It’s Raining Trenchcoats

Dear Rissa,

I really love your column and I really love your style. That is why I think that you are the perfect person to help me in my dilemma. You see, trench coats are really popular these days and I’d really like to wear one. I was wondering if you could give me some tips on how I could wear one and how and what clothes I should wear it with. Also, can you tell me what body types suit trench coats and what style suits each body type. Please tell me also where I can get a good trench coat. Thank you so much for your help. — Stellarmeeshl

Dear Stellarmeeshl,

The trench coat is indeed becoming pretty popular again especially during this cold and rainy season. In the 20th century, the civilian version of a World War I soldier’s coat became known as a trench coat. But when made of lightweight wool or cotton mix, it is worn as a raincoat or topcoat.

It all began with Thomas Burberry, a country draper. He developed a water- and wind-proof fabric based on the close weave and loose style of an agricultural smock. This cotton cloth he later called gabardine. His first raincoat went on sale in the 1890’s.

Originally designed for field sports, the garment was used by officers in the trenches of the First World War and was dubbed as the "trench coat." Many of the original features, from epaulettes and button-down storm flaps to the buckled cuff straps and the metal D-rings, still appear on the coat today.

When it comes to trench coats, perhaps the first thing you can consider is length. The most versatile length is one that falls just above the knee. It works with most figure types and you can easily wear it with long or short skirts as well as with pants. It also looks just as right for evening as it does for day.

The second choice, especially if you’re tall, is a long coat which falls just slightly above the ankle. But if you’re petite yet desire for a long coat, choose one that falls just below the midcalf.

Here are some things to keep in mind in looking for right coat:

• A modern coat should never be too formal.

• Function comes first. Keep your climate in mind when choosing the weight of the coat.

• A coat should button high at the neck for warmth but look equally good unbuttoned.

• The best coat is multifunctional and works just as well over pants and skirts as it does over dresses.

• Buy the best fabric you can afford. It should be soft and supple to keep you looking slim and shapely.

• A coat should be cut to look smart when fully open.

• Sleeves should be long, preferably to just below the wrist bone.

• A zip-out lining gives a coat greater visibility, but watch out for bulkiness when you belt it.

• The best wrap either falls straight or tapers slightly to the hem.

• If ever, shoulder pads should be as small as possible. Remember, you’ll be layering your coat over jackets, sweaters, or other clothing.

For those different body types, here are some figure fixers and fashion tips to help you on your hunt for that dream trench coat or jacket and what to wear with it.

If you want to shrink a large bottom or hide those hips...

• Select a jacket that falls past the derriere. Fingertip length is a good guideline.

• Choose a variety of loosely fitted or flared styles, such as the straight or a-line jacket to camouflage heaviness.

• Opt for jackets with well-shaped shoulders to balance the torso. Details that bring the eye up, like epaulettes, can really help.

• Slash or diagonal pockets can trim inches off your hips. Leave them sewn up for a smoother, flatter line. Avoid patch or cuffed pockets.

• If your waistline is very small and completely out of proportion to your hips, avoid belted waists. It will only make your hips look larger.

• Don’t pair your jackets with bold patterns or bright colors for skirts and pants — you’ll only draw more attention to your lower torso. Remember, dark colors make heavy areas look smaller.

• Don’t stop experimenting with tops. Use them to draw attention upward and flatter your face.

If you’re top-heavy...

• Opt for single-breasted styles.

• You can go for collarless jackets. Small to medium collars are okay. Avoid breast pockets. The less detail on your bust, the less attention you’ll attract to it.

• Make sure your jacket can be worn comfortably closed or open.

• Go for a dark color or thin vertical strip patterns to downplay size. Avoid waist-cinching styles that emphasize what’s on top.

• Your best fabrics are flat, like jerseys and crepes. Those with dimension like mohair and wool visually increase in size.

• A tight sweater is your worst enemy. The best is a light top worn with a dark bottom.

• Do spend as much time finding the right bra. It can make a world of difference.

If you’re petite and want to look taller...

• Choose a coat that falls above the knee or if you desire a long one, just below the midcalf.

• Keep your trouser legs slim and straight to help create the illusion of height.

• Avoid wide-legged pants and full skirts.

• Don’t wear cuffed trousers. Even a small cuff can cut your height.

• Slingback shoes, a low vamp, and a pointed rather than a rounded toe will also elongate your legs.

• Avoid wearing skirts below the knee. They only cut you in half.

For the tall, thin and lanky girl who desires curves...

• Choose skirts, pants and jackets that tie softly at the waist. The gentle gathering creates the illusion of a waistline. A belted trench coat would be a good suggestion.

• But keep in mind that you should avoid tight belts. Your best bet is the belt that lies easily and loosely on your hips.

• A trench coat can work well for women with small busts because of the storm flaps across the chest. With your figure, you can get away with other details like ruffles, wide bertha collars and chest pockets. Visual trimmings like these on the bust lend visual impact.

• A thin person can also experiment with layering. Wearing sweaters over shirts or blouses and jackets over your tops and dresses help give a fuller look.

Now that you know what to look for in a trench coat, your next question is where you can find it. There are a lot of stores that carry trench coats or even a modified version of it. Some no longer have every original detail but have added new twists, be it a striped pattern or unique sleeve cuff. In my favorite pastime (shopping!), I spotted some trench coats of varying prices. Here are some stores to check out: Burberry, MIX, Linea Italia, A/X, The Black Shop and Anonymous.

If you’re on a limited budget, here’s another option for you: ukay-ukay. I have a lot of friends who have revealed that their fave coat was bought in bargain places like ukay-ukay. Then I have some already asking their Baguio friends to get them a trench coat as pasalubong!

When shopping in flea markets, just make sure to check seams, linings, buttons (make sure they’re complete!) and attachment points very carefully to distinguish the great from the pretenders. Wear and tear you can’t deny since you’re looking at possibly second-hand goods.

Wherever you choose to buy your coat, make sure you come home with one you’re happy with, ideally one of good quality, craftsmanship, price, and above all, fit. Remember, a well-cut jacket can conceal most figure challenges!

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For more on fashion, catch the latest trends, designers and models on Fashion TV every Monday night, 10:30 p.m. on ABC-5. For more on beauty and shopping, check out The Kikay Machine, daily on Juice TV (Home 42, Destiny 47, Dream 16 at 8-10 a.m., 8-10 p.m., 2-4 a.m., and on ZOE 11 every Saturday and Sunday 8-9 p.m.) For your questions and comments, e-mail me at rissa_samson@yahoo.com.