Kota Kinabalu: An ecotourism paradise

Borneo has long nourished the world’s dreams and fantasies. History records that over a thousand years ago, emperors from China journeyed to this strange, enigmatic land, revitalized themselves with soup honed from swallows’ nests, and returned with buckles carved from the casque of the sacred hornbill.

In the mid-14th century, it was an Arab voyager, Ibn Batuta, who first described the majestic Mt. Kinabalu as "the great Mountain of Clouds." Italian chronicler Pigafetta set foot on the Muslim Sultanate of Brunei in 1521 when he accompanied Magellan’s fleet on the first circumnavigation of the world. He raved of the resplendent carpets, silks, porcelain and brass canons adorning the Sultan’s palace, but what he found even more fascinating were the brilliantly disguised leaf insects of the rainforest.

Today, Kota Kinabalu, or "KK" as it is popularly known, the capital of Sabah, is a resort city of exciting contrasts – progressive and peaceful with modern infrastructure, like five-star resorts and stunning eco-tourism attractions to delight the entire family, honeymooners, corporate clients and guests. Dynamic Sabah Tourism head Gordon Yapp enthused that their booming tourism industry has attracted Europeans, Americans, Australians, Koreans, Japanese and many other visitors from the Asian region, who comprise over 90 percent of their loyal guests and patrons. Located just 90 minutes away from Manila, Kota Kinabalu is a gateway to an exotic paradise in Malaysian Borneo. The dramatic landscape of the east Malaysian state of Sabah will satisfy even the most adrenaline-charged traveler. It boasts the largest caves in the world, the biggest flower in the rafflesia, Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Southeast Asia, virgin rainforests, world-class conservation and wildlife sanctuaries, remote jungles, exquisite dive sites, and many world-class golf courses set amid breath taking scenery. You can play in the city, by the sea, high above sea level surrounded by tropical rainforests or closer to earth at the fringe of lush vegetation.

My traveling companions, led by El Camino Travel and Events’ Vernon Prieto, Loida Rapal, and Noah Manarang, and my two nieces Alex and Sam Dayrit flew to KK via Malaysian Airlines. The two precocious kids declared the trip a great way to end their summer vacation, as they looked forward to sharing with their classmates all that they would encounter.

We marveled at the rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, measuring over a meter in diameter. How appropriate then that it could be found in Sabah where nature is at its finest. In fact, the resort where we stayed is blessed with over 400 acres of lush, tropical vegetation and jungle.

At the point where jungle meets the sea, overlooking the glorious Dalit Beach, is Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort. This jewel of a resort can claim to be a world of its own, yet it is only 40 minutes away from the airport.

Regina Sulit-Lain, gracious communications manager, welcomed us warmly at the grand lobby. It was interesting to know that Regina’s parents are Filipinos and in 1963 were awarded citizenship in Malaysia. Regina toured us around the property where the activities available for the family seem endless. At its front, is one of the most pristine beaches in Asia, while at its rear is Mt. Kiulu, handmaiden to the mighty Mt. Kinabalu. Here is a resort that gives you everything you expect and deserve from a Shangri-La.

Over dinner at the Naan, an elegant Indian restaurant with impeccable food and service in the hotel, we discussed the meaning of Shangri-La. It was a poignant tale of Conway’s human quest for happiness and its consummation at a secret destination in the heart of Asia called the Lost Horizon that inspired the story of Shangri-La.

Hidden within Tibet’s uncharted glacial peaks, Shangri-La is a mystical mountain lamasery unknown to the outside world, a carefully crafted Asian paradise, a sanctuary of moderation and grace. As Conway learns the ultimate secret of Shangri-La, which is an elixir for longevity, for here ancient eastern customs are met with the astoundingly modern, familiar comforts of the west.

It is rare to be able to stay at a resort that allows you to enjoy the highlights of the country you are visiting without having to travel further than its grounds. The peace and beauty of Rasa Ria, where the chorus of birds mingles with soothing sounds of the sea, exert their magic on visitors. The art of lounging, like lazing by the pool, having a rejuvenating massage or aromatherapy wrap, can be perfected here, as well as the challenge to go horseback riding on Argentinean horses by the beach, play golf in the adjacent Dalit Golf and Country Club, take a helicopter ride to sightsee from the sky, cruise to the nearby islands on the resort’s catamaran, bump along the great outdoors on the resort-organized ATV Safari, windsurf, or hike on a trail through the secondary forest of the nature reserve and see the orangutans. The nature reserve not only assists in the rehabilitation of orangutans, but provides a home for other species, such as deer, monkeys, pheasants, porcupines, the huge-eyed slow loris, pangolins, pythons and many species of birds, squirrels and bats, as well as rare Borneo orchids and pitcher plants.

Ester Marcaida, resort executive assistant manager, graciously said that the attentive and genuinely friendly service has won Rasa Ria awards from leading tourism publications and the Sabah Tourism board.

From the Rasa Ria, we proceeded to another jewel of a resort, the Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort, located just 10 minutes away from the airport and city center. Set amid 25 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens on the edge of the South China Sea, the exquisitely appointed guestrooms reflect the relaxed, tropical lifestyle of Sabah. All feature private balconies and panoramic views. Communications director Tulip Noorazyze and assistant communications manager Elaine Rajah said, "Perhaps no other destination in Asia offers such a wealth of recreational activities." Alex and Sam truly enjoyed the kid’s club, complete with Playstation, arcade games and weeklong activities. There are two free-form swimming pools, four tennis courts and a nine-hole pitch and putt golf course. You can go sailing, windsurfing, water skiing, snorkeling, scuba diving and white-water rafting. Exotic Asian and Western culinary fare is delightful at the Garden Terrace. At the Italian restaurant Peppino, we had homemade pasta in duck stew and truffle oil, succulent rack of lamb with mint jelly and the signature dish, chocolate soufflé. Its excellent food, impeccable service and attention to detail garnered for it the best restaurant award in Kota Kinabalu. For live entertainment, we partied at the Borneo Lounge and Bar, singing disco tunes with the band and dancing the night away.

We watched the sunset over the horizon from the white sandy beach along the oceanfront and thanked the good Lord for the many blessings. As a culminating activity for the trip, we tried the one-of-a-kind sea walking wherein we took a walk underwater clad only in our swimsuits, a helmet resembling that of an astronaut and heavy boots. It was a surreal encounter with the denizens of the deep as we explored the enchanting marina without having to get our hair wet.

Truly, the Lost Horizon exists for all those who wish to experience it – at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria and Tanjung Aru in Kota Kinabalu.

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For package tours to Sabah, contact El Camino Travel & Events at 521-1588.

For Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria, e-mail inquiries to Regina Sulit-Lain at regina.sulit@shangri-la.com. For inquiries on Tanjung Aru, e-mail Elain Rajah at TAH@shangri-la.com. Visit its website at www.shangri-la.com

Malaysian Air flies to Kota Kinabalu every Saturday and Wednesday. For details, call 867-8764 and 525-9404.