Taming of The Last Frontier

Way back in 1964, my father, the late writer Renato "Katoks" Tayag, traveled around Central and Northern Luzon in his Renault 4L. With him were his buddy Abe Aguilar Cruz (then editor of Sunday Times Magazine, a.k.a. the father of restaurateur Larry Cruz) and the painter Roddy Ragodon, equipped only with brand new tires, a camera, their overnight bags and plenty of stories and puns to swap. All told, they traveled 1,300 kilometers of mostly bad roads through uncharted territory in a record-time of three days, crossing three ferries through Cagayan Valley, suffering 10 flat tires, sleeping in decrepit lodging houses, and gloating at the locals’ idea of luxury in those days as a bottle of ice-cold Coke (if they were lucky enough to find it in town.)

In the article he submitted to the Times about their trip, my father prophetically wrote: "Our one-car ‘rally’ through genuine Ilocano territory should be convincing proof that local tourism will not flourish without good roads and adequate hotel accommodations. And our tourist industry, as a dollar-earner, depends on local tourism as a base. The two should be developed hand in hand."

Back To The Future

Sometime late last year, Ramona "Mar" Lopez-Ty, chair of the Clark-based North Philippines Tourism Council (NPTC), broached the idea of Maryane and I joining her in a six-day expedition to the North early part of February 2002, which she was co-organizing with Presidential Assistant for North Luzon Renato V. Diaz, and with Ford Philippines pitching in some 12 vehicles for the trek (to be powered by Shell.) Being the footloose couple that we are, I readily agreed but jokingly setting a next-to-impossible condition that we’d go only if I get to drive my dreamboat of a vehicle, the Explorer Sport Trac. "I’ll try my best," said Mar. We did not know much of the preparation she had been doing the past year for this project. She has actually gone twice through the course of the caravan – mapping out the actual route of the trek; timing the traveling hours between points; coordinating with the local government units, armed forces, police and tourism officials; and most of all tapping the private and business sectors to provide the logistical support for food and lodging for the almost 600 participants. It was a herculean job for this indefatigable lady and no stone was left unturned.

Claude’s Dream Come True

On Feb. 5, four days before the start of the caravan, I got a text from Michelle Tayag, the able staff of Mar, saying I was assigned to drive a Sport Trac! Oh wow! I blinked, to make sure my mobile phone wasn’t playing a trick on me. But somehow I still got this nagging feeling and hesitation because of a recurring back problem (which emerges every time I come from trips to Manila), coupled with Maryane’s worry about not finding any clean toilets along the way. "Okay, since you’ve got your wish of driving a Sport Trac, I’ll accompany you only if it’s color red," she said coyly. Playing a numbers game, I said, "Sure," knowing we’d have a good one-in-seven chance of getting a color red (Sport trac is available in seven colors according to the brochure I’ve been keeping by my bedside.) Either way, she could always do any one of three options: a) wear a sarong and do it standing up by the roadside, just like how our grandmas did during their time; b) bring a potty along; and c) put on a disposable diaper.

D-Day

With crisp cool air greeting the early birds, a Mass was celebrated at the break of dawn of Sunday, Feb. 10, by singer/composer Fr. Chris Cadiang at the Challenger Field. In his brief yet very apt homily, Fr. Chris delivered a high-spirited send-off: "Anyone who goes on a journey to see the beauty of the earth is blessed by God."

Right after Mass, Michelle handed me the key to the Sport Trac. Finding my way to the parking lot, lo and behold – it was a Toreador Red! How lucky can one get? I felt like a red bull about to be let loose on the streets of Pamplona! Excitedly, I hopped on the pick-up and adjusted the ergonomic six-point power bucket seat to follow my every contour. Boy, did it fit snugly like an old shoe! It’s the most comfortable car seat I’ve ever sat on. What an auspicious beginning that was!

Game Ka Na Ba?

Assigned to ride with Maryane and I were New Zealander writer Catherine Clarke, wife of the Holiday Inn Mimosa general manager Andrew Langston, and a family friend, long-time London resident Odo Lazatin. There was ample room for our luggage in the cargo bed, but with an ice chest and enough provision to fill half a duty-free shop, we were fortunate the Sport Trac was fitted with an extendable cargo cage. That more than made up for the shopping the two pretty ladies did during the trip. But that’s getting ahead of the story.

From the Challenger Field, the 150-vehicle caravan proceeded to the Expo Filipino for proper assignments before take-off. Like a major military operation, we started off at precisely at 0600 hrs as originally planned. That set the standard for the rest of the six-day expedition. Everything went like clockwork. All throughout there was police escort to breeze us through each town. Marshals in scooters held onlookers at bay craning their necks for a better view of the convoy. An ambulance, several yellow Pinatubo Conquest Ford Ranger pick-ups and a wrecker were at the tail end acting as sweepers, making sure each and every one of the participating vehicles was accounted for. And when available, a Philippine Army helicopter hovered low above us scouting the area to prevent any possible untoward incident.

The Way To San Jose

Cruising out of Clark’s Mabalacat gate, we took the alternate northeastern route through Concepcion, Tarlac passing through Amorsoloesque idyllic landscape of rice fields and streams, then on to Muñoz, Nueva Ecija and finally San Jose City for our first pit stop after two hours of driving. Here, we had our first taste of the festive welcome, replete with a drum and bugle corps, streamers and colorful buntings. This same enthusiastic reception pervaded throughout the caravan. Actually, the farther up north we went, the more hearty and rousing reception was accorded us.

How Green Is My Valley

From San Jose City, the motorcade proceeded along the impressively well-maintained Maharlika Highway on to Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya where lunch awaited us at the Children’s Park at the Provincial Capitol, voted as the cleanest and greenest capitol in the country, and rightly so. As we negotiated Dalton Pass, site of one of the fiercest battles towards the end of World War II, the scenery changed dramatically, leaving behind us the great rice lands of the Central Plains. We have now entered the region known as Cagayan Valley, stretching all the way to Aparri some 375 kilometers up north. It is bordered by the Cordillera and Caraballo Mountains to the west and the Sierra Madre Ranges to the east. Rugged peaks and rain forests characterize Nueva Vizcaya’s terrain. It is where Mt. Pulog National Park, Luzon’s highest point, is located.

Stairway To Heaven (And Back)

A short dance program was performed for us during lunch at Bayombong’s Children’s Park, hosted by Gov. Rodolfo Agbayani. After a brief rest, we started off to Ifugao Province, the final destination on our first day. It seems quite a long way from where we started off, yet we’ve traveled only some 300 kilometers. When we got to Banaue Hotel and Youth Hostal, where a lot of us were billeted, we still had plenty of time to wash up and catch our breath and go sightseeing at the Viewpoint some 15 minutes away. About a third of the caravan proceeded to Kiangan where they would camp for the night and where dinner and a cultural show awaited us hosted by Gov. Teodoro Baguilat, Jr. and the Ifugao Tourism Council.

Banaue is a study in contrast. One marvels at the breathtaking panorama of the 2,000-year-old stone-walled rice terraces leading to the skies. The ancient Ifugaos who built these terraces used only primitive tools, yet they’ve ingeniously created an intricate system of irrigation, connecting distant rivers and creeks to water these fields, utilizing only the law of gravity. But somehow this engineering feat is lost in the present generation. If you ever wander into town, you’re in for a great disappointment. Lamentably, it’s a shanty of a place with the residents completely disregarding their surrounding. If they are not careful, this postcard-pretty UNESCO "Living Cultural Landscape" may just remain as that – a pretty place etched only in a postcard and nothing more. That may well be the last "wonder" of the world.

Day 2 – An Officer And A Gentleman

Waking up to a cool 16 degrees Celcius Monday morning, the caravan started right after breakfast, backtracking some 60 kilometers down to Bagabag. Getting back on the Maharlika Highway, we continued northwards to Magat Dam at Ramon, Isabela for our first stop. The Dam, known to be the highest in Asia, supplies some 540 megawatts for the Luzon grid. It also houses Camp Vizcarra Tourism Complex, where outdoor activities like swimming, fishing, boating and white-water rafting can be enjoyed. A sumptuous lunch of typical Isabelan cuisine was served us in the riverside picnic pavilion hosted by Mayor Ramon Vizcarra.

Right after, we motored off to Gamu, Isabela for a rolling tour of Camp Melchor F. dela Cruz (a.k.a Camp Upi, after its locality). With Brig. Gen. Rodolfo Galvarado at the helm, it has earned the distinction of being the Cleanest and Greenest Military Camp in the country. A heavily reforested hilly area, one gets the feel of being inside a private country club resort, complete with nine-hole golf course and driving range, tennis and basketball courts, a social hall, chapel and picnic area. Not just an environment-friendly camp, it is people-friendly as well. The facility is open for the public’s enjoyment.

At 1400 hrs, we moved on towards Tuguegarao City. Starting at Gamu, the highway runs parallel to the Cagayan River all the way to Aparri, bisecting the whole valley. Passing through rolling hills and verdant scenery, we reached Tumauni where we did a roundabout tour of the town, passing the 18th-century baroque St. Matthias Church. All throughout the motorcade route, schoolchildren lined the streets giving us a rousing cheer befitting a hero’s homecoming.

By 1530 hrs, we reached Tuguegarao City, the capital of Cagayan Province, where checked-in our respective hotels. An hour later after freshening up, off we went again to Peñablanca some 24 kms away to explore the Callao Caves and watch the flight of the Circadian bats by sunset. A site by the riverbed was reserved for the campers to stay the night. A mini trade fair, cultural show and dinner (consisting of 15 lechons!) was hosted by Gov. Edgar Ramones Lara, Mayor Washington Taguinod and the Cagayan Tourism Council.

Day 3 – Footprints In The Sand

After a restful night in Tuguegarao, we’ve rendezvoused with the campers at 1000 hrs and departed for our destination for the day, Pagudpod, Ilocos Norte. The 285+ kms we traversed that day was to be the longest single-stretch of traveling we did the whole trek, yet the most exhilarating. The road snakes through deep valleys and rolling hills, cutting through virgin forests before reaching Aparri, the northernmost tip of Cagayan. From there, one gets a glimpse of the Babuyan Channel, where the China Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, and a little bit further north lies the Batanes Islands. More scenic yet winding roads lead to Santa Praxedes, the last town before one crosses to Ilocos Norte. On this last stretch to Pagudpud town some 45 kms away, a breathtaking view of the Pasaleng Bay welcomes the visitor as one descends the Patapat Viaduct leading to the coastline of Pagudpud. This last route could rival the 101 Scenic Route in California. And that’s no mean claim!

Once reaching Villa del Mar Resort at Saud Beach, an Ilocano lunch of pinakbet, igado (pork meat and liver adobo) and a whole roasted calf greeted us motorists, hosted by Rep. Roque Ablan. Soon after, we found ourselves inching through the food stalls and trade fair set up specially for the caravan participants. My foursome group found the famed Iloco empanada irresistible (a must-try when in Ilocos!) We each had one (burp!)

The rest of the afternoon left most of us beachcombing. The Saud White Beach, arching the Bangui Bay, has the longest continuous powder-fine white sand beach in the country. It is touted as the Paradise of the North, and rightly so (may karapatan). It’s probably what Boracay looked like some 30 years ago – unspoiled and maintaining much of its pristine splendor. Hopefully it remains so.

By sunset, it was time to party! A live band concert was held by the beachfront. Dinner followed pretty soon, hosted by Gov. Bongbong Marcos and Mayor Marlon Sales (more pinakbet, bagnet [lechon kawali], ariosep [fresh seaweed salad], etc.) Again, we craved for a second round of the irresistible empanada. We made it to the foodstall just as the vendors were about to call it in (burrrrrrp!) Later in the evening, a cultural dance presentation was performed by the Saud Resort Dance Troupe.

Day 4 – Ok Nga Road

We had another restful night at the Saud Resort. My group, this time joined by Peter and Lily Lim (of Master Sardines) in a separate vehicle, was on the road again by 0630 hrs the following morning. Having skipped breakfast, we left ahead of everybody, wanting to make side trips along the way. Some 20 minutes later, we were climbing up the hill to Cape Bojedor Lighthouse at Burgos town. Though the all-brick structure is run-down, its former glory is still much in evidence. The potential to restore it to its past splendor is quite promising. Its site, oh what a site to behold, gives a spectacular view of the Bangui Bay extending out to the China Sea!

Continuing our way southwards, one notices the first-class roads that we run on (the North Luzon Expressway seems like a secondary road in comparison, and I am being kind at that). Not only are they well-paved and well-maintained, but they’re also litter-free. This was to be the rule in all Ilocolandia.

From Burgos, we passed through the salt-making town of Pasuquin, and then Bacarra, where the bell tower ruins are still worth the detour. Just before hitting Laoag, Maryane had a sudden craving for tuyo (dried fish) and sinangag (fried garlic rice) for breakfast. Being the dutiful husband, I had to provide even if it had to take a miracle from heaven when ordered by the commander. Luckily, we chanced upon Macy’s Diner as we entered Laoag proper. My bet was, given the slim chance this "American" diner would be serving tuyo, I could always send someone run to a sari-sari store to buy it and have it cooked. Lucky, lucky me, though the diner didn’t have it on their menu, they had it in stock for the staff meal, and were kind enough to accommodate our request. "We’d just charge you the Filipino breakfast," said the kind waitress attending us. That saved the day for me. (Whew, that was a close call!) As for the rest of us, we had another round of pinakbet and bagnet, which weren’t bad at all. Of course, our foreign legionnaire Catherine had her usual bacon and eggs. By the way, Macy’s Diner serves everything one expects of the American counterpart, and more. Owned by a Chinese couple, it also serves extensively Chinese and Filipino dishes, in air-conditioned spic and span interiors to boot.

While having breakfast, we saw the caravan pass us. By 1100 hrs, we caught up with them at the Capitol in Vigan. Still early for lunch, we decided to proceed to the public market to look for the abel iloko or hand-woven fabrics the province is known for. Boy, did the ladies have a heyday at the market! After that, we found our way to the post office on Bonifacio Street, where, on a tip from my food writer friend Micky Fenix, right next to it sits a karinderia serving the best sinanglao in town. It is actually a clear-broth beef soup, not quite like bulalo as it has chunks of the oxblood, innards and slabs of brisket and flavored with vinegar. We had a bowl each (burp!). From there, we walked to Crisologo Street, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where colonial houses line both sides of the cobblestone street. On Plaza Burgos, the aroma of freshly-baked bibingka led us to Royal Bake Shop. We bought one for the road. We forgot all about the rest of the caravan with all the eating and shopping we did.

Proceeding southwards, we caught up again with the rest at the City of San Fernando (La Union) botanical garden. From there, the caravan split up into two, with the first group ascending to Baguio City via the Naguilian Road, while the other, going further south to Agoo to take the Marcos Highway. By 1730 hrs, we all met up again in Camp John Hay. An American West-style dinner (chili con carne, hot dogs and fried chicken) awaited us at the Scout Hill, complete with a bonfire, live-band entertainment and line dancers in cowboy hats.

Two bonfires were set up to keep us warm the whole night through.

Home for us that evening was at the spanking new CJH Manor Hotel managed by a familiar face, Noli T.B. Reyes, formerly of Holiday Inn Mimosa. Its service and furnishings are impeccable, while its in-house restaurant is run by Le Souffle. What more could one ask for?

Day 5 – Romancing The Road

We awoke the following morning not just with the scent of pines but also with love in the air (being Feb. 14). The hefty breakfast buffet served us powered us through another long day ahead.

Via the newly upgraded Marcos Highway, the caravan glided down the scenic road in a breeze. Before long, we were in Damortiz to rendezvous with the rest, motoring along the Lingayen Gulf coast through the Pangasinan towns of Dagupan and Lingayen, where lunch was served us by the beachfront, just behind the pre-war Provincial Capitol.

Right after, we continued to Alaminos, site of the Hundred Islands. From hereon, it was southwards all the way through Magsaysay country, Zambales, home to the sweetest mangoes in the land (the Batungbacal Farms come to mind). A scenic drive all along well-paved roads, it offers a contrasting view of the deep blue China Sea to one’s right and the green lush Zambales Ranges to the left.

We arrived at our final destination for the day, the Oceanview Resort in Olongapo, just in time to watch a beautiful sunset. A Hawaiian-inspired luau party was hosted by dynamic duo Olongapo Mayor Kate Gordon and Tourism Secretary Richard Gordon.

Day 6 – Ladies On Top

Somehow, there was an inexplicable excitement in the air on our last leg of the caravan. Is it from the heady experience we’ve had the past five days, or the anticipation of finally going home triumphantly from a very successful trip?

Right after breakfast, we started off for a briefing at the multi-purpose Olongapo Convention Center and rolling tour of the city. Having used the rest room at the Center, Maryane and Catherine found it quite impressive how unbelievably clean and well-maintained it was. And so with the rest of the city – it’s orderly and litter-free. They’ve concluded that it could be only credited to the good "housekeeping" skills of two ladies on top of things in the city – Mayor Kate Gordon and her Vice Mayor Cynthia Cajudo.

By mid-morning, we had a good two hours of leisure time inside Subic Bay Freeport Zone before lunch. There was a score of activities in store for us: duty free shopping, jungle trekking or watching the dolphin show at Ocean Adventure. In our case, we did an ocular inspection of the different hotels in the base. By this time, my two lady companions could very well pass for experts of the National Sanitation and Hygiene Board, if there exist such a thing. Well, many passed their scrutiny with flying colors.

A well-organized al fresco lunch was held at the Tappan Park, hosted by different Subic restaurants. Several tent stations were set up and the food was served in an orderly fashion. A short program, emceed by Ken Peralta, SBMA promotions manager, was presented us during lunch.

Home At Last

By 1500 hrs, we were all revved up to depart for home, Clark Field. In Dinalupihan, Bataan we veered to the left of the Olongapo-Gapan Highway and came out to Floridablanca, Pampanga. We were now on the eastern side of the Zambales Ranges. Soon after, we were deep into laharlandia, Porac. Before we knew it, we were at Arayat Boulevard in Angeles City, then on to MacArthur Highway, entering Clark via the main gate past the Bayanihan Park.

Finally, we were back at the Challenger Field where we started off six mornings ago. A bit exhausted but not quite. The air was filled with a celebratory mood for a triumphant and safe homecoming. We were feted by a cocktail reception by CDC president and CEO Dr. Manny Angeles and the Pagcor. An awarding ceremonies for the "survivors" capped our caravan. We went, we saw, we conquered the North victoriously.

A Movable Feast

Altogether, the 600-strong participants of the North Philippines Expedition covered some 1,700 kilometers, with a 150-vehicle-long convoy, passing through 98 towns and cities spread across 13 provinces in four regions of Luzon (whew!) Organized by NPTC chair Ramona Lopez Ty and Undersecretary Renato V. Diaz, it’s probably one of the biggest and most ambitious tourism event ever launched in the country. But the best part of it all, as noted in the guidelines given us, one had the choice of following the main caravan as per schedule, or one could deviate from it and meet up again at any of the other stops. Like perusing a menu in a restaurant – you order only want you want.

Well, our group did just that. And if you know the bent of this writer, we tried other things outside the menu as well, quite literally. But always, at the end of each day’s journey, our spirits soared with the breathtaking scenery, the enjoyable company of kindred souls, and our stomachs filled with the local delicacies each region had to offer. It was an uplifting experience – a movable feast for both body and soul!

"Build and they will come," commands an inner voice in the movie Field of Dreams. They have built. Come see the North Philippines!

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Postscript: What gives? With so much natural beauty our country is blessed with, not to mention its greatest asset – the warmth and hospitality of the Filipinos – why aren’t the foreign tourists coming in droves? One thing this caravan has proven though, with political colors aside, with all sectors getting involved and working hand-in-hand for a common goal, nothing is impossible. The bayanihan spirit lives on. Basta’t sama-sama, kaya natin.

An a side: Nope, Maryane didn’t do it the way our grandmas did, nor did she have to wear a disposable diaper. She had her fair share of clean toilets, and then some. As for my back problem, I’ve forgotten I ever had it during the whole trip. Was it the excitement and adrenaline that kept flowing, the super comfortable ride of the Sport Trac or the ReversAge dietary supplement I’ve been taking? Well, only time will tell as I’m back riding my old pick-up.

Coming full circle: The author’s father did his one-car "rally" in 1964 when he was 46 years old. I’ll turn 46 this year and was fated to join the caravan and write about it. Coincidence? Well, one thing I’m sure about – I don’t want to be in his shoes running after 12 kids at this time and age. (Claude is the ninth of 12 children. At 46, his father had a three-year-old boy for his youngest.)

Just do it!: With Holy Week and summer vacation just around the corner, this will be the best time to visit the north. Plan it with the whole family or barkada. With a group of at least 10 vehicle-caravan, the NPTC will arrange for you a similar itinerary, providing you with a tour guide. Contact Josette Doctor (0917-942-8890) or Michele Tayag (0917-794-1704) or call Asipine Events Group (045)599-2813; T/fax: (045)599-3330; e-mail: aeg@comclark.com