The Pen-ultimate Dinner

I had my first taste of a progressive dinner from the late Luisa Linsangan, editor of the top local women’s magazine in the Seventies. The idea was simple: A whole meal, from appetizer to soup to salad to main course to dessert to coffee or tea, would be taken in different places, with each course prepared by a different chef. It was an elegant way of slowly savoring the flavor and texture of each course, and with it, the ambiance of each place.

Luisa was a generous and indefatigable mentor, and I, her wide-eyed student, being a neophyte lifestyle writer fresh from an altogether different kind of learning milieu that was UP Diliman. I shared with her a thing or two about the isms of that era (feudalism, fascism, imperialism) while she taught me countless lessons about Manila’s society, both the high and the pretentious: On trips abroad, she would share a wealth of lore about culture and history, and I would make her laugh with trivia. Such as, on a tour of a castle in London, while she was struggling with her allergy, I asked her: Did you know that Anne Boleyn had three breasts? She laughed and coughed, and from then on, we both decided we would be roommates during familiarization tours for the press.

It was Luisa who, on a trip to Hong Kong in the Seventies, opened my eyes to the beauty and grandeur of The Peninsula Hong Kong. She pointed out how majestic The Lobby was, called cinquecento because its classical design was the style predominant in 16th-century Italy. "A trip to Hong Kong is never complete without taking afternoon tea at The Lobby," she explained as we sat down to order our tea and scones. The Lobby, with its soaring marble pillars, magnificent chandeliers and grand entrance staircase, seemed like a stage set out of something by Somerset Maugham.

Two decades later, I would taste my next progressive dinner, and where-else but in Luisa’s favorite hotel in Hong Kong, The Peninsula. That was last week, during the fam tour hosted by Cathay Pacific Airways and The Peninsula Hong Kong. This was my fourth stay at The Pen, but as in the first three visits, I still felt excited and was eager for surprises.

The most pleasant surprise came when Sian Griffiths, The Pen’s regional director for public relations, together with executive assistant manager Paul Tchen and public relations manager Lamey Chang, invited us to dinner. Where? "Let’s just meet at The Lobby," Sian smiled.

From there, we took a tour of The Spa where we saw state-of-the-art exercise equipment, jacuzzis, saunas, steam rooms, massage rooms, cold tubs, and the beauty salons operated by Clarins.

On to the pool area we went, and as we gazed at its classical Roman theme with columns, statues and niches giving it a palatial atmosphere, Sian announced that we would have our appetizers and champagne right there.

The salmon and mushroom canapés seemed even more tasty as we were told that during Valentine’s Day, this pool area is a most romantic setting with tables strictly for two complete with candlelight.

Up next we proceeded to the Presidential Suite, a series of rooms so elegant and opulent – and well secured.

The suite was designed with a guest like the President of the United States or the Queen of England in mind. So between the paintings at the reception area, you will see tiny holes that actually conceal hidden cameras for security purposes. Built according to American CIA and British MI5 specifications, the suite has a security guard room and includes direct access to the Pen’s helipad.

So who are the heads of state and celebrities who have stayed at the Presidential Suite? It is not within the Pen culture to name drop. But suffice it to say that its most recent occupant was Tom Cruise.

Here at the Peninsula Suite came our next course: Succulent layers of eggplant in a red bell pepper reduction with a hint of basil oil.

Next stop in our progressive dinner was Gaddi’s, The Pen’s supreme social setting and superb fine dining restaurant, renowned for its exemplary service, so Paul and Lamey reminded us over our main course. It was roasted turbot fish steak on a caper, octopus and black olive stew in lemon-butter sauce. Delicious, we sighed amid Christofle candlelight, as we listened to Sian talking about The Pen’s 75th anniversary next year, an event that already has them on their toes this early.

Named after Leo Gaddi, a chef who helped shape The Pen’s culinary excellence, Gaddi’s leaves a tasty memory on one’s palate.

Then down again through one of The Pen’s 25 elevators, we went up through another elevator exclusively leading to Felix. This place was named after Felix Bieger, the three-time GM of The Pen whose immense dedication and loyalty have reached legendary status. But as far as Philippe Starck junkies are concerned, Felix is The Pen’s most avante- garde, most hip place, with its wave walls and high-tech modern restrooms declaring: The Pen with all its classic elegance may be called The Grand Old Lady, but it is also The Child of the Future.

At Felix, we enjoyed its famous "5" dessert, composed of five different slices for our sweet tooth. Over at the Long Table which has been used as a catwalk for fashion shows at Felix, we met Dee Ann Tsurumaki, the chef whose fusion cuisine is a fave of the young society of Hong Kong.

We could have ended our progressive dinner with one of Felix’s collection of flavored vodkas, but then we promised: Next time. Every stay at The Pen, one always looks forward to the next.

(Next week: Flying high with Cathay)