Why Millie Reyes jumped off a moving train in Milan

As part of the esteemed Aristocrat group — the Reyes clan, who are pioneers of the restaurant industry in the country — Millie Reyes cites delicious Filipino food and knuckle-grinding hard work as the main ingredients behind her many achievements.

Her grandmother Doña Engracia Reyes, more fondly known as Lola Asiang, founded The Aristocrat restaurant, the enduring landmark of local cuisine that serves home favorites like Aling Asiang’s Chicken and Pork Adobo.

Her parents, Joe and Meldy Reyes, opened The Plaza, a restaurant and catering company known for its Premium Baked Ham. From there, Millie expanded the business further, delving into large-scale catering — 10,000 heads was her biggest — for institutions like the Philippine International Convention Center and world giants like Blessed John Paul II and American President George W. Bush.

These history makers surely would recognize the dedication of this food entrepreneur. Millie remembers an encounter with Carlos P. Romulo, the great diplomat, who served eight Philippine presidents. She had just arrived from hotel school in Lausanne, Switzerland and was assigned catering duties in his residence. “One day, while he was doing laps in his swimming pool, he told my mother, who was really the face and force of The Plaza, ‘Imelda, you may go home now. You don’t have to work anymore, for Millie is here.’”

Five years ago, she also had an unforgettable encounter with Henry Sy, Sr. of SM Investments Corporation. “I bumped into him in Tagaytay one Sunday, and he said to me, ‘I used to think that I was a hardworking man until I saw you,’” she shares. “He’s noticed me through the years, when no job like, say, pushing a trolley was ever too small.” The compliment meant so much to Millie, because it came from such a tireless and successful businessman.

Millie had also dealt closely with former First Lady Imelda Marcos, with whom she continues to have a personal friendship today. “Working with her was a true learning experience,” she remembers. The Madame possessed a sharp eye that always spotted what needed to be perfected like, say, window blinds that were not aligned or the use of paper napkins — which, for her, should be avoided even in informal events. Her success must have begun with the very first dish that she prepared from scratch — the famous kare-kare of Lola Asiang. Millie, then aged nine, recalls how her dad, “a real foodie,” tasted it and loved it and “proclaimed that I Joe Reyes, got it’! He kissed me and hugged me! That meant a lot to me!”

Armed with her favorite kitchen utensil, a wooden spoon “with magical powers,” Millie would whip up the following dishes for the special people in her life. She would make the enduring kare-kare for her daughter Karla, the fourth generation of Reyes restaurateurs, who now runs the operations of their Premium Baked Ham in addition to The Plaza catering.

And for the “love of my life,” it would be any Filipino dish with prawns and other seafood. “Perhaps sinigang,” she muses. “But he has cooked for me more times than I have for him. My favorite is his paella, which he does from scratch.”

As for her personal pick? It is smoked salmon and green salad “with everything on it” and a dash of balsamic. “I also must have bread with lots and, dare I say, lots and lots of butter!” she shares.

Does this the restaurateur, who specializes in “food fit for royalty,” ever partake of the fast-food menu? Millie laughs. “Who doesn’t? Tell me,” she challenges. “I enjoy anything, from burgers to pizzas.”

PHILIPPINE STAR: What do you remember most of your first trip abroad?

MILLIE REYES: My first-ever trip abroad was to Tokyo, Japan when I was 11 years old. I was with my parents, Joe and Meldy, and my brother, Ray. I just love Tokyo because of its arts and culture, food and shopping. The icing on the cake was that it was cherry blossom season. I was thrilled going through the glass doors of department stores as they would open automatically. I got the same sensation getting into taxis, whose doors would open and close automatically, as well. Back then, I knew little of the world of the magic eye.

Who is your ideal traveling companion?

In the past, my dad as he knew all the best places to dine. He had a great appreciation for food, and we never, ever were disappointed with his suggestions and selections. Nowadays, it’s my daughter Karla, and my best friend, Verne Santos Cuyugan Reyes, because we all share the same interest in shopping and passion for dining.

What would you consider a must-do activity in every foreign city that you visit?

Eat. Shop. Take a photo in a famous landmark. Visit a local church that I have never been to before, so I can make my three wishes. Call on friends. You see, my parents sent me to Switzerland initially to a finishing school and later on to a hotel school in Lausanne. There, the students came from all over the world, though a greater number were from European nations. These classmates eventually became good friends, which I have kept in touch with through the years, so I do call on them. My out-of-town friends drive, while others fly from neighboring countries for a get together. I look forward to these reunions! In America, I call on my best friend, who resides in Los Angeles, and the many relatives scattered all over the many states.

Describe your most memorable trip.

Two very memorable trips come to mind. In 2002, I flew to Frankfurt with my nephew, Gino, who was with me as he was en route to Spain. We met up with my cousin, Pol Chavez, who flew in from Los Angeles. We spent a night at the Frankfurter Hof, a heritage hotel with more than 130 years of history, and immediately flew to Prague the following day. My cousin and I discovered the city on foot, walking through the Old Town, the Charles Bridge, and the Church of Lady Victorious, where we found the Infant Jesus of Prague. We hired a private chauffeured car and toured the rest of the city and the countryside. Upon the suggestion of then Philippine Ambassador to Czechoslovakia, Carmelita Salas, we visited Karlovy Vary, which is famous for its spas. We were billeted for five days at the InterContinental Hotel. We also discovered Pravda, a restaurant serving haute cuisine. We were so impressed that we went back three times. What beautiful, wonderful, lovely days we had in Prague! We returned to Frankfurt with memories for life. Pol went home to Los Angeles, while I spent two weeks with the love of my life. (Smiles)

The other trip was to Paris last year in January 2011. After my dad’s passing, I decided to take off for a few weeks. I was originally going to Italy with the love of my life, but he fell ill. Mindful of my present frame of my mind, which was full of emotion, while unselfishly forgetting his own concerns, he implored me to revise my traveling plans. I thought I’d spend some time with my dear friends, Mario Katigbak, who was in Paris visiting, and Babette Aquino, a long-time resident of the city. We had a lovely time shopping and dining out. I likewise enjoyed moments alone whenever I’d walk the streets and boulevards, cross bridges, visit isles, and have coffee and a snack at Fauchon, the gourmet company that makes sumptuous chocolates and biscuits. At times, I’d find myself inside L’église de la Madeleine, the neo-classical church adorned with bronze doors and 52 Corinthian columns, to pray or, perhaps, cry my heart out.

When my school friends from Lausanne learned I was in Paris, they joined me for a few days. Hermann Meier and wife Tone flew in from Oslo, Norway and Bernard Douchet de Rouere drove from Gstaad, Switzerland. For three days, we toured more of the city, wined, dined, and even watched Folies Bergere!

From Paris, we drove back to Switzerland and made a sentimental stop in Lausanne for old times’ sake. We spent a night in snowy Gstaad in Bernard’s charming chalet. I took the train from Gstaad to Geneva, where I spent the night. While there, I also made sure to eat at my favorite Café de Paris restaurant near the station. The next day, I took the train back to Paris and connected with Babette once more.

By this time, I started to miss Karla. Since it was her birthday, we agreed to meet up in Hong Kong. By coincidence, friends Larry Mallari and Ramon Tan were also there, so we hooked up for lunches and dinners with shopping in between. We took the hydrofoil to Macau, where we checked in at the Venetian Hotel and happily watched Cirque du Soleil, the famous show of street and circus arts, and The House of Dancing Water. What a trip! It was truly memorable and more!

What is the strangest thing you have done on a trip?

I jumped off a moving train in Milan! (Laughs) It was Easter time, and Karla and I were en route from Geneva to Rome by rail and had to change trains in Milan. There was an ongoing national train strike, so it was chaos everywhere. The trains were packed like sardines! Although we had reserved seats, we could hardly move once we boarded. Passengers were either seated on the passageways or standing by the hallways. Since we could not even get close to our reserved seats — if I must say, they were most probably already occupied illegally — I could not bear the thought of standing on a packed train with so much havoc around us. We instantly decided to jump off as the train started to move slowly. With all our bags, we walked back to the terminal and ended up spending the night at the train station. Remember, it was Easter break, so there were no available rooms at the inns. Karla eventually slept on my lap, while I surrounded or, shall I say, kept an eye on our luggage. I could not sleep a wink!

Let’s talk favorites now. Name your favorite city abroad.

Hong Kong of the old days. I have good memories of moments shared with my parents and some friends. We spent time eating and shopping followed by more eating and more shopping. Those were the days.

Paris of today. During my first visit, it was just a so-so destination. I didn’t feel welcome at all. Through the years, as I improved my French, I have grown to like the city more. Today, I simply love the place and everything it stands for. I feel at home there, and, at times, I know that I can even reside there.

Las Vegas and its magic. It’s greater than life — a non-real world of make-believe. My dad loved the hotels, the restaurants, the shows. Though Celine Dion was his favorite, unfortunately he had never seen her perform. Call it timing. Call it luck! Years later, when the celebrity was in town, I queued for tickets in Dad’s memory. The lady before me tirelessly complained that she was returning her ticket as the seat was broken. Eventually, her concern was addressed. Finally, it was my turn, only to find out that the lone ticket left would cost $250, a lot of money. I silently prayed to my dad. While witnessing my transaction being finalized, the same lady, who was now beside me, suddenly exclaimed and complained that such a seat should not be sold, creating a scene. Amendments were made and I was upgraded. I ended up in front with a vacant seat beside me. I immediately felt Dad had something to do with it. The helpful lady had disappeared before I could thank her. The show was fabulous, but I was sobbing all throughout. I was recalling how much my dad enjoyed her CDs and TV specials. I must confess that I felt Dad’s presence beside me by the empty seat.

Name your favorite spot in the Philippines.

Panglao Beach in Bohol. It’s a place that I visit every year. The sea summons me and speaks to me. I must tell you that I can relate to it. It started years ago when it was not the best of times: Mom had just passed on, my love life was shot, and business was not ideal. From then on, I started going to Panglao always around the same time. I am looking forward to my next visit in 2013. Recently, I felt the same thing in the middle of a forest owned by the Fonaciers. I always stay near what I call my tree. From there, I can see a sliver of light from the sky. I can’t explain it. It must be a spiritual thing.

Favorite airport?

It would be Hong Kong International Airport and Singapore Changi Airport, both of which are very convenient and user friendly. I also like Frankfurt am Main Airport for my European travels. It’s where most of my hellos and goodbyes are made. (Smiles) But the airport I am not a fan of is Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, Thailand. Maloloka ako! During several arrivals, I stood for two hours in long queues at immigration. And departures were much worse. It looked like a World War II film clip with all the long lines. I remember Karla went to the bathroom. When she came back, she couldn’t find me immediately because the lines had snaked around and overlapped one another. It was utter confusion!

Favorite museum?

The Louvre in Paris, France. After so many visits, I’m sure I’ve only seen a fraction of what they have. Need I say more?

Favorite hotel?

The Conrad Hong Kong in Hong Kong and the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. When you step out of the properties, you’d find yourself in the middle of everything. That’s what fascinates and excites me. There is also excellent dining in many great restaurants and exciting shopping all around — come rain or shine. The connectivity from the hotels to the outside world is a breeze through subways, buses, taxicabs, and even ferries. The Carlton in Laguna Bay in Los Angeles is another favorite. The view is beautiful because it sits on a hill, and their champagne brunches are unforgettable. It’s a hotel for those rare-to-plan, smell-the-roses times.

Favorite landmark?

Eiffel Tower in Paris, France. Once, I was billeted in a boutique hotel near the French President’s Palace, and I had the pleasure of enjoying this spectacular view from my hotel room window, both day and night. The evening lights of the Eiffel Tower invites you to walk around the area — even to rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for some window shopping. If I could, I would bring the Eiffel Tower home. That’s how much I love it and miss it.

Favorite musical or play?

Wicked. Hands down. Karla and I even flew to Singapore just to watch it.

Favorite mall or store?

Pacific Place in Hong Kong. Marina Bay in Singapore. Hermès and Bulgari! (Smiles)

Favorite restaurant or bar?

Spoon by Alain Ducasse at the InterContinental Hotel in Hong Kong. The two-Michelin Star restaurant serves contemporary French cuisine. And the view is fantastic! Alfredo in Rome, Italy. It was my dad’s favorite restaurant in the whole world. From the very simple but superb Pasta Alfredo to a photo wall of famous celebrities, dining here is always an unforgettable experience.

Name an event anywhere in the world you would like to participate in?

I’d like to be the official caterer at a gathering of various heads of state. No se puede, no ba? I actually miss the old days of the Philippine International Convention Center, where we catered to several official visitors of then President Ferdinand Marcos and the many VIP guests of his First Lady Imelda Marcos. After Madame Imelda’s visit to China, she commissioned us to construct a round table that would seat 30! It was used for several official banquets and state dinners. We had to assemble it piece by piece. It was huge! I often wonder where it ended up.

What are your pasalubong purchases — inbound and outbound?

Inbound — my family members are genuine foodies, who always ask for premium chocolates, hams, salamis, and various kinds of cheeses. When Dad was alive, I would bring home roast duck from Yung Kee Restaurant in Hong Kong, too.

Outbound — the latest innovative local handicrafts, pastilles de leche, ripe or dried mangoes, Aristocrat Bagoong, or Aristocrat Chicken Barbeque!

What is the worst souvenir you have ever brought back from a trip?

I don’t know if you would consider this a souvenir, but I once brought back these hairy crabs from Hong Kong for my dad. They were his favorite. For his birthday one October, I remember hand-carrying three dozen live crabs. While in flight, one suddenly escaped from the container. Luckily, we caught it and sealed the box better. Can you imagine the pandemonium had more crabs found their way out of the container? It just shows that I would do anything for my dad.

Name a city you have never visited but would like to someday.

Cairo in Egypt. It’s where my parents spent their honeymoon. I am fascinated by it, because everything in the city is so different from what we have here. Karla and I have always dreamed of visiting. In fact, while on holiday in Los Angeles, there was an Egyptian exhibit in Los Angeles, and we made sure to drop by. Our desire to go to Cairo increased even more because of such an event.

Name a country you wish to explore.

Italy and Greece, both wine countries.

If you could reside anywhere in the world aside from the Philippines, where would it be?

Germany, where my dear lives. (Smiles)