The art of Zen dining

Few cuisines have attained the kind of status Japanese culinary fare acquired over the past two decades. Worshipped by some as the answer to flawless, beautiful skin (one only has to look at Japanese women and their pore-less complexions for proof), while hailed by others as the only true modern culinary art form (example: those beautifully rendered plates of sashimi at high-end restaurants), Japanese food has gained iconic status, both as a quick-fix meal (quick bites of the over-popular California maki, anyone?) and go-to option for anyone with a platinum credit card and a taste for the almost-extinct yellowfin tuna.

These days, even children of the well-to-do are crying out for their favorite sushi rolls the same way kids a decade ago (i.e. moi) yearned for spaghetti and hotdogs. You know you’ve come a long way when kids in Spongebob tees ask politely for another serving of soba.

I took a tour of affordable Japanese joints at SM Mall of Asia that run the gamut from totally authentic to something more western in concept. My verdict? You don’t need to be a high-falutin’ epicure to enjoy some of the tasty treats courtesy of our Asian neighbors. Hai!

Sakae Sushi: Eat and be merry

Its slogan, “Healthy cuisine at great value,” speaks volumes about this Japanese franchise. Known for its conveyor belt of sushi and sashimi, which revolves through and around the restaurant, allowing diners to sample small orders of their favorite dishes, its mantra serves to illustrate the kind of affordable, filling meal most people on a budget are looking for. Color-coordinated plates signify price points (the highest coming at a mere P99), while those who opt for eat-all-you-can (available between 2 to 6 p.m.) can snack on the bite-sized goodies without concern since buffet costs little more than 300 hundred pesos.

Established in September of 1997 in Singapore, Sakae Sushi’s charms don’t rest solely on that conveyor belt (although it certainly makes for a fun meal). This humble joint seems to be all about making diners happy. If you don’t believe me, just take a look at their mascot: a frog with a grin stretched from one ear to the next. 

Sakae Sushi is located at the 2nd floor, North Arcade, SM Mall of Asia (tel. 556-0150).

Tokyo Café: A mixed plate

With its friendly staff, nice airy interiors and warm ambience, this restaurant is the kind of informal place where you can hang out for a two-hour dinner with friends and no one will judge you for it. Its unpretentious menu (a mix of westernized dishes and Japanese favorites) makes it a haven for people wary of trying cuisine out of their comfort zone. Test the waters with their creamy ebiko pasta, a creamy confection of al dente pasta with white sauce seasoned with ebiko — or fish eggs, which accounts for its rich pinkish color — and tossed with a hearty helping of shrimp. Sample the hamburg & shrimp, a combination of juicy burger patties (in this case, lightly drenched in a mushroom sauce) and breaded black tiger prawns with a helping of rice or garlic bread. For those willing to tread deeper into the Japanese side, there’s unaju, pan-fried eel fillets topped with caramelized soy sauce over rice, and seafood mix fry, a breaded mix of fish, shrimp and squid that’s fried till golden brown and served with tartar sauce and potato salad.

Tokyo Café is located at the ground floor, South Arcade, SM Mall of Asia (tel. 556-0699).

Tanabe: Where raw rules

Named after the general manager, chef and member of the company’s board of director’s, Tanabe boasts Japanese-inspired interiors (look to the wooden floorboards, indoor garden elements and the large Japanese painting) and Japanese-trained sushi chefs. Opened in May of 2006, this restaurant’s specialties include Wagyu imported from Japan, served teppanyaki and nabemono (table top cooking, like sukiyaki or shabu-shabu) style. But it’s the sashimi and sushi special that makes this place fancy. Served on a wooden bridge, the range of sushi and sashimi includes imported salmon and unagi along with locally-sourced, fresh fish like horse mackerel, tuna and lapu-lapu. One must-try is the ark shell, dubbed akagai, which resembles conch and snail in texture and flavor profile.

Tanabe is located at the 2nd floor, Entertainment Mall, South Wing, SM Mall of Asia (tel. 556-0360).