – it allows me to stand out. The thing is Mr. Uemura is very straight and all the atelier’s makeup artists are straight and that’s probably the tradition we’re following. Although I also welcome working with gay men because they have their own creativity and their contribution gives a good balance.
Do you really believe that women need to wear makeup to become beautiful?
There are a lot of women who don’t really need makeup when you’re talking about just putting it on. At Shu Uemura it’s all about looking at a woman and thinking of how we can help her reach her optimum beauty, how to make her look even more beautiful. Makeup is not skincare; skincare is part of makeup so you do need it (makeup) to an extent. The amount of makeup needed to reach optimum beauty varies per person. Our job is to help women know how much they need to reach that beauty. It’s not just about putting on everything we have. And beautiful makeup starts with beautiful skin. That’s the Shu Uemura philosophy.
What is your personal favorite of the Shu Uemura skincare products?
The cleansing oils and the Dep Sea Therapy Moisture Recovery line (to be launched worldwide in January -YStyle). We’ve taken our Dep Sea water and created an entire skin line from that. The base water is so pure that it helps retain moisture. No matter how many times I use this product, it never fails to amaze me.
What inspires you?
Getting to travel to different places is one source of inspiration. I also read a lot. I read everything from tabloid magazines to philosophy books and I get inspiration from all these. I’m also inspired by words. A word will come to my head and ideas will just begin to come.
What’s your favorite travel destination?
Paris. There’s something about the air there – it’s very creative. In Tokyo it’s hard to really think because there are so many things going on. In Paris though, I can think of so many different things when I walk its streets. Walking down the streets of Paris is calming in a way. Another place is Southeast Asia. I wish I can come here and not have to work. I’ve been to Southeast Asia so many times but it’s always for work but there’s still something about it that calms me–I really can’t express it in a word.
How often do you travel for pleasure?
I never really get to travel for pleasure. My girlfriend is the first person I would travel with but she doesn’t have a passport. She refuses to get one. In ten years, we’ve never travelled abroad. We only travel within Japan.
Of all the beautiful faces you’ve applied makeup on, whose is the face that you can’t forget?
Last May, Charlotte Gainesbourg, the daughter of singer Serge Gainesbourg and actress Jane Birkin, came to Japan for the premiere of her director-husband’s film. I was asked to do her makeup. The thing is we didn’t have much time and I had to, literally, do her makeup in five minutes. I just put on a little foundation, lipstick, and a little eyeshadow and she carried it of so well. Seeing her in front of the camera looking so perfect even with so little makeup on was so memorable. Do you see yourself getting old with Shu Uemura?
I don’t know if I want to be doing this forever. There have been other people chosen to train under Mr. Shu Uemura since I was picked to do this ten years ago but I’m the only one who has lasted to this day…I want to do this until I’ve reached the limit of my creativity. I want to enjoy myself until I’ve reached the end of my creativity. Who knows when that will be?
What’s the one lipstick color any woman, regardless of age or skin color, can wear?
Red. It’s the one color that has survived trends; it’s the one color that has always been there. It’s the one color that I like to see on a woman’s lips.
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