W Vieques: Puerto Rico's newest escape

Only in the darkness will you see the light,” our tour guide Esteban cryptically shares as we chart through the mysterious waters that glow in Mosquito Bay, Vieques, Puerto Rico. In sepulchral silence, we give each other a puzzled stare and surmise that one need not understand everything all at once in order to appreciate it.

Like a vision of grace, nature’s phenomenon reveals the unbelievably surreal. Imagine the sight of billions of luminescent microscopic aquatic fireflies all glowing as they swim in starry formations. As you take a dip in these warm waters of the Caribbean, you instantly light up with a bluish-green hued phosphorescence. You wonder if this is the Milky Way that has fizzled and found its way in this sparkling bay.

 Mosquito Bay, named by the Guinness Book of World Records as the brightest in the world, is home to a phenomenon called marine bio-luminescence. The bay is populated by floating dinoflagellates, which are microscopic, unicellular organisms. When these organisms are disturbed at night, either by passing vessels or people swimming in the waters, they emit an enchanting glow that mirror the stars strewn above them. This phenomenon occurs around the world but in no place is it more observed regularly than in Vieques, Puerto Rico.

On a moonless night in Vieques, swim in the Bio-luminescent Bay as millions of microscopic dinoflagellates glow in the dark. Guinness Book of World Records named this bay the brightest on earth. (Photo courtesy of ecorazzi.com)

Vieques, a.k.a. Isla Nena, is now a Caribbean choice destination in the Greater Antilles. Before, it was largely off-limits with key US bases for Navy bomb testing until 2003 when they left the islands after years of protest.

 I can still hear the reverberating vibe of the song Honeymoon in Puerto Rico as I board the Cape Air flight from the main island of San Juan. My final destination is the Isla de Vieques where I fall in love with the island for all the things that it lacks — crowds, tall buildings, traffic, and commercialized beaches. This island is situated eight miles off the southeast coast of Puerto Rico amidst tranquil lush rainforest and breathtaking coastline beaches. 

In this pristine eco-luxury wilderness is nestled the premier address of the tropical island — the W Retreat & Spa Vieques. This is the hotel chain’s first retreat resort in the Caribbean and the second in the world after the successful opening of W Retreat & Spa Maldives in 2006. It is owned by Reig Capital, through its affiliate Vieques Hotel Partners.

The dramatic Fire Pit at the W Retreat & Spa in Vieques Island is an ideal location to enjoy the panoramic ocean vistas.

I get to the resort on a turbo-propped, single-engine plane, with the white and purple logo of the W. This signals the inevitable: ultra-luxurious, fabulous vacation holiday that only a W resort can whimsically offer. After all, the W means “whatever, whenever, what else.”

The resort is set on the scarcely explored splendor of Vieques with 30 acres of beachfront property. It introduces a lifestyle that embraces W’s “new way to escape,” fusing the brand’s signature style with the spectacular treasures of nature in Vieques. I am joined by my traveling companions Edwin Santos, a physical therapist from Tyler, Texas; and Tony Rodriguez, a telescope engineer from the National Radio Astronomy Observatory in Virginia who happens to be on assignment in the area. Tony is in the area to visit the Arecibo Ionospheric Observatory, seen in the movie Contact where Jodie Foster plays an astronomer seeking extraterrestrial life. The Arecibo is located 48 miles west of San Juan.

Hip and chic luxury is alive at the Living Room at W Retreat & Spa: Created by Spanish-born Patricia Urquiola, the colors and craft celebrate the wild and natural surroundings of Vieques.

At the Welcome Lounge of the Antonio Rivera Rodriguez Airport, we sample a selection of cocktail brews by Alain Ducasse in authentic W style. (We tease Tony, whose real name is Antonio, that he must be related to the man whom the airport was named after.) After this initial rendering of W Vieques’s exclusivity, escape and indulgence, we are chauffeured off to the resort just 10 minutes away. 

As the cloak of night envelops all in its path at the luxurious yet culturally charged W Vieques, a symphony of coquis (endemic frogs to this place) amuse us with their unique welcome that resembles the sound of a thousand singing myna birds. We settle in the unique fiber optic plunge pool, which reflects the stars not only in the sky but also in the flooring of the pool.

W Vieques consistently embraces and practices measures to truly care for its eco-luxury surroundings. Beachfront lights are turned off at certain hours so as not to disturb sea turtles as they lay their eggs on the warm sand.

Rustic elegance is interwoven with contemporary design in this WOW Suite Bedroom.

 “We are excited to be opening W Retreat & Spa at Vieques Island, our first hotel venture outside of Spain and our first retreat hotel in North America,” says Maria Reig, president of Reig Capital. “We are passionate about not only the property but the beautiful island of Vieques and feel confident that W Vieques will quickly become one of the most sought after destinations to visit in the world.” Magnificently produced by Spanish-born Patricia Urquiola of Milan-based Studio Urquiola, W Vieques offers 156 stylish guestrooms and suites with private patios and balconies with unrivaled views of white sandy beaches and cool azure waters.

 At the rate W Vieques presents itself to the world, it will be a dream destination in perpetuity. Here’s why. Front and center from the portals, a bailiwick of dancing fire romantically warms and invites as the green ridge overlooks the calm waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Steps away from the veranda are two long swimming pools with signature underwater sounds. As you listen to the vibrant audio streams, the pools’ color changes from blue, green, fuchsia, violet, red, white, orange — indeed, hydro-color therapy at its finest. It pairs well with any tropical cocktail from the W bar poolside, which has served many personal milestones like weddings, anniversaries and birthdays or even just a new day.

Mosquito Bay (also called Bio Bay) at dusk: The natural phenomena that occurs here is a sight to behold.

The featured MIX cuisines creatively designed by Alan Ducasse are up for grabs with enigmatic presentation to perk up anyone’s appetite. Cocktails are served daily — make mine lemon daiquiri! 

Our dinner hosted by GM Greg White is a delicious study of the cultures that Puerto Rico is. The paella, roasted lobster with coconut basmati rice, the succulent lamb with butter bean piquillo and rum baba with light whip cream and passion caramel sauce looked and tasted divine. An imposing wine locker is a showcase of amazing select collection to complement whatever meal. We cannot help but find perplexing similarities and twists among the tropical Asian flavors and the stunning Jibaro cool tastes. Even more prodigious is the heartfelt service of the wait staff. In no time we find out that a few of these hardworking and vibrant associates are extra precious to the Commonwealth as gifted athletes representing Puerto Rico in boxing and baseball among others.

Escape to the fabulous W Retreat & Spa in Vieques, named by Conde Nast Traveler’s 2011 Hot List and Travel and Leisure’s 2011 It List.

From the intimate Studio to the ballroom, there are endless possibilities for guests to be wowed in this resort. The W Café offers healthy picnic baskets. The fitness center called Sweat is replete with state-of-the-art gym equipment. There’s also a concession center for those who favor kayaking, snorkeling and biking; and yoga classes for those who desire to start their morning blissfully.

With the Atlantic Ocean as the spectacular view, one is assured to embrace the unique vibe of the island at the Away Spa. The spa is a sanctuary of sorts, what with the lush gardens with enchanting seating areas and pools surrounding them. There are rivulets that jut out from everywhere, making sure that an invigorating spa experience is achieved long before the treatments begin. The treatment areas are covered with vines and are separated from the main pavilion, ensuring guests of seclusion from the world to guarantee that their cares will be whisked to the wind.

I daresay that my experience at W Vieques was life changing. It was a discovery of my inner being, my extra strength, my deepest repository for celebrating love and life.

A new way to escape: Welcome to the W Retreat & Spa in Vieques, located eight miles of the southeast coast of Puerto Rico. In photo are National Radio Astronomy Observatory engineer Antonio Rodriguez, the author Christine Dayrit, W Retreat & Spa GM Greg White, and physical therapist Edwin Santos.

I will always remember Vieques in Puerto Rico as an enigmatic, spiritual and enchanting destination. Our encounter with the microscopic aquatic fireflies at the bio-luminescent bay on a moonless night proved that we need the darkness to experience the unbelievable, the surreal, and the seemingly impossible.

 As we witness the light in the darkness, we encourage you to feel it for yourself. After all, some things are still better experienced than explained.

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For more information on W Retreat & Spa Vieques, call +1787-741-4100 or log on to www.wvieques.com.

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E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.