Costume National: Essential, edgy chic, rock & roll

MANILA, Philippines - Brad Pitt loves it. And so do Keanu Reeves, Jude Law and Lenny Kravitz.

They all wear Costume National, an avant-garde line which has been defined as edgy chic, a blend of minimalism and rock ‘n’ roll with a very iconic, slim and sensual silhouette.

Costume National is recognized for its excellent “value for price” ratio. The clientele is modern, dynamic, often characterized by a well-informed background. The Costume National lifestyle is shaped by a modern and international calling.

Ennio Capasa, Costume National’s designer, was born in Lecce in the Apulia region of Italy.

In 1982 Capasa completed his studies at Milan’s Belle Arti Academy, obtaining his degree with a thesis on Russian constructivism. His fascination with design in its most pure and essential nature led him to move to Japan where he lived for three years working as an assistant for Yohji Yamamoto. In 1986 on his return to Italy, he founded Costume National with his brother Carlo. The name of the maison was inspired by a book on French uniforms.

 The line evolved while keeping true to the core inspiration: the rock ‘n’ roll of the ’70s — revisited in campaigns starring the children of rock — filtered by the concept of tailoring, which remains crucial for Capasa. In order to maintain this delicate balance — which over the years has developed into an instantly recognizable aesthetics — the designer has delved into technological minimalism with laser-cut fabrics, Pantone colors and futuristic silhouettes.

 However, there are no signs of excessive abstraction. According to Capasa, one of the cardinal rules of fashion is that it should maintain a dialogue with the person who wears it — that it should change according to the needs and desires of the individuals who make a piece of the collection their own. Thus a garment relives, thanks to the person who wears it. “Fashion is a form of pleasure, it seduces the self and others,” states the designer. This fashion is more centered on the dialogue with the wearer than on a narcissistic monologue.

A time for ICA: The design of the ICA 75th Year Watch by Swatch is inspired by the blue and white porcelain Ming vase.

 “I believe that my aim or ambition has always been creating a style, an aesthetic point of view. Traditional tailoring and research merge with the rebellious core that lies at the heart of the creative spirit. This is a collection that needs to be touched. The experimentation is never-ending: clean cuts, jackets without seams are assembled by a laser technique, knit becomes one with the fabric. I worked on many different possibilities of a synthesis between formal and sportswear, eliminating shirts and ties in the name of a creative rebellion,” says Capasa.

 The new men’s winter collection abandons ties and shirts — the traditions of tailoring — integrating new creative structures into this wardrobe.

 A dip into a delicate world that fits the undisputable element of post-punk, perfectly. Adherent, second skin pants reinterpret the miniature camouflage designs, and combat design almost demands a powerful tank in order to conquer quotidian life. A sort of neo-formal freedom emerges from the energy of the early days: the first blazer worn casually, spontaneously; the Parka as a cult object — but this time in high-tech, colored shiny fabrics; pants that belong to the dynamism of street culture.

 Memories and borrowed elements come from the ’80s, from the New Wave style – which stole the element of non-color from punk, while re-appropriating its clean forms, void of details, stitching and shaping.

In Manila, Costume National is now available only at Adora, 2/F Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati City. Tel. 217-4029.