Beguiled by Botswana

If you haven’t found something worth dying for, you haven’t truly lived.”

That has been my philosophy ever since I discovered the traveler in me. My wanderlust for exotic travel has allowed me to find what I have long sought for. This profound satisfaction is much better experienced than explained. At the end of it all, if someone asked how I died, the better question would be how did I live? I lived to explore the world and am ready to die a thousand deaths just to experience these destinations more.

In Botswana, I found life anew. The country has an arresting charm that emanates from the call of the wild, where you find yourself nearest to  the African heartbeat and at the center of a world that has not altered much since life first began.

Upon the invitation of Asia to Africa Safaris, which has been customizing luxury arrangements to the African wilderness since 2002, my dear friend Cheryl Tiu and I discovered the beauty and authenticity of Botswana. The once-in-a-lifetime experiences offered by Asia to Africa Safaris, owned by former investment bankers Victor Dizon and Jose Cortes, epitomize the nirvana of travel journeys. For this particular trip, their strategic partner was Wilderness Safaris, based in Botswana for 30 years. Wilderness Safaris value sustainability, where the unspoiled African landscape embraces you as you bask in your own private villas in the wildlife sanctuary.

Botswana acquired its independence from Britain in 1966 and thereafter, stumbled on three of the world’s richest diamond mines. This paradisiacal country is a largely isolated wilderness situated beyond the narrow eastern corridor. With its dramatic deserts, wetlands, saltpans and savannahs, wildlife connoisseurs in search of the untamed Africa gravitate here.

In this paradise you will find the Okavango Delta, the largest inland wetland in the world covering an area the size of Switzerland. The Okavango River, which forms part of the Great African rift, flows uninterrupted over a thousand kilometers from its source.

We flew over the mighty Zambia and Chobe River that connects to each other. The most famous creatures here are undoubtedly the elephants — enormous herds that constitute one of the last continuous populations of the continent. Spreading throughout Zimbabwe to  Northern Botswana, they migrate 200 kilometers up and down the river congregating en masse during the dry season.

Our unforgettable experiences in four luxurious accommodations namely Kings Pool, Savuti, Duma Tau and Abu Camps taught Cheryl and me to expect the unexpected. We were in shock as we saw a huge elephant, flapping its ears, as it swiftly approached us from the thicket. Our guide calmly informed us there was no need to panic because when the ears of the elephant move this way, it’s just a warning. The actual charge will take place without the flapping of the ears. A  giant hippo also stared at Cheryl as she came out from the bathroom in the wilderness.  I was sipping my Amarula cream liqueur while stargazing under the vast sky when Cheryl animatedly shared her experience. I can never forget how the baboons trampled on our “star-bed,” where guests can spend the night under the canopy of stars while the animals like the elephant, hippos, rhinos, leopard, giraffe and even spotted hyenas patrol the grounds. You are comfortably perched on the elevated “star-bed,” within safe distance, but also close enough to appreciate them. The baboons gamely took over our comfortable treetop “star-bed” after we left that dawn. They must have envied us that evening that they immediately took our place that morning. They probably even wanted to be served breakfast-in-bed. Talk about living life for some insane moments.

As I relaxed in my ultra-luxurious suite in Kings Pool Camp by the Linyanti River, I watched the hippos and crocodiles swim past like domesticated pets. I smiled and realized some creatures are better to be left alone to simply be who they are in their territory. We humans, after all, are the spectators in the wilderness where animals reign supreme. As responsible stewards of nature, we respect, conserve and preserve their existence in as much as they do for us. 

I am humbled by the sounds of nature that awaken me from my sleep. The hippopotamus snorts in the water while the elephant scrunches its feet on the dry leaves. The lion roars amidst the gazelle’s graceful pitter-patter footsteps outside our luxury camp. And as life beckons in every corner of the jungle, death complements this life that exists side by side. The vultures that perch themselves on the leafless, once deciduous trees, await every carcass and animal cadaver. They are the cleaning agents of the great eco-system and seemingly pray for their prey before devouring them.

We spotted a lifeless elephant and viewed the hyenas that nibbled on its flesh. It was a painful sight to witness but this is the balance of creation. Life and death must co-exist or one would not appreciate the meaning and fulfillment of each other.

The African sunset is a stunning thing to witness. As I gazed outside my window, in my periphery, I spotted the glance of an elephant in the water. I slowly walked out to the wooden deck and observed the leviathan animal emerge from the water as we locked gazes. Its droopy eyes and the wrinkles on its pachyderm skin possessed an endearing charm.

We passed by Savuti Camp located on the Savute Channel,  a vanishing river that reappeared in 2008. With this phenomenon, an abundant game has congregated here once again.

From Savuti, we hopped on our 4x4 Land Rover to the Duma Tau Camp, just an hour’s drive away. DumaTau means “roar of the lion” but the elephant reigns supreme here. Lions, leopards, wild dogs along with large mammals like hippos, red giraffes, waterbucks, kudus, impalas and  buffalos roam in the vicinity.

Set on a lagoon on the Linyanti River, this posh haven features sweeping, dramatic views of the river and the architecture of the resort is hip, young, stylish, refreshing and very functional as well. We tasted exemplary cuisine here like seesaw (like our mechado) and rib-eye steak with mashed potatoes.

Our fourth destination was the innovative Abu Camp nestled between ancient sycamore figs overlooking a permanent lagoon. This majestic  Camp with expansive spaces and decks to lounge in offers five-star haute cuisine  and the finest wines to boast. A unique feature here is its reliable Internet connection hence phone calls via Skype. Your chance to reconnect with the rest of the world is possible since the camp is  co- owned by Paul Allen, one of the founders of Microsoft. Perched on a stunning 500,000-acre private concession, it has just six accommodations. Contemporary African style characterize the lavish and expansive space. Swinging beds, suspended below, provide the perfect midday escape or romantic evening rendezvous under the stars and you can marvel at the sounds of the African nightlife.

We savored sundown cocktails and watched an outdoor film about  the journey of Paceka, the baby elephant  and how it survived the trials  through the nurturing of the people in Abu Camp.

In all the camps we stayed, we felt the loving kindness of everyone. The impeccable service given with a smile stems from a heart that wishes to please, not for anything but to give guests the privilege to feel love from nature, from man, from God.

 I know not what tomorrow brings or to which part of the world the Lord will send me. All I know is that I have had a love affair with the African continent since I first stepped foot here more than a decade ago and it has enamored me with a yearning to keep returning.

Botswana is an answered prayer, the ultimate nirvana, where we realize that loving the world of the wilderness is life itself. Here, one will find exhilarating satisfaction of adventure that many seek but only a few find.

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Customized itineraries for Asia to Africa Safaris can be arranged by its office in Manila. Please call (02) 812-2728 or log on to www.atoasafaris.com or e-mail enquiry@atoasafaris.com.

Cathay Pacific flies from Hong Kong to Johannesburg. From here, take a local flight to Botswana.  For more information, call 757-0888.

E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.