Taj Mahal Palace: Poetry in marble
AGRA, India — “To each man his own madness.” This thought reverberated in my consciousness as I marveled at the Taj Mahal. The Taj is indeed a world wonder.
Learning how the Taj was built incited me to query: Are we ruled by what drives us or we are driven by what rules us? Discovering this monument makes me reflect that the esteemed life is undeniably all about passion. Each step taken moves us closer to our divine plan. Whatever we decide to embark on, we do it with all our heart, mind and soul. At the end of the day, we will be judged by the way we lived and responded to each call and bounced back from each fall.
Much has been written and said about the Taj Mahal Palace in Agra, India. Many films have been shot here, both foreign and local, yet it is a completely gratifying experience to visit it. Over 20,000 skilled craftsmen from Persia painstakingly labored day and night for 22 years to build this monument that ought to be experienced at various times of the day to appreciate its magnificence. Perhaps it is the mystical light that determines the various moods of the Taj. The smooth Indian marble veneer of the Taj possesses a luminous nature as it remains responsive to the movement or shifting of light during various seasons. Choose for yourself which is most dramatic — tender blue during dawn, the pinkish hue at sunset, the color of honey at dusk or luminescence under a full moon. The ever-changing sky and ominous clouds that compose the backdrop assist the Taj in sharing its story.
The Taj is all about the love story of a powerful man, Shah Jahan, who was so in love with his wife, the stunningly beautiful Mumtaz Mahal, with whom he had 14 children within their 18 years of marriage from 1621-1653. When she died, his only reason to continue living was her memory. He decided to honor this passionate love with the greatest mausoleum of all time. For many years after her death, he sat on a lone bench and wept. A few years before his own demise, he viewed the Taj Mahal soaring to a height of 74.21 meters, from the fort where he was imprisoned by his own son. Though incarcerated, he was always at liberty to love and continue loving in the only way he knew.
The story of the Taj reminds me of Richard Lovelace’s poem: Stone walls do not a prison make,/ Nor iron bars a cage;/ Minds innocent and quiet take/ That for an hermitage;/ If I have freedom in my love,/ And in my soul am free,/ Angels alone that soar above/ Enjoy such liberty.
Seemingly immortal love like this may be precious and few, and this ode of love is edified in the most beautiful mausoleum in the world known to many as “Poetry in Marble.” More than simply the ultimate symbol of art and architecture, it was his eulogy to a love though still earthbound was already enrolled in heaven. Some may allude to it as the eternal flame or perhaps the reason for each season. This kind of certainty comes just once in a lifetime and the legacy it leaves behind is a blinding and binding passion. Shah Jahan was only 39 years old when he built this tribute to his love Mumtaz. She garnered the status of a martyr because she died in childbirth thus her mausoleum could be designated as a pilgrimage site.
Engraved in stone, the design and construction is said to have been the only work of Ustad Ahmad Lahori. It was indeed a lifetime project that can hardly be surpassed. The layout of the Taj complex with its gardens and fountains is similar to that of an Islamic garden paradise. Shah Jahan’s cenotaph is placed alongside his wife’s, but the actual graves are in a chamber below. Every inch of the Taj is built in perfect symmetry except for Shah Jahan’s tomb, which was lovingly commissioned by his daughter as it lay in its final resting place beside the only woman he ever loved. Semiprecious stones such as carnelian, black onyx, mother of pearl, jasper, agate, lapis lazuli, amethyst and sapphire were inlaid by hand into the finest marble sourced from the quarries of Makrana.
From every angle that you view the Taj, it is impressively identical. From the lengthy canal lined by cypress trees leading to the marble edifice, enthralled visitors linger momentarily by the central pool to appreciate the reflection of the Taj. A spellbinding vision of endless love, it cost 50 million rupees to build this palatial grave. Today, this architectural jewel is a priceless treasure, a flawless gem and the greatest edifice of the Mughal period in Agra.
My sisters Jaqui Boncan, Michelle Soliven, childhood friend Rita Trinidad and our creative consultant Mike Mina hied off to celebrate the 46th anniversary of our company, Miladay Jewels, with an eventful trip to the Taj Mahal. We donned our favorite saris and kurtas replete with smoky coal eye makeup for an impromptu photo shoot at the Taj complex. It was a delightful activity for us as we posed and frolicked in front of the camera while catching the attention of locals and tourists who requested for photos with us as well. Our charming guide, Mohsin Khan, and photographer Mr. Musthaq shared that it was a unique experience for them as well to see foreigners who were totally immersed in their beautiful culture. We even shared our knowledge about our favorite Bollywood films while enumerating favorite actors and actresses from Amitabh Bachchan and Hrithik Roshan to Shah Rukh Khan, Aiswarya Rai, Deepika Padukone and Priyanka Chopra.
From Delhi, it was a four-hour drive to our choice hotel, the Oberoi Amarvilas Hotel, wherein each window features a glorious view of the Taj Mahal. Jaqui and I had visited at the Oberoi and Trident Hotel in Mumbai a few years back and we were advised that a stay at Oberoi Amarvilas is the best way to appreciate the Taj.
Yes, the embodiment of romance is captured by this beautiful palatial hotel that is strategically located just 600 meters from the Taj Mahal, it is a four-minute walk or two-minute ride in battery-operated golf carts.
Under the quivering slice of moon and a few bright stars, we walked into the romantic halls of the Oberoi Amarvilas. We were mesmerized by the stunning sandstone gateway flanked by marble elephants that segues on to a courtyard of four illuminated pools with 64 fountains and awesome frescoes. The lobby, with its soaring gold and blue cupola and huge crystal chandelier, evokes a sense of grandeur.
According to GM Nigel Badminton, this decade-old sanctuary was designed by Bensley Design Studios, Bangkok, in the tradition of the Oberoi Group’s intimate and romantic resorts successfully pioneered by the Oberoi Bali, Oberoi Lombok and Rajvilas in Jaipur. Covering approximately nine acres of beautifully landscaped gardens with marble pools and fountains, one can feel the symmetry and balance that is skillfully integrated in the property. As you wander around the romantic pavilions, pools and terraces, a sense of awe and wonder will arrest your senses.
The Oberoi Amarvilas definitely complements the Taj and is the most revered address to stay in when visiting Agra. Michelle, being a painter, inspected with great appreciation the exquisite filigree and marble inlay work, jaali screens, gold thread and bead embroidery, wood carvings, leather crafts and hand-woven tapestries. A grand tour of the stunning property revealed a deluxe ambience that possesses a distinctly residential quality. There are elegantly appointed guestrooms, many with private terraces, and seven suites that include the B.K. Nehru and Robert Burns luxury suites and the seven-bay Kohinoor or Presidential Suite.
We had a delightful dinner at Esphahân, the Indian restaurant in the hotel. Try their succulent lamb biryani, basmati rice with vegetables and meat cooked in a sealed pot over a slow fire, chicken curry cooked in fresh coconut milk melted in our mouths and spinach kofta served with fresh yoghurt and tamarind sauce that was simply divine. To our delight, chef Abhilash Kalathil came out to greet us as we complimented him for the heavenly meal he had prepared. My sisters declared that this was the best lamb biryani they had ever tasted!
Countless attractions in India beckon. In this land that celebrates excitement, color, pageantry, history and diversity, one definite must-see is the Taj Mahal from the Oberoi Amarvilas. This rare gem of unrivaled art, architecture and passionate madness is a timeless legacy for future generations to learn from and appreciate.
At the end of it all, we shall be held accountable for the things we did and did not do. Put this on your bucket list. Live not to regret it.
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Check out www.oberoihotels.com. Singapore Airlines flies from Manila to New Delhi. For personal guided tours of the Taj Mahal, please email Mohsin Khan at 786.mohsin.khan@gmail.com. E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.
