Breathless in Bohol

All roads led to Bohol recently for the Sandugo Festival celebrated yearly to commemorate the blood compact between Miguel Lopez de Legaspi and Bohol chieftain Sikatuna. Highlights of the celebration include the Sandugo street dancing parade; an international filmfest; a traditional Filipino carnival; a martial arts festival; the Miss Bohol Sandugo beauty pageant, plus dozens of other exciting activities.

From the airport, I proceeded to my favorite event of the Sandugo Fiesta: the street dancing competition featuring around 100 children clad in eclectic costumes. This year’s theme was "Sandugo Goes International." Ethel Timbol, Winnie Velasquez, PTA’s Jane Jarabe, Cristy Jocson, Fiel Velasco and photographer Ed Enriquez were wonderful company as we toured the sights of Bohol and sampled the delicacies.

The countryside’s pride is the 405-year-old Baclayon Church, which has a small museum with artifacts from the 1500s. Another old church exuding Old World charm is the more than 300-year-old Dauis Church. The Sandugo Shrine is historically interesting because it is the site of the blood compact that sealed the treaty of friendship between Legaspi and Sikatuna. Another must-see is the underground pool of Hinagdanan Cave.

A river safari on clean, mangrove-edged Loboc River is the best way to do lunch in the island. Aside from the usual pump boats, a few floating restaurants ply the waters. After completing the 30-minute cruise, you’ll end up at another attraction, the Busay Falls, which offers an exhilarating swim.

Undoubtedly, the Chocolate Hills remain Bohol’s major attraction. About an-hour-and-45-minute ride from Tagbilaran, this area consists of 1,268 haycock hills that resemble giant chocolate mounds. During summer, these grass-covered limestone hills turn brown, transforming the area into rows of chocolate "Kisses." By they way, the Boholanos are famous for a delicacy made of eggs and peanuts, and I had some Star Kisses in my bag which we snacked on while touring the Chocolate Hills.

But there’s definitely more to Bohol than the Chocolate Hills; there’s Bilar, for one. Bilar is a three-kilometer man-made forest which is sanctuary to the Tarsier (world’s smallest monkey). The size of a human fist, the tarsier lives on the hills of Corella, some 10 kilometers from Tagbilaran.

Bohol also offers some of the best dive sites in the Philippines. Through the gracious PTA general manager Nixon Kua, we were able to visit a property of the Philippine Tourism Authority, the pristine Balicasag Dive Resort, an island 30-45 minutes away from Panglao. This "Special Interest Resort" has been operating since 1989. The PTA together with the Philippine Navy is promoting underwater sports and maintaining a marine life sanctuary, which is a model for marine conservation, ecological preservation and tourism.

The island was identified as a fish sanctuary by the Marine Conservation Staff of Siliman University. It’s also a photographer’s paradise. George Tapan, Scott "Gutsy" Tuason, Dr. Sam Ang have all captured its splendor. Divers can also check out the marine sanctuary where they can feed hundreds of jackfish found in this area. The Black Forest on the east side of the island, a few minutes away by boat, is full of black corals and different varieties of fish. The Cathedral is a rock formation with wide openings and corals that resemble walls, making the place appear like a cathedral. Diver’s Haven is a drop-off with so many individual holes wherein divers can watch all sorts of beautiful fish passing by.

A major highlight of the sojourn was our stay at the beautiful Panglao Island Nature Resort, a world-class resort located just 15 minutes away from Tagbilaran City. Charming owners Babs and Fred Ong built the tropical paradise on the seaside of 12 hectares of natural terrain. From the bungalows that line the cliff, panoramic views of the sea and the garden can be enjoyed without obstruction. All cottages feature an outdoor Jacuzzi.

The swimming pool with Jacuzzi and a pool bar are perched on a cliff overlooking the bay. The open restaurant – with high-ceilinged nipa roof that includes a framed skylight – offers delectable continental, Filipino and Asian cuisine and has a bridge connecting it to the gazebo overlooking the gardens. A native cottage with tables and lounging chairs is a wonderful venue to relax and unwind. In the evenings, it’s nice to take a stroll along the shore under the starlit sky. I walked to the man-made island a few meters from the shore and came upon this realization: Breathtaking Bohol is a dream destination

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For Balicasag Island Dive Resort, call Philippine Tourism Authority at 524-2502 and 524-2495. For Panglao Island Nature Resort call at (02) 724-1051(Manila office) and Bohol office at (038) 411-5982 and 411-5875.

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E-mail the author at miladay@pacific.net.ph.