Two legends and a newbie

Chanel has a ?vener-?able scent heritage that dates back all the way to 1921, when the brilliant nose Ernest Beaux composed Chanel No. 5. A succession of perfumers has produced hit after hit; today Jacques Polge is continuing the tradition by blending modern juices that stay true to the spirit of the house.

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All fragrances are available at Chanel counters in Rustan’s.

Chanel No. 5: Three ways to wear a classic

What it is: The legendary perfume worn by Marilyn Monroe is presented in three different formats for the holidays: an eau de parfum in Chanel No. 5’s original, iconic bottle, which would dress up any vanity table; a 60-ml eau de parfum refillable spray in a black lacquered ingot trimmed with gold; and an intense bath oil in a 250-ml glass bottle. When poured into warm water, the oil becomes milky to soften, moisturize and perfume the skin.

Scent notes: Top notes of Tunisian neroli, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, aldehydes; middle notes of rose absolute and jasmine absolute; base notes of sandalwood, bourbon vetiver and bourbon vanilla.

What it smells like: The eau de parfum opens with bright, lively citrus notes. A vanilla note bursts forth from the floral heart of rose and jasmine to give a soft and light powdery composition. The base is underlined by a smooth touch of bourbon vanilla, which heightens the trail of the scent.

It’s easy being green: Chanel No. 19 Poudré is a more powdery take on the original crisp green fragrance.

Fragrance evolution:  In 1921, called upon by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to create “a woman’s fragrance that smells like a woman,” perfumer Ernest Beaux found inspiration during a summer expedition to the North Pole. To sensual florals he added an unheard-of amount of aldehydes, the super-clean smell of which we’ve come to associate with soap. The crisp, feminine and oh, so modern result changed fragrance forever, and immortalized Chanel No. 5 as olfactory art you could wear.

Modern update: In 1986, faithful to Chanel No. 5’s olfactory heritage, current house perfumer Jacques Polge reinterpreted the parfum as an eau de parfum.

Who can wear it: Any woman who wants Chanel’s inimitable cachet; nothing says Chanel quite like the jacket, quilted bag, and No. 5.

Chanel No. 19 poudre: Silk and silver

What it is: Named after the day that Mademoiselle Chanel was born, Aug. 19, it is said that perfumer Henri Robert composed this green fragrance for the fashion doyenne when she was in her 80s.

Scent notes: Top notes of Tunisian neroli, galbanum, hyacinth; middle notes of rose absolute, iris Pallida, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang; base notes of Haitian vetiver and Virginian cedarwood.

What it smells like: Crisp, green and utterly bold, No. 19 is softened by powdery iris absolute, a noble ingredient found in all versions of No. 19, from Robert’s 1970 eau de toilette to the new No. 19 Poudré created by Jacques Polge.

Fragrance evolution: In 1988, Polge created his first interpretation of No. 19. Eighteen years after the launch of the eau de toilette and perfume, he created an eau de parfum that had much more of a floral dimension than its predecessors. In addition to the crisp radiance of galbanum, neroli and the hyacinth accord, he included ylang-ylang from the Comoros, and put a greater emphasis on the rose absolute and lily of the valley. Iris still held everything together, though, present from the top notes right down to the woody base of vetiver and cedar.

“Ground iris rhizomes were long used to powder the hair and face,” explains the perfumer. “This gave me the idea of adding another type of powdery note to the formula and using the new generation of musk that is available today.”

Modern update: In keeping with the original composition, No. 19 Poudré still has the same light, velvety, floating feel, like a sweep of silk over cold silver.

Who can wear it: Originally created at the height of the women’s revolution, No. 19 is designed to suit powerful women with the rebellious streak of Coco Chanel — those who have a taste for all things avant-garde and modern.

Bleu de chanel: Expect the unexpected

Bleu mood: New gent’s scent Bleu de Chanel takes the traditional woody masculine fragrance in unexpected directions.

What it is: A new fragrance for men accompanied by a hot advert directed by Martin Scorsese.

Scent notes: Top notes of pink pepper, citrus and vetiver; middle notes of grapefruit, dry cedar and labdanum; base notes of frankincense, ginger and sandalwood.

What it smells like: To create in aromatic form its inspiration of the unexpected, Bleu de Chanel takes off from a traditional woody base and goes in unexpected directions, journeying through sensual incense and delicate jasmine to a final destination that evokes Italy, source of this scent’s zesty citrus character.

Cinematic production: Chanel made the unexpected move of hiring Martin Scorsese to direct the commercial for Bleu de Chanel. Far from the gritty New York streets he’s depicted in films like Taxi Driver, Scorsese explored Big Apple glam this time with Hannibal Rising actor Gaspard Ulliel as a rising star who refuses to submit to the expected demands of fame. Haunted at a press conference by memories of his first love and an intriguing new beauty he’s just met, he ends up committing the cardinal no-no of standing up and walking out.

Who can wear it: Men who thrive on breaking the norm and doing the unexpected.