Memories of Valladolid and Segovia

While visiting the present, I stumbled on its storied past and my life hasn’t been the same since.

At Valladolid in Spain, a city two hours from Madrid, art and culture make an inseparable couple beguiling us to explore. Right in the heart of the Autonomous Region of Castilla y León, the city is surrounded by the provinces of León, Zamora, Salamanca, Ávila, Segovia, Soria, Burgos and Palencia. Here in Valladolid, a deep historic legacy exists as epitomized by its many castles, palaces, mansions, routes, Roman bridges — each of them witnesses to very important events. 

This charming city and its vicinity awed our group of international journalists. The largest city of Castilla y León, it is a city known for its class, sophistication and architectural diversity. Here, culture and art crowd its narrow streets and every corner. The Plaza del Coso, dating to medieval times and declared of historical interest, continues hosting bullfights while traditions like Domingo de Resurrection are celebrated. Gastronomy is also a highlight of Valladolid, as you can taste the exquisite lamb baked with the best wines of the area.

We visited a winery called Yllera, one of the fine wineries located along the outskirts of the city. We had the opportunity to meet the owner Marcos Ylera, a sixth-generation wine producer who explained to us the different bodegas and the variety of vineyards in Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Toro. The Yllera family controls these areas where they make high-quality wines with unique personalities. The Yleras, together with an oenologist from “La Rioja,” Ramón Martinez, own Grupo Yllera.

As we made our way around the labyrinth of tunnels, we could smell the fragrance of roasting meat. Marcos said that it was the roast lamb that had been baking for a long time that was to be our lunch, and what a lunch it was! For starters, we had delicious potato croquettes with béchamel sauce, followed by fresh green salad and finally the sumptuous, fall-off-the-bone lamb. Over this hearty lunch, he told us how his uncle and father used to peddle wines around the area and how these were stored in leather bags. It was only in the ‘70s that bottles began to be used.

Marcos shared that as the years went by, more modern winemaking facilities were purchased and the actual winery is located a few hundred meters from the old cellars whose temperature is a constant 15°C whether it is summer or winter. There was also a wine tasting room where a selection of their produce could be sampled along with the different cheeses and cured meats that the area is known for. 

After the wine tasting, we continued our tour of Valladolid. It is a city that has not just changed superficially but has renovated its spirit and radically changed its attitude. The spirit of artistic avant-garde exists everywhere you look. The best scenic fairs that convert the city into an authentic monographic show are evident throughout the entire year.

It was interesting to learn that Valladolid played a prominent role in the history of Spain. It was here that King Fernando and Queen Isabel married in 1469 and it served as the venue of the Spanish Court on several occasions during the Middle and Modern Ages. It was also a meeting point for explorers, such as Fernando de Magallanes who came here to discuss their navigation plans. Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, resided here and it’s also where Christopher Columbus died. Also born in Valladolid were prominent and known people like King Philip II, and famous writers José Zorrilla and Miguel Delibes.

Today, it is the largest city in Castilla y León with a population of around 304,000 inhabitants. It has an extensive network of roads, good services and a lively atmosphere with plenty of artistic and cultural activities. It is a perfect place for shopping as well as relaxing with plenty of charming cafés, terraces and excellent hotels.

Valladolid has a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers; its average temperatures throughout the year are 16°C with a low of 6°C, minimum. It is not a very rainy region, rain being more frequent in autumn and spring.

From Valladolid, we proceeded to Segovia and fell in love with our hotel Eurostar’s Convento Capuchinos, which used to be a monastery from 1637 when the convent was founded. The edifice was confiscated and used as a barracks in 1836 during which property and goods were expropriated to the Catholic Church. The capuchins abandoned the site after which the building was taken for military purposes and used as artillery storage.

In 1929, the building was taken over by the oblate nuns and used as juvenile homes. This five-star hotel came into existence only last year and the modern rooms were tastefully combined with the original arched windows and ceilings — a masterful blend of the old and the new.

The major highlights of Segovia include the amazing 15-kilometer aqueduct with the most famous exposed 2.5-kilometer portion that rises 28 meters.  Built with 22,500 huge blocks of stone masterfully placed, without the use of adhesives it has remained intact for almost 2,000 years. It is the most impressive monument in Segovia, an example of the boldness and example of everlasting firmness and roman architecture.

In the shadow of the aqueduct is the historic Candido restaurant where we had the most delicious cuchinillo that was so tender that the maître d’ cut it with a plate. We had a thick and hearty legumes soup, and for that sweet ending — a sumptuous dessert of lemon ice cream and with a filling of custard sponge, drizzled with chocolate.

We also visited the Alcazar, the fortress said to have inspired Disney World’s Sleeping Beauty castle. Like precocious kids, we raced towards the huge fortress that guards the city like a gargantuan sentinel. We marveled at the views of the surroundings and the city that hovered below. Within these hollowed halls of the Alcazar, you can stand in the same spot where Christopher Columbus received from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella his commission for his expeditions.

We toured the ancient city of Segovia and admired the UNESCO heritage sites that are the jewels of this destination. The Cathedral in late gothic style, known as the “Dame of Gothic Cathedrals,” was built from 1525 onwards on the site of a precious temple destroyed during the Comuneros War. The 105-meter-long sanctuary emanates with the feeling of tranquility and artistry. Illuminated by resplendent stained glass windows, amazing sculptures, artworks and altars decorate the cathedral’s 18 chapels, which are closed by grills. Ingenuously crafted marble, jasper and a bronze altar front a 14th-century ivory figure of the Virgen de la Paz. We discovered the Archive Room that preserves more than 500 antique books, including the Sinodal de Aguilafuente, the first book ever printed in Spain. We were also amazed by the choir in the middle of the church that actually separated the rich people attending the Mass from the less fortunate who stood behind the church. This was the practice in the past, shared our tour guide.

These precious finds will forever be ingrained in our hearts and minds. How can one forget the many churches, convents and palaces that can be visited in the historic city center? They reflect a storied past that makes one yearn to know more.

In Valladolid and Segovia, there is so much to see, feel and taste.  Experiencing visits to these structures of living museums is the best education one can have.  After all, the best memories we have are the ones we relive over and over.

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For more information, visit www.turismocastillayleon.com or call 0034-902203030. Many thanks to Spain Tourism Board  (Singapore office) and Junta de Castilla y Leon, call +65 67373008.

Turkish Airlines flies every day to Istanbul from Manila. Take a connecting flight to Madrid for more information visit www.turkishairlines.com.

Email the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.