Bohol's bounty

Boholanos call it “a gift from God.” The kinampay is a special variety of ube or purple yam, which is found in abundance in the province of Bohol in the Central Visayas region. According to the old folks, when an ube falls to the ground, one must kiss it after picking it up, “to banish the bad karma,” our tour guide, Cecile Visarra-Remolador, a true-blue Boholana, explained.

The kinampay is a symbol of Bohol and is mentioned in the provincial anthem. Yes, while the country has its National Anthem, Bohol has its own provincial anthem, where the lyrics praise the beauty of its land, its rich culture and history: “Here’s where the early heroes lived…here rise marvelous cone-shaped hills…here sweet kinampay grows…”

There are a number of ways to get to Bohol. By land, it takes two days and one night from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway, passing through Bicol, Samar and Leyte. By sea, it’s a two-hour fast ferry ride from Cebu to Tagbilaran, the capital city of Bohol. It’s a one-hour direct flight from Manila to Tagbilaran. We took Zest Air’s Airbus 320, which flies daily from Manila to Tagbilaran and back. On our descent, looking out from our window seat, we immediately noticed the verdant hills below. Even if you’ve been here a number of times before, it never fails: Bohol captivates.

An eight-year-old tarsier at the Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella, Bohol

It’s a comfortable 40-minute ride from the airport in Tagbilaran to Henann Resort in Panglao Island. The resort is situated on a slightly elevated area along the long stretch of Alona Beach, which was once made popular by a local actress who shot a movie in that location. With only 12 exclusive villas, separated by a 70-meter-wide coconut palm grove from the beach, guests can expect utmost privacy and comfort during their stay. If you prefer not to get sand and saltwater in your hair, there’s always the 450-sqm. fresh- water swimming pool with bar that looks out to the sea.

Once you’re checked in, you may not want to leave your villa anymore. You can fall into deep slumber without much difficulty in your cozy king-sized bed. Or you can lounge in your own private veranda and fill your lungs with the fresh breeze rising from the sea. Still, there’s much to see of this bountiful province, and the countryside tour by Travel Village Tour & Travel is worth taking.

The first international “treaty of friendship” is said to have taken place in Bohol, with the historic Blood Compact or Sandugo between the local chieftain, Datu Sikatuna and the Spanish explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. The commemorative shrine, made of bronze by National Artist Napoleon Abueva, based on a painting by celebrated 19th-century Filipino artist Juan Luna, is located in Barangay Bool in Tagbilaran City. The life-size tableau sits on a promontory overlooking the Bohol Sea. In the distance, you can see the outline of Pamilacan Island, where dolphins are known to frolic around its waters. Underneath are rich coral reefs and diverse marine life.

If you look hard enough, you can see the image of Padre Pio on the surface of one of the buttresses of Baclayon Church.

Coral stones were used to build many of the Spanish churches in our islands. Egg whites were used as cement. The centuries-old Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in the town of Baclayon is no exception. It is the first Spanish Jesuit mission and the oldest coral stone church in the region.

An extensive collection of religious icons and liturgical materials is on display in the museum beside the church. Baptismal and marriage records handwritten in Spanish are kept here. Outstanding is the “Misa Baclayana,” an old musical score believed to date back to the 1800s, which was discovered just a few years ago. Intricately written with red ink made from achuete on huge parchments with carabao hide covers, the hymnals or cantorals have been revived and now form a part of the repertoire of the award-winning Loboc Children’s Choir. The Baclayon pipe organ, which was also just recently restored, is said to be the only one of its kind and the third oldest pipe organ in the country.

Baclayon means “walking distance,” Cecile explains, referring to the distance of the town from Tagbilaran, about seven kilometers away. To this day, schoolchildren traverse the distance from their homes to school on foot. Tricycles are a popular mode of transportation as well as the habal-habal, a converted motorcycle that can carry as many as six back riders on an extended wooden plank.

You can ride a habal-habal from the public market in the town of Corella that will take you to the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Canapnapan.

The tarsier, the world’s smallest primate, is nocturnal, solitary and territorial. A single tarsier needs at least a hectare of space. They do not belong in a cage. They commit suicide in captivity. At the sanctuary where at least 10 tarsiers have been sighted, they are left to thrive in their natural habitat.

Loboc, one of the 47 towns in the island province of Bohol, is well known for its Loboc River Cruise, a popular tourist attraction. The Travel Village premium lunch buffet and leisurely cruise down the river, while being entertained by the smooth and mellow voice of a female vocalist accompanied by a single male guitarist, was a real treat. The first time I took the river cruise some years back, I was delighted to see young boys swinging from the coconut palm trees on the river banks and splashing down into the water with glee just as our boat passed.

This time, I saw a cable car crossing above the river. There’s now a zip line there also. That should be a thrilling way to view the passing scene below.

On the border between the towns of Loboc and Bilar is a two-kilometer stretch of tall mahogany trees that were planted by volunteers including schoolchildren some years ago. It is a perfect model of a successful environmental protection and reforestation effort. The dense canopy provides a cool shade over that segment of the winding road that leads to the famous Chocolate Hills in the town of Carmen.

At the Blood Compact commemorative shrine are Jingjing Romero, Reia Retugal, Victor Sevilla, Deni Rose Afiridad, Lito Cinco, the author Julie Alegre, Sam Marcelo, Robbie Pangilinan, Anton de los Reyes, and Amadis Ma. Guerrero

The almost perfect cone-shaped mounds, which are in fact grass-covered limestone, are estimated to number from about 1,268 to 1,776, of varying heights, from 30 to 120 meters high. When they turn brown during the dry season, they appear like “chocolate kisses” scattered on the countryside. It was the start of the rainy season at the time of our visit so the mounds of “chocolate” had turned to mint. It was drizzling as we negotiated the 200 steps up to the viewing deck where we made a wish as we rang the giant bell at the top. Then, it was time to head back to the resort.

Henann Resort at Alona Beach, formerly Alona Palm Beach Resort, is the newest acquisition of Henann Resorts, the same owner and operator of Boracay Regency Beach Resort and Spa, Boracay Garden Resort and Regency Lagoon Resort. From Boracay, they also bring to Bohol their famous restaurant, Christina’s, which offers both local and international cuisine. They accept online reservations and presently offer a soft opening promo, at P9,240 net per night inclusive of complimentary Filipino or American breakfast for two. The offer is valid until Sept. 30.

We were back in our villa when it started to pour. It did not matter. The rain was like a gift from the heavens. Feeling pampered by the creature comforts provided in our room, we were content to cocoon, and simply do nothing.

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For reservations, visit www.henann.com. For inquiries, call 491-3627, 523-1234 local 607 (38) 502-9141 to 44, or e-mail manila@henann.com.