Brighten up!
May 23, 2004 | 12:00am
It may not be entirely unfair when Filipinos are accused of delinquency when it comes to being true to their Asian heritage. Our proclivity for Western ideals, our intimacy with the English language, our over—familiarity with American and European brands, our names, and our religion are all incongruent to the culture that dominates the rest of Asia. Almost half a century of combined Spanish and American rule has shaped our consciousness into thinking and even acting like Westerners.
There is one characteristic in the Filipino psyche that is distinctly Asian. Filipinos, particularly the women, are obsessive about skin care just like the rest of Asian women. Skin care for Asian women is equated to having smooth-as-porcelain, blemish-free, fair skin. The beauty ideal fixates on a quest for a luminescent pearl-like complexion.
This desire for porcelain-like skin is traced back to tradition. Women in dynasty-led China would swallow pearls that have been pulverized into powder hoping that the gem’s luminescence would be transferred to their skin. These days, scientific research backs up Asian women’s quest for brighter, fairer skin. Big beauty companies such as Chanel, Clinique, Estee Lauder, Prescriptives have learned to create moisturizers, lotions, facial washes, and even makeup that promise a brighter, fairer complexion specifically for the porcelain-preoccupied Asian market, culling them under a category marked as "whitening agents". These whitening products are top-sellers in the skincare market, catering to a steadfastly growing number of patrons.
In 2003, reports Asiams.net, a website catering to the needs of Asian women, 50 percent of Hong Kong women bought whitening agents, up from a 38 percent showing in 2002. Japan is another country most visited by women who wish for light, blemish-free skin. About 60 percent of the females in the country spend for whitening skincare products. In Thailand, sales of whitening lotions account for more than 60 percent of the country’s annual expenditure of US$100 million for facial skincare products. More than one-third of the female population in Indonesia, Malaysia and Taiwan purchased skin-whitening products in the past year. These agents are also best buys in Vietnam and Myanmar.
Skin-whitening may be an age-old quest but it wasn’t until a decade ago that effort has been put into researching and studying substances reputed to prevent discoloration and these substances bottled and packaged nicely. The prevalent ingredient found in the first few commercially-marketed whitening agents was hydroquinone. Studies made by the United States FDA found the substance to be a possible carcinogen and this could be the reason why hydroquinone is banned for cosmetic use in Asia. Beauty brands then discovered the bounty of nature and began to use botanical extracts as key ingredients. A common constituent found in most whitening products is licorice. Some brands, such as Chanel Precision, La Prairie, and Prescriptives use it to regulate skin pigmentation as licorice extract is an effective anti-tyrosinase agent (tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme that is important in the production of melanin). Other brands like Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Kose use licorice as an anti-irritant to soothe skin. Oriental plant extracts also manifest significantly in the list of ingredients, particularly of Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Japanese brand Kose. Vitamin C, known to inhibit melanin-production, is another popular whitening substance and can be found in whitening products by Chanel Precision, La Prairie, Origins, Prescriptives, and Estee Lauder.
Despite its widespread proliferation on the market, a lot of women still misconstrue the basic principle of whitening agents. Skin-whitening agents brighten, not bleach. According to eastday.com, a website of articles compiled by the Shanghai Daily, "Good skin whitening products are different from bleaching formulas. There’s no product, not even a detergent, on the market that can turn Asian skin into Caucasian skin. Whitening solutions reverse skin damage, which manifests in the form of pigmentation. The whitening result is merely a side effect."
Skin-lightening is achieved to a certain extent because melanin production is hindered by certain ingredients. Whitening products really work by targeting dark spots, freckles, and other forms of discoloration, thus making the skin tone look even. Asian skin is prone to dark spots and the right whitening products, those sold by expert beauty brands, first work to prevent these forms of pigmentation caused by pollutants in the environment. Sun damage, the depletion of the ozone, and free radicals (damaging molecules that can cause cancer) all contribute to skin damage which is manifested by discoloration, fungus, and a dull complexion. Products manufactured by expert beauty brands contain antioxidants such as Edelweiss extract (Christian Dior), vitamin E (Origins, La Prairie, and Clinique) and special anti-pollution agents that prevent the skin from losing its healthy and radiant glow. Luminosity and translucence is achieved when skin is healthy, energized, moisturized, and nutrient-rich.
In the whitening industry, eight beauty brands stand out as the ones with the most advanced technology and the most efficient results. These are:
Whitening line: Blanc Pureté, which features Luminéine CII Intense, a unique whitening complex upgraded from the initial Luminéine CII complex launched last year.
Key ingredient: Pigmentation-regulating licorice extract with a powerful anti-tyrosinase. Intense contains 12 times the concentration of licorice extract than the first Luminéine CII.
Other ingredients: Extracts from apple, green tea, cucumber, and scutelleria root, and a highly concentrated vitamin C derivative make possible the anti-tyrosinase action of of Luminéine CII Intense. The line’s facial cleansers include an anti-pollution agent called Extract of Nebeday, which has deep-cleansing and purifying properties.
Range includes: Eight products make up the Blanc Pureté line. Two new products being launched are Gentle Cleansing Milk for the Face and Eyes and Intensive Whitening Essence. Previous whitening products include an exfoliating cleanser, whitening softening lotion, anti-dark spot essence, protective fluid, night cream, and mattifying mask.
Whitening line: Dior Snow X2, an upgraded technology of original Dior Snow line. Dior Snow X2 has double the power of the latter and features the S.N.O.W 2 Complex.
Key ingredients: Edelweiss extract, an antioxidant that brightens skin and combats protein glycation that contributes to the formation of a dull veil on skin.
Range includes Dior Snow X2 Ultra-Brightening Whitening Lotion for the face, Dior Snow UV X2 Ultra-Whitening Spot Corrector with SPF50 (a dark spot correcting concealer that helps pigmentation fade gradually), Dior Snow X2 Ultra-Protective Whitening Crème Base with SPF 50 (ideal as a makeup base), Dior Snow UV X2 Ultra-Brightening Fluid Coat with SPF35 for the face, Dior Snow Ultra-Brightening Whitening Powder Foundation with SPF 25
Whitening line: Clinique Active White Lab Solutions, which features Advanced MID Technology.
Key ingredients: Chamomile extract to prevent excess melanin production; yeast extract to reduce brown spots and speed up the brightening process; Clinique’s IPF technology, which acts as a defense system against UV exposure; an anti—oxidant cocktail of vitamin E, cili extract, and yang-kuei-fei (a special herbal extract named after the wife of T’ang Dynasty emperor Xuan Zang); licorice extract to calm and soothe skin; white Birch extract to help increase skin’s resistance to environmental damage.
Range includes: Core products Clinique AWLS Intensive Essence, Clinique AWLS Super City sunblock with SPF30, Clinique AWLS Powder Makeup with SPF 20; basic care products Clinique AWLS Cleansing soap bar, Clinique AWLS Refreshing Brightening Lotion, Clinique AWLS Daily Moisture moisturizer; intensive treatment product Clinique AWLS Spot Concentrate; accessory products Clinique AWLS foaming cleanser, Clinique AWLS hand cream
Whitening line:
WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening system, which was launched in 2003. Spring 2004 introduces the line’s four new products.
Key Ingredients: Catabolic complex, a nutrient—rich infusion of magnesium, zinc, calcium to restore skin’s health, help reverse damage of environmental pollutants during the day, and to inhibit the further release of melanin; luminEX complex which delivers illuminating benefits to the skin by interrupting any inflammatory action that can lead to the formation of dark spots; triple brightening complex, which includes a super-charged green tea extract to protect skin from harsh pollutants and to minimize the appearance of discoloration, anti-irritant licorice, and a vitamin C derivative called Soft-C to reduce damage from oxidation and inhibit release of tyrosinase.
Range includes: Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Intensive Night Crème, Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Color Correcting Kit (includes three spot-correcting pens in three pastel shades of yellow, pink/beige, blue/lavender all with a light-reflecting technology that works to give skin a clearer, more even tone), Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Hydra Massage Mask, and Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Soothing Eye Mask.
Whitening line: Sekkisei.
Key ingredients: Six Japanese and Chinese plant extracts that include moisturizers adlay extract, Japanese anglica root extract, and Melothria japonica (white lotus) extract, licorice extract to reduce inflammation, Korean ginseng extract to promote circulation and to prevent a decline in metabolic functions causing dryness and aging of skin, and vegetable wasp and plant worm extract to energize and strengthen skin cells
Range includes: Sekkisei lotion, Sekkisei emulsion, Sekkisei cream, handmade Sekkisei soap.
Whitening line: Swiss Cellular White.
Key ingredients: Three proactive complexes, whose mission is to promote a porcelain complexion. These are Skin Whitening Complex, a blend of vitamin C derivative ascorbyl glucoside to inhibit the production of melanin, and licorice extract to help reduce pigmentation ; ozone protection complex, an anti-ozonant based on fumaric acid and lemon extract, which, when combined, destroy ozone molecules generated from environmental pollution; exclusive cellular complex to reinforce natural skin functions and to nourish, energize, and firm skin.
Other ingredients: Antioxidants vitamin E and white tea extract, panthenol to condition and moisturize the skin and light reflecting pigments to enhance luminosity.
Range includes: La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Lotion, La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Essence, La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Day Emulsion with SPF15, Whitening Night Cream
Whitening line: Origins White.
Key ingredients: White Brightening Essence includes vitamin C to diminish pigmentation and renew clarity; scutellaria and yeast extracts to boost brightening; ylang-ylang, lemon and cucumber to soothe skin; and vitamin E de-activates free radicals. Whitening Skin-Softening bath soak has glycerin to moisturize skin and aloe vera to soothe skin. Whitening Brightening body lotion has ascorbyl glucoside to help reduce brown spots and discoloration caused by sun exposure and pollution.
Range includes: Origins White Brightening Essence, Origins Whitening Skin-softening bath soak, Origins Whitening Brightening Body Lotion.
Whitening line: Pure
White, with two versions Enrich or Light to satisfy the brand’s customized skin care promise. Pure White features White Ceramic complex.
Key ingredients: White Ceramic, a natural ceramic powder that absorbs infrared light energy, increasing micro-circulation and detoxifying skin
Other ingredients: Melannite to break down dark spots; vitamin C and Japanese Unshiu peel extract to help slow down melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase; phyto plus which includes an antioxidant blend of grape, mulberry, and scutellaria extracts to prevent discoloration and battle oxidation; licorice extract to improve evenness of skin tone; sodium hyaluronate to moisturise skin; Cantella Asiatica, a natural botanical extract, to boost collagen for smoother, firmer skin; and anti-irritants caffeine and sucrose.
Range includes: Pure White Foaming Cleanser, Pure White Lotion (enriched or light), Pure White Essence (enriched or light), Pure White Clarifying Mask.
There is one characteristic in the Filipino psyche that is distinctly Asian. Filipinos, particularly the women, are obsessive about skin care just like the rest of Asian women. Skin care for Asian women is equated to having smooth-as-porcelain, blemish-free, fair skin. The beauty ideal fixates on a quest for a luminescent pearl-like complexion.
This desire for porcelain-like skin is traced back to tradition. Women in dynasty-led China would swallow pearls that have been pulverized into powder hoping that the gem’s luminescence would be transferred to their skin. These days, scientific research backs up Asian women’s quest for brighter, fairer skin. Big beauty companies such as Chanel, Clinique, Estee Lauder, Prescriptives have learned to create moisturizers, lotions, facial washes, and even makeup that promise a brighter, fairer complexion specifically for the porcelain-preoccupied Asian market, culling them under a category marked as "whitening agents". These whitening products are top-sellers in the skincare market, catering to a steadfastly growing number of patrons.
In 2003, reports Asiams.net, a website catering to the needs of Asian women, 50 percent of Hong Kong women bought whitening agents, up from a 38 percent showing in 2002. Japan is another country most visited by women who wish for light, blemish-free skin. About 60 percent of the females in the country spend for whitening skincare products. In Thailand, sales of whitening lotions account for more than 60 percent of the country’s annual expenditure of US$100 million for facial skincare products. More than one-third of the female population in Indonesia, Malaysia and Taiwan purchased skin-whitening products in the past year. These agents are also best buys in Vietnam and Myanmar.
Skin-whitening may be an age-old quest but it wasn’t until a decade ago that effort has been put into researching and studying substances reputed to prevent discoloration and these substances bottled and packaged nicely. The prevalent ingredient found in the first few commercially-marketed whitening agents was hydroquinone. Studies made by the United States FDA found the substance to be a possible carcinogen and this could be the reason why hydroquinone is banned for cosmetic use in Asia. Beauty brands then discovered the bounty of nature and began to use botanical extracts as key ingredients. A common constituent found in most whitening products is licorice. Some brands, such as Chanel Precision, La Prairie, and Prescriptives use it to regulate skin pigmentation as licorice extract is an effective anti-tyrosinase agent (tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme that is important in the production of melanin). Other brands like Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Kose use licorice as an anti-irritant to soothe skin. Oriental plant extracts also manifest significantly in the list of ingredients, particularly of Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Japanese brand Kose. Vitamin C, known to inhibit melanin-production, is another popular whitening substance and can be found in whitening products by Chanel Precision, La Prairie, Origins, Prescriptives, and Estee Lauder.
Despite its widespread proliferation on the market, a lot of women still misconstrue the basic principle of whitening agents. Skin-whitening agents brighten, not bleach. According to eastday.com, a website of articles compiled by the Shanghai Daily, "Good skin whitening products are different from bleaching formulas. There’s no product, not even a detergent, on the market that can turn Asian skin into Caucasian skin. Whitening solutions reverse skin damage, which manifests in the form of pigmentation. The whitening result is merely a side effect."
Skin-lightening is achieved to a certain extent because melanin production is hindered by certain ingredients. Whitening products really work by targeting dark spots, freckles, and other forms of discoloration, thus making the skin tone look even. Asian skin is prone to dark spots and the right whitening products, those sold by expert beauty brands, first work to prevent these forms of pigmentation caused by pollutants in the environment. Sun damage, the depletion of the ozone, and free radicals (damaging molecules that can cause cancer) all contribute to skin damage which is manifested by discoloration, fungus, and a dull complexion. Products manufactured by expert beauty brands contain antioxidants such as Edelweiss extract (Christian Dior), vitamin E (Origins, La Prairie, and Clinique) and special anti-pollution agents that prevent the skin from losing its healthy and radiant glow. Luminosity and translucence is achieved when skin is healthy, energized, moisturized, and nutrient-rich.
In the whitening industry, eight beauty brands stand out as the ones with the most advanced technology and the most efficient results. These are:
Whitening line: Blanc Pureté, which features Luminéine CII Intense, a unique whitening complex upgraded from the initial Luminéine CII complex launched last year.
Key ingredient: Pigmentation-regulating licorice extract with a powerful anti-tyrosinase. Intense contains 12 times the concentration of licorice extract than the first Luminéine CII.
Other ingredients: Extracts from apple, green tea, cucumber, and scutelleria root, and a highly concentrated vitamin C derivative make possible the anti-tyrosinase action of of Luminéine CII Intense. The line’s facial cleansers include an anti-pollution agent called Extract of Nebeday, which has deep-cleansing and purifying properties.
Range includes: Eight products make up the Blanc Pureté line. Two new products being launched are Gentle Cleansing Milk for the Face and Eyes and Intensive Whitening Essence. Previous whitening products include an exfoliating cleanser, whitening softening lotion, anti-dark spot essence, protective fluid, night cream, and mattifying mask.
Whitening line: Dior Snow X2, an upgraded technology of original Dior Snow line. Dior Snow X2 has double the power of the latter and features the S.N.O.W 2 Complex.
Key ingredients: Edelweiss extract, an antioxidant that brightens skin and combats protein glycation that contributes to the formation of a dull veil on skin.
Range includes Dior Snow X2 Ultra-Brightening Whitening Lotion for the face, Dior Snow UV X2 Ultra-Whitening Spot Corrector with SPF50 (a dark spot correcting concealer that helps pigmentation fade gradually), Dior Snow X2 Ultra-Protective Whitening Crème Base with SPF 50 (ideal as a makeup base), Dior Snow UV X2 Ultra-Brightening Fluid Coat with SPF35 for the face, Dior Snow Ultra-Brightening Whitening Powder Foundation with SPF 25
Whitening line: Clinique Active White Lab Solutions, which features Advanced MID Technology.
Key ingredients: Chamomile extract to prevent excess melanin production; yeast extract to reduce brown spots and speed up the brightening process; Clinique’s IPF technology, which acts as a defense system against UV exposure; an anti—oxidant cocktail of vitamin E, cili extract, and yang-kuei-fei (a special herbal extract named after the wife of T’ang Dynasty emperor Xuan Zang); licorice extract to calm and soothe skin; white Birch extract to help increase skin’s resistance to environmental damage.
Range includes: Core products Clinique AWLS Intensive Essence, Clinique AWLS Super City sunblock with SPF30, Clinique AWLS Powder Makeup with SPF 20; basic care products Clinique AWLS Cleansing soap bar, Clinique AWLS Refreshing Brightening Lotion, Clinique AWLS Daily Moisture moisturizer; intensive treatment product Clinique AWLS Spot Concentrate; accessory products Clinique AWLS foaming cleanser, Clinique AWLS hand cream
WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening system, which was launched in 2003. Spring 2004 introduces the line’s four new products.
Key Ingredients: Catabolic complex, a nutrient—rich infusion of magnesium, zinc, calcium to restore skin’s health, help reverse damage of environmental pollutants during the day, and to inhibit the further release of melanin; luminEX complex which delivers illuminating benefits to the skin by interrupting any inflammatory action that can lead to the formation of dark spots; triple brightening complex, which includes a super-charged green tea extract to protect skin from harsh pollutants and to minimize the appearance of discoloration, anti-irritant licorice, and a vitamin C derivative called Soft-C to reduce damage from oxidation and inhibit release of tyrosinase.
Range includes: Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Intensive Night Crème, Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Color Correcting Kit (includes three spot-correcting pens in three pastel shades of yellow, pink/beige, blue/lavender all with a light-reflecting technology that works to give skin a clearer, more even tone), Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Hydra Massage Mask, and Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Soothing Eye Mask.
Key ingredients: Six Japanese and Chinese plant extracts that include moisturizers adlay extract, Japanese anglica root extract, and Melothria japonica (white lotus) extract, licorice extract to reduce inflammation, Korean ginseng extract to promote circulation and to prevent a decline in metabolic functions causing dryness and aging of skin, and vegetable wasp and plant worm extract to energize and strengthen skin cells
Range includes: Sekkisei lotion, Sekkisei emulsion, Sekkisei cream, handmade Sekkisei soap.
Key ingredients: Three proactive complexes, whose mission is to promote a porcelain complexion. These are Skin Whitening Complex, a blend of vitamin C derivative ascorbyl glucoside to inhibit the production of melanin, and licorice extract to help reduce pigmentation ; ozone protection complex, an anti-ozonant based on fumaric acid and lemon extract, which, when combined, destroy ozone molecules generated from environmental pollution; exclusive cellular complex to reinforce natural skin functions and to nourish, energize, and firm skin.
Other ingredients: Antioxidants vitamin E and white tea extract, panthenol to condition and moisturize the skin and light reflecting pigments to enhance luminosity.
Range includes: La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Lotion, La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Essence, La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Whitening Day Emulsion with SPF15, Whitening Night Cream
Key ingredients: White Brightening Essence includes vitamin C to diminish pigmentation and renew clarity; scutellaria and yeast extracts to boost brightening; ylang-ylang, lemon and cucumber to soothe skin; and vitamin E de-activates free radicals. Whitening Skin-Softening bath soak has glycerin to moisturize skin and aloe vera to soothe skin. Whitening Brightening body lotion has ascorbyl glucoside to help reduce brown spots and discoloration caused by sun exposure and pollution.
Range includes: Origins White Brightening Essence, Origins Whitening Skin-softening bath soak, Origins Whitening Brightening Body Lotion.
White, with two versions Enrich or Light to satisfy the brand’s customized skin care promise. Pure White features White Ceramic complex.
Key ingredients: White Ceramic, a natural ceramic powder that absorbs infrared light energy, increasing micro-circulation and detoxifying skin
Other ingredients: Melannite to break down dark spots; vitamin C and Japanese Unshiu peel extract to help slow down melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase; phyto plus which includes an antioxidant blend of grape, mulberry, and scutellaria extracts to prevent discoloration and battle oxidation; licorice extract to improve evenness of skin tone; sodium hyaluronate to moisturise skin; Cantella Asiatica, a natural botanical extract, to boost collagen for smoother, firmer skin; and anti-irritants caffeine and sucrose.
Range includes: Pure White Foaming Cleanser, Pure White Lotion (enriched or light), Pure White Essence (enriched or light), Pure White Clarifying Mask.
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