The long and short of the barong

Hai, Japanese fashion watchers did sit up and take notice of our barong tagalog at Pitoy Moreno’s haute couture show in Tokyo featuring, among others, cager Vince Hizon who looked cool off-court with his impeccable rampside manners to boot.

The collection was part of the Philippine costume show that attracted Japan’s well-dressed and well-heeled. Ambassador Romy Arguelles and his wife Emmie Arguelles wore a big, proud smile on their lips. The Lakambini Ladies, wearing their crisp kimonas, graciously lent their support in organizing this fashion show sponsored by the Philippine Embassy to celebrate Philippine Independence Day last June 12 and 50 years of Japanese-Filipino friendship.

"It was not just a fashion show, I like to think it was very educational, too," says Asia’s fashion czar Pitoy Moreno. "For it showed the Philippine costume during the time of the pintados and the days of the Maria Clara as well as what the ethnic tribes or the Muslims wore."

Fact is, the barong has come a long way. Says Pitoy: "I’ve improvised. My barongs now come not just in piña but also in pinukpok (hemp), nipis (soft piña), cotton, jusi and silk. Over the decades, the embroidery has been done by the bordaderos of Batangas and Cavite. It’s a dying industry but I’m trying to keep it alive."

After taking his barong to the land of the rising sun, it’s back to the land of the falling peso for Pitoy. He admits that with the hard times, haute couture may be falling apart at the seams. "There are fewer and fewer grand social events now," Pitoy points out. "Before, I would attend one every week; now, I can only count two or three in a month. Gone are the days of the lavish Kahirup balls; today’s balls have been toned down. But it doesn’t mean you can’t be fashionable anymore."

Having done hundreds of barongs for his VIP clients, among whom are heads of state, Pitoy confesses that he’s been wearing the same barong for the past 10 years. "Yes, I recycle my barong. I simply take out the embroidery and transfer it to a new fabric – and it looks as good as new. If you don’t believe me, take your old barong to me and I’ll recycle it for you."

To add life to your barong, Pitoy gives these tips: Wash and iron it well before storing. If you’re not using it, fold it – the least fold the better. If you can, store with anti-acid paper in a box, suitcase or camphor chest. Air it now and then."

After all, Pitoy hastens to add, vintage fashion is in these days. Today, everything old is new again. "It is not out of taste to recycle clothes. I ask my clients to bring a favorite old gown so I can remodel or fix it up a bit, and then they can wear it again to a ball. What’s distasteful is flaunting your clothes, what with so much poverty around us, with people having only the shirt on their backs and nothing on their plates."

The secret to good dressing even in times as bad as these, says Pitoy, lies in getting good material, a good costurera and good basic accessories (shoes, bags and belts). "Get good accessories so you can match them with a lot of dresses, which can then be used again and again."

Excuse us while we rummage through our lolas’ and lolos’ baul. – CHING M. ALANO