The Pen’s love letter to the Philippines

Pictures may paint a thousand words but sometimes only tell half the story.

Currently on view until March 24 at the Lobby of The Peninsula Manila are photographs by Spanish-Filipino photographer Francisco Guerrero which are evocative, contemplative parables of shadows and light, of figures and landscapes taken in Intramuros, Corregidor, Taal and Antipolo, among other places. The photos were captured in the Now, but the time frame is Infinite: tangible present and palpable past co-existing in the same shot, timeless presences ghosting the composition.

In one photo, the old stone fortification in Puerto Real in Fort Santiago rises like a maze of stone and stuff of science fiction, a piece of architecture composed of bricks, sweat and stories. In another, the Pacific War Memorial in Corregidor becomes a place of somber, shadowy grayness  —  lest anyone forgets the fallen soldiers of World War II.

Onto another frame. An elaborate dinner of heirloom cuisine at Villa Tortuga, a restored 19th century house of stone in Taal, features a recreation of dresses and suits, an arsenal of expensive china, silverware and crystal glasses — you could practically imagine the old hosts toasting the Spanish governor in the dining room and afterwards plotting revolution in the basement.  

More photographs. Intramuros at sundown: cobblestone streets, wide promenades; a colorful calesa here, and Spanish-era edifices there, stonily speaking of how history is very much alive and well in modern-day Manila. Plus, a look inside the private ateliers of a jewelry-maker and a fashion designer, a view of famous galleries in Pasay City and Antipolo, and a glimpse of kids the middle of a halo-halo-making session, or while they’re painting Paete taka (papier-mâché) horses to bring home as pasalubong.  

How come these pictures tell only half the story — of Philippine history, of the wonders of local tourism and the arts? Because guests at The Peninsula Manila themselves could be in the middle of these landscapes, inside these restored houses, and have tea or champagne with vanguards of Philippine culture and studies. They could be inside these wondrous photographs, in a manner of speaking — in that romantic, always-sunlit interzone of past and present that is the Philippines.

The hotel’s luxury tour package, dubbed The Peninsula Academy and launched in November last year, provides thoughtfully curated tours to guests, giving them an interactive, immersive experience of the Philippines — its inspiring places, historical sites, contemporary arts and design, traditional crafts, and an ever-evolving culinary scene. Guests at The Pen (foreign or homegrown, adults or children) can avail of an adventure all their own —  from heritage walks through colonial to afternoon tea with a bespoke jeweler, with the hotel providing tour guides, hotel pages and even Benz limousines.   

“The Philippines is known for its sun, sea and sand, but we want to go beyond what is expected of a destination,” explains Mariano Garchitorena, director of public relations of The Peninsula Manila.

“We want our guests to experience the Philippines beyond the usual. We want them to meet artists, talk trends and ask them the why-you-came-to-be-this-way questions. (They will get to talk to) historians or people they wouldn’t normally meet, visit places they also usually don’t have access to, and learn about old houses or jewelry — it’s an experiential tour. We want guests to go home not just with pasalubong but also with memories. These are holidays lived to the fullest.”

The key phrases here are “a sense of engagement” and “an insider’s look,” and each module — and there are eight of them — has a wow factor. Take Corregidor, for instance. The Peninsula Academy guest (a party of one or two is ideal) will be flown by helicopter to the island, with his or her very own tranvia and private guide awaiting; go around the area, soaking in the stories of World War II and the bravery of the Filipino and American soldiers; at midday, there will be a picnic of canapés and champagne (“We will drown you with champagne,” Garchitorena promises, “with our Deutz Peninsula Champagne!”) near the Mile-Long Barracks; the end of the tour sees the guest flown to Tagaytay to get a view of Taal Volcano and then have a garden lunch at Antonio’s.

“It’s very private, customized to the needs of guests,” Garchitorena adds. “And The Pen is with the guests throughout the day; we don’t just leave them and say, ‘Bye, we’ll see you at five!’ It’s culture, fashion or history — plus the Peninsula luxe.”

The tours reveal facets of the Philippines, historical anecdotes that are not readily accessible to tourists; well in some cases, even locals.

“There is one ancestral house in Taal, the Villavicencio House, which has a trapdoor where the Katipuneros would hide. And I’ve never seen the Cavite-Batangas coastline with Pico de Loro — ang ganda pala! It’s like the first glimpse of the island in Jurassic Park — it’s so lush, the blue waves crashing.”

HIGHER LEARNING

The seeds of The Peninsula Academy were sown in Hong Kong in 1997, the year of the Handover. There was a plummet in tourism, owing to fears that Hong Kong would turn Commie and all.

Peter C. Borer, The Peninsula Hong Kong GM at that time and now currently The Pen chief operating officer, thought of a way of promoting Hong Kong beyond it being the usual shopper’s paradise.  Borer put together three programs, which were to become modules for The Peninsula Academy: Culture, Culinary and Lifestyle. For the third category, The Pen HK pulled out all the stops: guests were greeted at the airport and taken to the hotel via Rolls Royce; and the next day, Tiffany’s was closed down so that the guest(s) could have a cinematic breakfast.  

“It was very successful,” shares Garchitorena. “But the program was waylaid for a while. Then come 2012, it was brought up again. And all nine Pen hotels have their own programs composed of six to eight. In New York, kids can join the fire brigade in doing its rounds. In another program, guests are toured around the theaters by a real Broadway actor. In Tokyo, you have (modules that revolve around) kimonos and obi as well as washi handmade paper. In Bangkok, you have Muay Thai and cooking classes. So, what to do with Manila?”    

The possibilities, as they say, are endless.

This is a lovely country, remarks Garchitorena. The photos at the Lobby exhibit show that. “Paco Guerrero (the photographer) has a degree in anthropology, that’s why his interest in people shows as well. These are not just static images; there’s a narrative going on. And it’s so nice to be photographing the very things that we love about our country. This collection of photos is our love letter to the Philippines”

These tours even gave Garchitorena a heightened appreciation for what aour country has. “We may have Third World politics, but we have a world-class country and people.”

The Peninsula Manila general manager Sonja Vodusek agrees. When the Australian executive, who has been in the Philippines for three years already, is asked what does she love about the country, she answers, “Well, where do I start?”

She goes on, “The culture is so rich — what with the Spanish, the American, the Chinese influences. It’s like a melting pot. The food and entertainment scene... there is so much to do.” And one event in Vodusek’s life signifies just how much she loves the country.   

“I got married here,” she enthuses. “I met my (future) husband in New York. I moved here for my work. He moved here. When we were talking about where to get married — Australia or New York — we decided on the Philippines. We’ve made a lot of our friends here; this is where we live, and we both enjoy it here. We got married in Palawan and had our reception here. This Peninsula Manila will always have a sense of history for us.”

From the personal to the communal, The Pen, according to Vodusek, has a special place in hearts everywhere.

“Our responsibility as a cultural landmark in the city — The Pen has been here for 37 years, and with a rich history — is to be the perfect conduit in promoting Philippine history, arts, culture. We’re just stewards. You know, there is a lot of competition (in the hotel industry), what with these brand-new building — perfect and shiny. But not as rich. The Pen is an old lady with experience. It’s a hotel that has seen a lot. This Peninsula Lobby is the people’s living room.”  

And from the living room, guests can set off on their own deluxe adventures. Filled with tea and history.

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For inquiries on prices or reservations for The Peninsula Academy, call The Peninsula Manila at 887-2888 or email conciergepmn@peninsula.com. Additional information on each Peninsula hotel’s Academy programs is available at peninsula.com/academy.

If These Walls Could Speak: Tour of the Old Walled City of Intramuros

The Peninsula Academy is a luxury tour package that takes guests on a roaming adventure of the narrow cobblestone lanes and wide promenades of Intramuros — past restored buildings that once housed peninsulares and insulares both secular and religious, past pockets of manicured greenery fenced by ornate wrought-iron gates en vogue in the 18th century — on foot or riding a calesa. Photos by Francisco Guerrero.

Spirit of Corregidor: A World War II Tour by Land and Helicopter

The journey 70 years back in time begins in the morning, at the helipad of The Peninsula Manila, where guests hop aboard a helicopter for a ride over the city and across Manila Bay, towards the rocky island fortress of Corregidor. A guide then takes them on a private tour aboard a 1940s-style tranvia or tram, through the major sites. An al fresco setup for champagne and canapés awaits guests at the end of the tour, just before they board the helicopter once again for a ride along the spectacular Cavite-Batangas coastline, and over Taal Lake and restive Taal Volcano’s sulfur fumes. Finally, the helicopter descends on the hilltop town of Tagaytay where guests can settle in for an unhurried garden lunch at nearby Antonio’s, heralded by the Miele Guide as one of Asia’s best restaurants.

Pasalubong: A Filipino Crafts Class for Young People

Peninsula Manila guests get the chance to make taka-craft pieces of their own through The Peninsula Academy’s “Pasalubong: A Filipino Crafts Class for Young People.”

Art in the Hills: 27 Years of Philippine Contemporary Art

The Peninsula Academy will arrange for curious minds or art enthusiasts to go on a private guided tour of Pinto Gallery, the Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Museum with the “Art in the Hills: 27 Years of Philippine Contemporary Art” program. The tour starts at Pinto Gallery with refreshments served at Silangan Gardens. From there, a guide will take guests to the capilla with its antique santos and then on a short walk down the hillside compound to the museum. The “Art in the Hills” tour comes to a close with a chilled glass of Deutz Peninsula Champagne in hand, as well as a greater appreciation for contemporary Philippine art. Guests may even run into the venerable art collector, Joven “Manong” Cuanang. 

Manila Design: Experience Philippine Art, Design and Fashion

“Manila Design: Experience Philippine Art, Design and Fashion” allows guests to wander at leisure through a pretty and peaceful gated 1950s residential compound that houses the galleries and atelier of three Manila style-setters — Albert Avellana (art), Eric Paras (interior design) and Jojie Lloren (fashion) — and where they can discuss over lunch current trends and even buy or commission artworks, limited-edition furniture, and couture designs.

Taal Tale: Tour of the Grand Old Houses of Taal Town

One can relive those highly charged moments in history with a visit to Villa Tortuga, a restored 19th-century bahay na bato. Dine on dishes prepared the way they were back then, donning rentals of traditional dresses and suits, in a setting that speaks volumes about life a hundred or so years ago. Lunch is followed by a walking tour of the centuries-old Basilica of St. Martin de Tours, then merienda at Casa Villavicencio.

‘Lutong Pinoy’: Sweet Cooking the Filipino Way for Kids

The Peninsula Academy offers its young guests an opportunity to play master chef. The challenge? To learn how to make a local icon of a dessert, the all-time favorite halo-halo.

Defining Luxury: Jewelry by Wynn Wynn Ong

“Defining Luxury: Jewelry by Wynn Wynn Ong” takes guests to the private studio of Wynn Wynn Ong, one of the Philippines’ famous bespoke jewelers. Guests may also commission pieces of jewelry that are guaranteed to be unique; as a rule, Wynn Wynn makes only one piece of a kind, and no more than a limited number of pieces each year such as brooches, bracelets, rings, necklaces and minaudières.