Welcome to the neighborhood

Your Local, a brand- new dining outpost in Legaspi Village, proves that travel is always an education in food. Listing a range of good, authentic ingredients from several continents, the menu bears a type of knowledge gleaned from journeys far and wide.

Credit for this must go to chefs Nicco Santos and Denny Antonino. “It’s a self-expression of how I want to cook,” says Nicco. Following years manning Shiok, his now-shuttered casual spot at The Fort, he now conveys his love for full Singaporean, Malaysian and Cantonese flavors at Your Local through dishes with clear Southeast Asian outlines.

Blended with Denny’s Western techniques, the results feature an element of discovery and surprise while maintaining a sense of familiarity and comfort. “Our pork and beans is a heavily bastardized version of fabada, a family dish we have at home,” shares Denny.

Different guises

I tuck into sliders that appeared in two different guises: chili crab and beef rendang. The former showed a real lightness of touch, while the latter, a rich Indonesian curry, made with coconut milk and tender meat, was enlivened by one of my favorite herbs, cilantro. Creamy man tou buns — steamed Chinese white bread — served as the perfect vehicle, leading me to conclude, “This is excellent. I’m coming back.”

While the influences may appear eclectic, Denny stresses balance in each individual item, “that nothing conflicts in the dish.” The popular salmon donburi, for example, started a bit differently. The chefs, however, switched from the smoked variety to a “nice Norwegian salmon, cut sashimi style and torched,” to lift the plate, which was already quite substantial, thanks to a base of roast corn and shiitake black rice.  

Sense of place

Bringing a type of cuisine to life is not just about the food; evoking a sense of place is also important. What was once a small telecommunications office has been converted into an establishment replete with neo-industrial details, a voguish look that should please Monocle readers. “Manila is ready for something a bit more fun,” adds Nicco.

The concrete hamlet of Legaspi Village, more laidback than Salcedo Village or The Fort, charmed the two and their business partners, reminding the lot of Brooklyn and Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. Your Local resonates with a genuine air of friendliness that complements, not competes with, what is already in the area; Yardstick Coffee is next door, while the reliable Murphy’s Irish Pub and La Grotta Cucina Italiana are but a few steps away.

“We decided to open Your Local quietly, with no fanfare, because we didn’t want to overwhelm our kitchen staff,” says Celine Gabriel-Lim, who, along with husband Matt, also comprises the young team. “We started with dinner service, telling only our closest friends at first. Then as the team became more confident, we opened for brunch and lunch.” The slow but sure approach seems to have worked for the demographic the group saw as their opportunity — worldly city-dwellers with similar appetites — as tables were already under several people’s names so early in the evening.

Hidden gem

Inspiring to me was the sight of Jenny Yrasuegui, Celine’s fellow public relations professional, overseeing the restaurant from a corner redoubt with a determination that nothing will escape her attention. Also fascinating were Denny and Nicco as they stood by the bar preparing for that night’s business. Everyone was full of enthusiasm in their profession, mindful of the hard work it involves but aware, too, that it brings huge satisfaction.

Your Local, much larger than I initially thought, is one of those hidden gems that has helped reenergize a rather sleepy corner of my neighborhood. As it turns out, my trip today was a mere prelude, and I’m glad I don’t have to venture far to relish the rest of their imaginative courses.

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Ground Floor, Universal LMS Building, 106 Esteban St. corner VA Rufino St., Legaspi Village, Makati City. Tel. 823-6206. Instagram: @yourlocalph. Facebook: yourlocalph.

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