Baguio 2008: Still in full bloom

The sun was shining when we arrived in Loakan, the domestic airport of Baguio City, via the 45-minute Asian Spirit flight. As my dear friends Clang Garcia, Yvette Lee, Mark Ang and I boarded the van that would bring us to our lodgings, gray thickets of clouds hovered like phantoms above us. A sudden drizzle pleasantly greeted us when we finally got to our destination. The cool, crisp mountain weather certainly brought fresh colors, flavors and dramatic sights worth experiencing.

Notwithstanding the fickle-mindedness of the weather, we had an unforgettable sojourn. We sought warm shelter at the cozy and homey Manor at Camp John Hay that reminded us of the log cabins in Birchtree Hill, South Korea; Mala Mala Game Reserve in South Africa; and Aspen in Colorado. The scent of the fragrant pine trees in the surroundings was intoxicating. Baguio certainly has this allure that nobody can’t resist. Each annual trip to the Panagbenga Flower Festival, now on its 13th year, is a time for renewal because the visit brings forth new life and security at a time when all its flowers are abloom and the entire community is united in spirit — a feast for the eyes and soul.

The mammoth crowd converged at the city center of Baguio to witness the much- awaited Panagbenga Festival where flower power reigned supreme. Excitement was so thick one could actually slice it in the scene of revelry. As the heart--stomping drums were beating to the music of the parade down the historic and nostalgic Session Road, a bridal car bedecked with flowers mistakenly drove through the main avenue thinking the floral ensembles were intended for his passenger garbed in matrimonial attire. The crowd gamely directed the vehicle to the Baguio Cathedral.

Finally the sirens of the “flowery” police cars and motorcycles heralded the start of the spectacular parade with the theme song of  Pinoy Big Brother played live by children’s lyre bands. It was truly touching to witness these precocious kids actively participating in traditions of our rich culture.

The PMA band with clarinets, bugles, nand drums took center stage in their attractive military outfits in blue, white and bright yellow, as they performed with confidence. City government officials led by the indefatigable and youthful Mayor Reinaldo Bautista led his team as well as Japanese, Korean groups, schools, universities and corporate sponsors.

Even men whose bodies were painted with environmental themes and Koreans dressed in the motif of  Jewel in the Palace grabbed the attention of the audience. A statue of the UP Oblation joined the parade, surrounded by colorful flowers. Following it were a sea of men and women in Mardi Gras-inspired costumes. Hovering above the revelers was a helicopter flying low as it rained confetti that added more gaiety to the celebration.   

The next day we witnessed the most spectacular floral floats I have ever seen. Over 1.5 million spectators graced the event with 34 floral floats. Even the drizzle didn’t dampen the spirits of the participants and the spectators. Umbrellas of all colors and prints mushroomed everywhere. The most magnificent floats were the ones of Purefoods, Smart, ABS CBN, LBC, Nescafe, and Mighty Bond.

During the celebration of Panagbenga, we stayed at the Camp John Hay (CJH) Manor, the city’s premier address. The Manor has 177 well-appointed rooms inclusive of 53 suites and offers five-star service and accommodations. Before the end of the year, an additional 150 rooms will be completed according to gracious general manager Heinrich Maulbecker. The 19th Tee restaurant will also be operational soon to serve the most delicious fast-food, burgers and milkshakes that one can enjoy while watching the sunset overlooking the impeccable golf course. Of course, a stay in CJH is never complete without playing a round of golf with Jeric Hechanova, the dashing manager of the CHJ Golf and Country Club who has made seven holes-in-one at his youthful age.

Perched on a grove of wooded hillsides and hiking trails, the rustic four-story edifice allows a dramatic view of the Cordillera mountain range. Built of cedar wood and stone, the secluded luxury retreat manor evokes feelings of warmth and cheer.

 All-day dining at chef Billy King’s Le Chef at the Manor is a delightful epicurean experience. New additions to the intercontinental menu include authentic Indian cuisine like Machhli and Jhinga Tikka (masala marinated salmon with bell pepper and prawns) Murgh makhani (tender chicken simmered in honey and cashew paste and Abe E’ bahar) Pasliua Nazakat (pineapple and mustard oil-marinated lamb chops). My favorites are the marinated salmon and roasted prawn salad in creamy balsamic dressing, delectable pan-fried Chilean sea bass in ginger saffron sauce and the fresh fruits and chewy mallows dipped in white chocolate fondue.

Inside the Camp John Hay complex can also be found the Italian restaurant Cantinetta, Waffles Pand Starbucks. Add to this of course the nearby Filling Station and Mile Long complex that houses Little Johns, Dencio’s and Everything Nice. There are also shopping outlets and an extensive commissary selling imported chocolates, milk, candy and basic necessities.

Camp John Hay COO Freddie Alquiros is also a force at the recent Panagbenga as he co-chaired the festival. With Mayor Bautista and Alquiros, they proved that they are definitely tourism champions with a great vision and mission for the sustainable progress of Baguio through strategic plans of action. Besides providing the basic services for the residents and tourists of the city like health, sanitation and education, Mayor Bautista is taking his role as “The Dad” of the city very seriously. He has successfully imposed a curfew of 7 p.m. for minors below 17  years of age. He has received an influx of e-mails from parents who are grateful that they are now able to have dinner with their children as the safety and security of these minors are protected. If there are rock concerts or parties, they can always secure a permit from the mayor. This is one way for him to be in touch with the events in his city. Session Road is now geared to attract the older, more subdued crowd as cozy cafes, acoustic music, fine dining restaurants and coffee shops abound.

“Session Road in Bloom” is another traditional event wherein the whole stretch is closed to traffic to accommodate flower and flower product stalls. Sidewalk cafes and food outlets are set up in the city’s main thoroughfare while entertainers perform in selected areas of the road.  For the younger and more adventurous crowd, the street parties, rock concert venues, and beer joints have been relocated to the Abrao Area which is strategically located near the police station.

The mayor is seriously embarking on a cultural renaissance to unfold in the City of Pines as Burnham Park has been turned over to the city and has a P40-million fund for rehabilitation. Through the digital revolution, the first interactive museum will be built in the Mines View Area.  Last Valentine’s Day, the city had fluvial flower floats in the middle of Burnham Lake, with a lavish stage where ballerinas performed. All these preparations are being put into place for the coming centenary of Baguio City in September 2009.

Baguio City never fails to amaze me. The old-world charm is felt, albeit mixing merrily with modern modalities. Camp John Hay exudes that combination of old and new magic, elegance in state-of-the art setting. And with the Panagbenga festival at the center stage, the people’s tradition and culture are preserved, as if to make sure that Baguio will always be in bloom, season after season.

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For more info, call Camp John Hay Manor at 845-0892 or log on to www.campjohnhayhotels.com or e-mail at cjhmanor@skynet.net. Asian Spirit Flies to Baguio everyday except Thursday and Saturday.

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E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.