Macao, with glimpses of the past

MANILA, Philippines - Back when international holiday travel was a blessing enjoyed only by a lucky few, Hong Kong was the usual destination – the food was superb and the shopping choices were like no other.

Some though would escape – take a day trip – to the nearby small sleepy town of Macao, Portugal’s last bastion in the East, perhaps to try their luck at the Lisboa casino, hunt for antiques or maybe bring some Lord Stow’s egg tarts to share. No matter what the colony had to offer, it was usually just an afterthought.

But the tiny tranquil settlement has developed into a huge sprawling metropolis, its size ever increasing due to continuous reclamation. Macao is part of the Pearl River Delta, China’s bustling urban sprawl that includes the manufacturing centers of Shenzhen and Guangzhou. With all its palatial infrastructure in place – multi-starred hotels, fabulous casinos, restaurants of all flavors and styles, eye-popping shows and top of the line shops, Macao has become a prime attraction in the global tourism arena.

And yet – in sincere homage to their history and heritage, culture and tradition – the rustic estates, picturesque landscapes and the revered areas have been preserved and remain as mint as they can be. I was thoroughly surprised. The stark contrast harmoniously blends constant progress and old customs.

A result of trade and cultural exchanges between the East and the West which spanned some 400 years, Macao is the oldest and most comprehensive display of European influence in Chinese territory. The historic center of Macao has, in fact, been inscribed as a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO.

We started our ideal mosey at the A-Ma Temple, in the southwestern section of town. Touted as the most ancient shrine and the longest surviving building in Macao – it existed way before the city was born – it presently contains valuable historical artifacts.

Right after you enter, be ready for the multi-layered steps to the Gate Pavilion and the Memorial Arch. Once inside, incense permeates within their own little sanctuaries throughout the Prayer Hall, the Hall of Benevolence, the Hall of Guanyin and the Buddhist Pavilion.

Confused? Please don’t be. These different sections are dedicated to different deities, which makes the whole zone an accurate depiction of the several religious beliefs that hold sway here. Harmony and co-existence served part of the lessons we learned during our stay.

Our next destination was the Mandarin’s House, a misnomer, apparently, for it actually consists of a compound with multiple courtyard houses and was the former residence of the famous Chinese literary thinker Zheng Guanying of the late Qing Dynasty of China.

What caught my attention were the interiors decorated in the traditional style, fused with foreign elements, characterized by multiple variations of timber windows superimposed on mother-of-pearl panels, the Indian-style ceiling and iconic roofs, and the distinct use of grey bricks against arched ornamentations.

As we moved to a quiet enclave, we reached St. Lawrence’s Church. It is one of the oldest in Macao, a triumvirate that includes St. Dominic’s and St. Anthony’s. Though originally built in the 1600s, the white-yellow neoclassical structure in its present form was reconstructed in 1846. The exteriors exuded a Baroque influence, as the grandiosity of the inside is undeniable. Since this was our very first visit to this particular church, we resorted to our personal formula of litanies for good luck.

The Dom Pedro V Theater was built to commemorate King Pedro V of Portugal, nicknamed The Hopeful, who sought the modernization of Portuguese state and infrastructure. It was the first Western-style theater in China, which could comfortably seat 300 people. Originally used by the Macanese for important public events and functions, today it is a venue for staging plays and concerts.

A few blocks away was the Sir Robert Ho Tung Library. During the turn of the century, its namesake, a wealthy Hong Kong businessman, purchased the building and transformed it as his personal summer villa. When he passed on in the 1950s, the lovely home was donated – per his will – to the Macao government as a public library, which continues till today.

Down a stretch of road, we stood before the iconic Senado Square, which has been widely considered the center and heart of urban life for many centuries. It is the main go-to place, and hosts numerous festivities.

Across is the Leal Senado Building – Macao’s first and oldest-running municipal chamber – which has several pocket gardens with romantic fountains, various murals brought to life by blue and white tiles and artistic iron grill work as mini-gates.

How can one miss the nearby square paved with wave-like black and white cobblestones to accentuate the brightness of the surrounding old heritage buildings?

Though a little bit out of our way, we could not fail to drop by The Cathedral, built in 1622, and widely regarded as the most important Catholic Church in Macao. The simple facade –in Shanghai plaster, exuding a monolithic yet subdued appearance – is formed by rectangular columns and twin belfries which stand out.

Interesting to note that underneath the altar are relics of bishops from the 16th and 17th centuries, and makes the place of worship a center for those who wish to pay their respects. Stained glass windows give it a classic look.

We then decided to drop by the Casa Garden, acclaimed as the finest villa, the summer residence of Portuguese aristocracy and politicians.

At a later period, it was rented out to the powerful East India Company and then converted into a museum in the 1960s. It now houses the headquarters of the Oriental Foundation, an organization which carries out cultural, social and educational pursuits to maintain close links between Macao and Portugal.

As we continued our journey into history, we went by the Old City Walls. A testament to its defense infrastructure, this surviving segment was built in 1569 and served as a reminder of the dividing of the world between Spain and Portugal.

These protective enclosures were imbued with a local material called Chunambo – a solid compound, a mixture of clay, soil, rice straw, crushed rocks and oyster shells – and crafted with traditional techniques native to the region.

To end the day of discovery, we climbed Mount Fortress, an enclosure that served as an additional security feature of days gone by. Erected between 1617 and 1626 in conjunction with the Jesuits, the fortress spans an area of 10,000 square meters and was the heart of the Macanese defense network. It is equipped with huge cannons, protective barracks, water wells and an expansive arsenal with claims to have enough ammunition and supplies to outlast a two-year-long siege.

Once the official home of the governor of Macao, today it serves as a museum and boasts a panoramic view of the symbolic ruins of St. Paul’s and the entirety of Macao. We looked out at the expanse with a renewed appreciation of the background and lore behind the whole dominion that we experienced one day, not too long ago.