There’s more to Aklan than beaches

Travel preferences have become more varied. If in the past, people flocked to the big cities to experience the culture of urban living, travelers today are looking for alternative experiences. What natives consider usual and ordinary have become the main attractions for the traveler who has seen it all. The seasoned traveler is in a constant search of the authentic feel of a locality. After all, in a globalized world, many cities worldwide offer similar goods and experiences. The jaded veteran tourist recognizes this, and may opt for a destination that is off the tourist trail to be able to experience and learn something new. This explains the popularity of the chambre d’ hote experience, for example, in France. Travelers purposely seek out-of-the-way farmhouses and chateaus for croissants baked from scratch, homemade vin de table aged in rustic cellars, and a genuine taste of the local life. Unfortunately, however, the intrepid traveler may feel that he is running out of places to visit. The popularity of "Lonely Planet" sites has made even the most unlikely spots teem with tourists.

Of the 7,107 islands of the Philippines, a lot of them are still unknown to tourists. Kalibo in Aklan, famous for its ati-atihan, is otherwise known as a jump-off point to the beaches of Boracay. Some sandal-clad Caucasian tourists on the Philippine Airlines flight were on their way there, and a seatmate on the plane asked in detail how long it would take to get to Boracay. Apparently a sun-worshipper, his main concern was to hit the beaches as soon as possible. However, aside from the beaches, I discovered that Aklan has something different to offer.

Apart from the excitement generated during ati-atihan season, Kalibo is a sleepy town with a relaxed and friendly feel. We were billeted at the Sampaguita Hotel, popular even among local residents for its well-stocked aquarium and Christmas shop that sells holiday trinkets and gifts all year round. The hotel is built alongside the beach, so one has a choice of bathing in the ocean or taking a dip in the swimming pool.

A quick rest stop and we were off to Balete, Aklan. A leisurely drive through well-paved roads gave us a view of well-kept houses – many of them with orchid stands laden with multi-colored blooms, and an occasional roadside stand of assorted fresh fruits. Lush greenery provided a soothing balm to the eyesight, and an unexpected splash of vivid color drew attention to an occasional flowering bush or tree. Definitely, the sights were a welcome change from the gray, grime-covered scenery of the metropolis.

Lunch at the home of former congresswoman Gabrielle Calizo in Balete did not disappoint. Female crabs with bright red-orange fat; translucent oysters with their sweet natural juices resting on shells, and freshly steamed prawns told us that we were indeed in Aklan – a place known for its excellent and generous seafood bounty. The dining area was built beside a creek, and after a sumptuous meal like this, a siesta is in order, what with the steady whispers of the flowing water. Ah, the simple pleasures of an uncomplicated life!

The highlight of the trip, however, was a visit to the newly built Kabuhian Center in Balete. Kabuhian is the local word for kabuhayan or livelihood. It is also the name of a facility built atop a hill, which is envisioned to promote and showcase native Aklanon crafts. "This center will further enhance the renowned creativity, exquisite skills and fine craftsmanship of Aklanons while enriching our province’s modern heritage," said former Representative Gabrielle Calizo, who conceptualized the project with the support of the municipal government of Balete. Aklan, after all, is well known for its beautiful piña cloth that is prized for its delicacy and intricate embroidery.

Much effort goes in making piña cloth. It is a painstaking process that entails scraping fiber from pineapple leaves to separate the fiber, hand-knotting and weaving. There are no shortcuts or machines that can do the work, thus, the cloth cannot be mass-produced. To ensure that the craft is not lost, the process of making piña is taught in public elementary schools.

Watching the ladies at the center demonstrate the stages of piña weaving was a lesson in patience. With it came a renewed appreciation that the piña cloth is, indeed, a work of art born out of perseverance.

Although much of the focus during our visit to the Kabuhian Livelihood Center was on the piña cloth making process, the facility also featured a display of other products. These included furniture with modern designs, abaca and buri craft, and novelty items. The goal is to make the facility a center for agri-tourism that will showcase Aklanon horticulture, agriculture, aqua-culture, industrial, and culinary technology. By promoting local industry, the dream is to provide employment for Aklanons and to promote as well as preserve local arts, crafts and traditions.

Our visit ended with a remarkable evening concert at the St. Raphael the Archangel Parish Church in Balete, Aklan. We leisurely walked through the quiet Balete town streets after the concert and strains of music sung by tenor Nolyn Cabahug and soprano Benilda Cuales-Rasco played back in memory. With the cool night air perfumed by faint whiffs of dama de noche came the thought: how wonderful it is to be able to experience this exquisite simplicity.