Guam: Feel right at home

It gets a little confusing.

You take the Philippine Air Lines flight to Guam late at night, and just as you’re falling into a deep sleep the captain announces that you’re almost there. You land in a near-empty airport at 4 a.m., and after the American immigration officers decide you are not a security threat, you emerge in the United States’ easternmost territory (“Where America’s day begins”) and ask:

“Are we there yet?”

Guam has the same weather as Manila, the same foliage, and the people could be the same ones you see at the mall back home. But the roads are wider, there are more trees  way more trees  and less congestion. The air is cleaner, the road traffic more manageable, and the population a lot less stressed.

Two Lovers’ Point is particularly gorgeous, with a romantic history to go with the view. According to the legend, star-crossed Chamorro lovers leapt to their deaths from that cliff, Spanish soldiers in hot pursuit.

It’s Manila in a parallel universe where it’s quiet, there is no public transportation because cars are cheap, and people follow traffic rules. In short, an American version of Manila.

According to Ernie Galito, deputy general manager of the Guam Visitors Bureau, the top attractions of Guam are the culture, the beach, and the shopping. Guam takes pride in its Chamorro culture, whose traditions have been handed down on the island for centuries. Chamorro culture has survived Spanish colonialism  Magellan’s fleet landed in Guam just days before they arrived in the Philippines, the Japanese occupation in World War II, and American rule since the 1940s. 

Apparently historians are not sure where the Chamorro people came from originally, but it would not be surprising to find that they’re from Southeast Asia. There are obvious similarities between the Chamorro and Filipino cultures, and plenty of intermarriage between the two ethnic groups. 

Remember that TV ad where the balikbayan grandmother keeps saying, “Walang ganyan sa States”? (We don’t have that in the States.) The mantra of my trip was, “Meron din kami niyan sa Pilipinas.” (We have that in the Philippines.)

Consider our visit to the Gef Pago Culture Village, a showcase of Chamorro culture. In the first hut our guide held up a familiar object. “This is a coconut.”

I thought, “My people are from Bicol, dear, we put coconut in everything.”

Luxury shopping in Guam: Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo and more

“It was hard work getting the meat out of the coconut,” she said, “because they had no electric graters. Instead they used this...”

“Pangkayod!” (a sharp implement for grating coconut) I yelled silently.

Guam has beautiful beaches with deep blue waters and blazing sunshine. It’s kind of like being in Cebu. They do have some added attractions  you can ride the decommissioned Atlantis Submarine and take a spectacular tour of underwater marine life.

Two Lovers Point is particularly gorgeous, with a romantic history to go with the view. According to the legend, star-crossed Chamorro lovers leapt to their deaths from that cliff, Spanish soldiers in hot pursuit. But before the lovers jumped, they “tied their long, shining black hair in a single knot. Now they were united, inseparable... Soft moonlight caressed the lovers’ journey as they leapt to their fate,” says the official marker. 

Today couples come to Two Lovers Point to swear that not even death can part them. (Fine. I adore you, but you’re not tying yourself to my hair.) They write their vows on luggage tags that they affix to the wall  a contemporary twist on an age-old tale. 

Pinoys view shopping as a competitive sport, and Guam has an impressive range of playing fields, from luxe to mass market. All the high-end brands are represented at DFS Galleria, and prices are seven percent lower than in Hong Kong. I noticed that Guamanians tend to dress very casually  beach wear and flip-flops  but the staff at the luxury stores are friendly and not at all judgmental. 

Luxury shopping in Guam: Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo and more

Testament to Pinoy shopping expertise: Lucio Tan and Henry Sy own malls in Guam. Bargain hunters can knock themselves out at Guam Premier Outlet, which has Ross, Macy’s, and a host of other stores. I know a Filipino journalist who works in Guam  her hobby is scouring Ross for marked-down branded items. Every day.

“Guam’s economy is independent of the US and more engaged with Asia,” says Victoriano Lo, VP and general manager of Goodwind Travel, PAL’s sales agent. Eighty percent of Guam’s income comes from tourism. Twenty-eight percent of the population is Filipino  it was election season, and every candidate was claiming a Filipino connection  and 80 percent of them work in service industries. The largest group, Mr. Lo said, is Kapampangan. 

With the impending transfer of 7,000 marines from the American base in Okinawa, Guam is poised for an economic boom. At present the opportunities are in consolidating labor. During the actual military build-up, construction and related industries will thrive. After the transfer we can expect a large demand for entertainment, and opportunities for Filipino  performers, bands, and “Guamuki.” 

The requisite visit to the Micronesia Island Fair reminded us of the similarities between the Philippines and Guam  I could’ve sworn I was at a tiangge or bazaar in Manila. Okay, a bazaar with lots of open space, no crowds, and no salespersons getting in your face. At the restaurants there were always Filipino staff saying hello and noting how Guam is just like Manila. Hence my confusion: it was like staying at home, only more relaxing.