Batanes: God's shadow on earth

There is a place where the icy winds grip the sharp, craggy cliffs, the verdant, rolling pasturelands and turquoise oceans.  Here, one can savor the infinite pulse of the universe through the expression of Mother Nature that seems untouched, preserved and cared for like no other.  This paradise is Batanes. To me, it is God’s shadow on earth.

No place amazes me as much as the desolate and dramatic landscapes of the northernmost tip of the Philippines.  In this sanctuary of adventure and legend, human survival is challenged beyond measure. The resilient reside here, protecting and preserving a sacred culture that espouses values such as love for God and family, honesty, simplicity, frugality, integrity, humility, perseverance, contentment and the desire to preserve their environment, habitat and culture.  This is Batanes, where the vast sky and sea meet at the horizon, where a wild kind of beauty permeates, where the inhospitable weather is a way of life that hardly dampens the spirit of the Ivatans, the kindred people from this region.  The indigenous tribe of the Ivatans is the heart and soul of this ethereal paradise. They reflect a lifestyle that God smiles upon.

Ivatan folk wearing vakul, an all-weather headgear made of dried palm leaves. Ivatans have longer life expectancy due perhaps to living a low-stress life. There are over 30 centenarians living in Batanes.

From the air, on board an efficient 94-seater British-made jumbolino plane with very comfortable and wide leather seats, the province of Batanes cuts a seemingly lonely, desolated chunk of scenic landscape in the archipelago. There exists an overwhelming feeling of mystery and grandeur seeing the islands from a window seat that enamors you. This province may be the smallest in landmass of 84.56 square miles and a population of approximately 16,000 yet it is perhaps among the richest in culture, heritage and stunning beauty.  I felt transported to the wind-swept sanctuaries of the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, the rolling terrains of New Zealand, the craggy cliffs of Ireland as well as the enchanting Ushuaia, the southernmost city of the world in Argentina. It was an arresting emotion of déjà vu as I recalled the views of this paradise in the Patagonia region where lighthouses, rugged terrain and waves gracefully lap against the isolated islands that jut out of the immaculate sea. I had to pinch myself to be reminded that I was in our own country, and unlike Patagonia, a very short flight could get us to such spectacular beauty of Batanes.

Batanes is a refreshing gift in a priceless package of untouched natural environs, which astonishes a visitor with pleasant surprises from the landmasses bolting out of the surrounding blue waters where the West Philippine Sea and the Pacific Ocean cuddle. Only the major three islands Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan are inhabited. Otherwise, the rest of the 11 islands like Adekey, Ditarem, Dinem, Mavudis, Misanga, Vuhus and others are mostly pasturelands for the denizens of the wild.

Admire the works of the great Ivatan artist Pacita Abad, whose artworks are globally recognized. Her vibrant colors and progressive approach towards her 5,000 works of amazing art reflect her zest for life and infectious spirit.

Kudos to the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (BCTA) for spearheading aggressive efforts to promote Batanes as an impressive and sustainable cultural destination and help provide employment in the area.   My dear family friend, Dr. Joel Mendoza, CEO of BCTA, shares his truly romantic story of how he was enamored by his wife, Maria Rosan Castillejos, a beautiful true-blue Ivatan lady. Rosan is the only daughter of the former Gov. Telesforo Castillejos, a civil engineer who is also vice chairman of BCTA. With Joel’s love for his family and Batanes, he was inspired to put up BCTA. In fact, he loves Batanes so much that he brings his two beautiful daughters Sofia Rosan and Joanna Mira here to spend their summers  to learn the Ivatan culture. Despite the great tourism potential of the province, its inaccessibility to the mainland and the lack of passenger traffic became a hindrance for tourism growth thus Joel searched far and wide and found the solution that would affordably, conveniently and above all safely, transport passengers to and from Batanes on this first time ever 94-seater jumbolino plane built for short and unpaved runways like Basco’s 1,200 meter airstrip. The BCTA plane was acquired from a British-registered company that also produces the aircrafts for use of the British Royal family, British airlines, Lufthansa and other Europe-based airlines.”

Joel believes it is a divine mission for him to help look after the welfare of the Ivatans. “It’s not about revenue, it’s about preserving traditions and letting the world know that such beautiful culture and nature abounds. Our role as a steward is to preserve God’s blessings and gifts. We all have our Garden of Eden that God requires us to work on and take care of.”

Nakabuang arch, located on Sabtang Island, is one of the most scenic landmarks of  Batanes.

Peculiar and truly admirable is Batanes’ zero-crime rate that is most encouraging as well.  Take for instance the famously unmanned Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana wherein the enterprising proprietor essentially expects the patrons of this sari-sari store to be trustworthy enough to drop the right amount and make change in a box in a rural enterprise with a purposely nonexistent staff. This honesty system is a way of life for Ivatans; the honesty café is just a tangible model that shows this.

“Spring of youth” in Rakuh-a-idi Old settlement.

What are the real highlights of Batanes? Commune with the islands’ exotic trees, plants, marine life and migratory birds. But it’s always the cultural immersion with the Ivatans and their way of life that is worthy of emulation.  Walking around the charming towns and watching the Ivatans as they go about their daily activities are traditions that we do not see often. Young boys leading the cows to pasture, young girls helping their mothers weave baskets from native fibers and old folks with their cheery toothy smiles pounding corn or sporting the local vakul hats while walking to church. Savor their local delicacy, prized coconut lobster, its belly formed into a tight ball filled with the rich fat or aligue.  Best eaten with piping hot rice flavored with native grown turmeric. To come up close and personal with this wonderful Ivatan way is a priceless treasure.  From the two ladies we encountered in Savidug, where rows of the stone houses and thatched roofs still stood neatly, we learned that most of the womenfolk were in their gardens tending to their crops. They themselves had just come from a neighbor’s patch and had finished weeding their garden, bayanihan style. Photograph the ruins at Sitio Songsong where a tsunami tragedy occurred that struck the seaside town in the 1950s; the three different lighthouses in Basco, Mahatao, and Sabtang and the boulder beach found in the south of Basco called Valugan Bay. Admire the impressive art at the home of Pacita Abad, a truly global and celebrated Filipino artist. Take advantage of the unusually calm seas to make the 40-minute crossing across the five-kilometer channel to Sabtang. Brave this ride as the waves can easily surpass the height of the boat. It is exciting to know that Joel is in the process of building a large boat with front seating influenced by the  local designs of Batanes, which will be ready by the third quarter of the year.</p>

Batanes from above: An aerial view of a portion of the circumferential road on the main island of Batanes.

<p>Joel also addressed the limitation of rooms in Batanes for the growing local and foreign tourists and is therefore a major priority. He proudly shared that BCTA is initiating a home-stay program where the Ivatans can rent out rooms in their homes  for a cultural exchange or immersion while deriving additional income from this.</p> <p> Joel adds, “Preserving the cultural tradition of the Ivatans does not require massive funds but it must be addressed soon because time is of the essence. Some new houses are being built contradicting the cultural designs of the Ivatans. Batanes is now challenged with cultural degradation due to unguided or unsupervised modernization.”</p> <p>“We are at the crossroads of development. We need to balance our programs for growth while preserving our environment and cultural and historical heritage,” says Castillejos. </p> <p>As I gazed down at the picturesque Batanes scenery, I vowed to return again and again. Batanes is simply addicting and the number of tourist visits here will surely increase because on a journey here, the joy and bliss experienced is immeasurable. An ethereal sanctuary as this is so blessed with natural beauty that it certainly deserves to be carefully scrutinized, appreciated and embraced. Beauty has no limits where the sky and land merge. As we near it, it seems to move away from us.  Man has need of the infinite and Batanes pushes him towards it.</p> <p> In this place, your imagination will just run wild and free. As you stare at the desolate terrain, you realize how small and fragile life is, just an imperceptible breath. “You came here because of what Batanes is, not because of what you want it to be,” Castillejos says.</p>

Hedgerows are among the unique features of Batanes. They prove the centuries-old practice of Ivatans on appropriate farming technology. Photos by Yvette Lee

<p>For all that it is worth, Batanes is God’s shadow on earth.</p>

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Visit BCTA’s website at www.batanestravel.com or call 823-3087, 0917-8112282. Flight schedules are Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.