Travel through taste at Silk

Gourmands who are also science fiction buffs would love the idea of being able to teleport to various destinations in the blink of an eye. This would give them the opportunity to savor the flavors of the dishes in authentic milieus whenever they feel like it. However, until some inventor comes up with a teleportation device, we have to content ourselves with hours of travel time, considerable expense, and, in this peak season for travel, interminable and exasperating queues in airports. Fortunately, there are local restaurants that serve special dishes from distant places. And for devotees of Thai cuisine in Metro Manila, Thai at Silk in Serendra  is only a drive away.

We started with khong waang Silk or the Silk appetizer selection. This consisted of a familiar paw pia thawt, or deep-fried spring rolls; tung tong (crisp shrimp pastry), which was made special by an accompanying plum sauce, and thawt man pla grai, or deep-fried fish cakes. The fish cakes may be a bit salty for the Western palate, but these are completely agreeable with the Asian’s preference for well-seasoned food. To complete the appetizer selection was moo ping bai cha plu or grilled aromatic pork wrapped in betel leaves, where the leaves lent a pleasant, faintly spicy flavor to the fingers of ground lean meat. While biting on the delicious morsels, it occurred to me that promoting the use of the betel leaf in cooking was a means of encouraging people to plant it. The leaves were traditionally chewed with lime and betel nuts as nganga in the past, but as the habit became less common, avid gardeners rue that the betel leaf plant has disappeared from most Filipino gardens.

Apart from sampling the appetizer selection, one may also have kaew sa woei or Thai green mango to whet the appetite. One may enhance it with two kinds of salty/sweet/spicy dips, but the fruit is just as good unadorned. What makes the crunchy green mango distinct from what we have locally is its complete lack of sourness. Likewise, a mouthful of the refreshing fruit taken between entrees does a good job in clearing the palate, allowing one to appreciate the merits of each dish even better.

The new entrees are part of what is known as “Royal Cuisine,” shares Silk chef and co-owner Cecille Ysmael, who believes in personalized service for restaurant patrons. “I like to tell everyone to specify preference for taste,” she says. The diner’s partiality for sweetness, saltiness or spiciness is taken into account when the dishes are prepared to promote maximum enjoyment of the food. She observes that although most Filipinos are quite wary of the use of chilies, they are generally knowledgeable with the cuisine even at a young age. “Kids nowadays are so privileged to try different cuisines,” she says, recalling that when she was growing up, “eating out” usually meant sharing meals with family and friends in private homes. And thus, the recipes for feasting revolved around tried and tested favorites. To celebrate the season and to broaden the diner’s experience in Thai cuisine, she has come up with 12 new dishes in the restaurant — one for each month of the year.

Aside from the appetizers, the new dishes include an uncomplicated but savory ped phad nam makham or roasted duck breast with tamarind sauce that one can have with khao phad ped yang (roasted duck fried rice) without feeling the duck overload.

Pla thap tim tord kratiem prik Thai is a mouthful to say, but it is simply deep-fried king fish with pepper and crispy garlic. One notes that the kingfish of Thailand is different from the kingfish of North America. While the North American kingfish (also called drum, croaker, or king mackerel) is a large variety fish with a market weight of one to 30 pounds, the Thai kingfish appears to be related to St. Peter’s fish, locally known as tilapia. Nevertheless, it was fried to perfection — crisp and browned skin outside, and soft, juicy, white and tender flesh within.

New seafood dishes that will surely please the diner include pla meuk goong nam pak thao or stir-fried squid and shrimp with roasted chili paste, and a heavenly stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper sauce whose Thai name is a veritable tongue twister: poo nim phad prig Thai dam.

However, hearty eaters would surely enjoy phaneng moo gob linchee, or thick and creamy pork tenderloin curry with lychee. This is best heaped over and eaten with fragrant, steaming hot rice. When the curry’s spices sate the taste buds, the sweetness of lychee provides a sweet counterpoint that allows for renewed enjoyment of the delicious dish.

Chef Cecille Ysmael likes to keep herself updated on new developments in Thai cooking. She does this through monthly trips to Thailand that usually last three to four days. Although these are mainly buying trips for authentic ingredients, she always manages to learn something new. “I like to explore new dishes. I keep in touch with the cooking teachers to keep myself updated on what is most current in the Thai food scene,” says the amiable lady who prefers the title kusinera to chef. She relates that although staunch traditionalists may protest the westernization of conventional dishes, Euro-Thai cooking has gained a considerable following. Personally, she subscribes to the idea that there is nothing wrong with change. “Food, like all aspects of culture, is constantly evolving. I’m very open to new influences. Tradition should not limit creativity.” Although it is important to remember traditions, it is just as important to embrace change.

Perhaps, the philosophy of a harmonious co-existence of old and new is best exemplified in two of the restaurant’s new entrees. See khrong gae yang takrai, or lemongrass marinated lamb chops served with fresh papaya salad, and neau yang jim jaen, a grilled US-certified rib eye steak served with a spicy dip (from Chiang Mai) that incorporates roasted rice, chilies and other spices, are proof that non-traditional, internationally-sourced ingredients enhance Thai culinary traditions.

To end the meal, one may opt for sweet dessert soup called morakot krob, or water chestnut and jackfruit in coconut milk. However, I recommend that you try experiencing the sampaguita sorbet — like a fragrant bouquet offered to the venerated taste buds. Delicious!

One tip for diners who want to dissect the intricate flavors of each delicious dish and savor a long leisurely meal: Lunchtime is a good time to visit Silk. “I normally ask my friends to come at lunchtime because I have time to sit with them, talk, and entertain them,” says chef Cecille. Perhaps, you may get to meet the gracious lady on your next visit to Silk.

“I enjoy every minute of cooking,” she says. The enjoyment is apparent in the flavors, and Silk continues to gain a loyal and enthusiastic following.

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Thai at Silk is located at Unit 1C12 Little Asia, ground floor, Serendra Piazza, 26th St., Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City. For reservations and inquiries, call 856-0386, 856-0387, and 0917-8229818, or e-mail silk@globelines.com.ph.