The Sagada experience
July 8, 2001 | 12:00am
You might have seen me among the throngs of faceless Makati yuppies who turn beach bums at the onset of summer. But that was before I discovered Sagada. There is something mystical about the place that draws you back and the arduous 11 to 12-hour trip of rugged and mountainous terrain only lends more mystery and idyllic charm to this small town. Let me take you on a local’s Lonely Planet guide to an inexpensive but enriching trip to the mountainous Sagada.
The adventure starts by booking a Banaue trip on board the Autobus in Dimasalang, Manila for P250. It is best, however, to reserve a week in advance during peak season. Autobus conveniently schedules an overnight trip that leaves Manila at 10 in the evening to reach Banaue at half past six the next morning. From Banaue, one can take a jeep plying the Banaue to Bontoc route and from Bontoc to your final destination of Sagada. This will set you back approximately P110-P130 while a chartered jeep will cost about P2,000-P2,500 for a direct trip to Sagada. The latter will allow you time for a hot breakfast meal amid the National Heritage Banaue Rice Terraces with time to browse at a local market.
The last three-and-a-half hours of bumpy and dusty ride to Sagada are not half as thrilling as the treks to the tourist sights that welcome a first-time visitor; they are but a foretaste. Wear the most comfortable clothes and pack some warm clothing to cocoon in especially late in the evening till the early hours of the morning when the fog from the mountains slowly creeps down to the town plaza.
Exhale. You have definitely reached and stepped on the soil of Sagada. The first thing that tourists do is to race to get the best located bed and breakfast inns at a very minimal cost of P70-P150 a night. I had the hot showers of Alfredo’s to thank as it cut the icy waters in the morning and, from my window, a panoramic vista of the mountains that envelopes the entire town of Sagada. You also have a choice of St. Joseph’s, located across the hospital and the well-preserved church, the Ganduyan and Sagada Inns or the more modern Igorot Inn. As a last resort, one can always get lodgings at St. Dominic’s School should they choose to be on long weekends where most tourists flock to escape the dizzying and choking confines of Manila.
Your next stop is the Municipal Hall, a one-stop tourist assistance center where a comprehensive schedule of what Sagada could graciously offer its visitors is conveniently posted. This includes the rates for a particular tour, the approximate time to complete the same and the equipment that may be required for the activity. Underground cave explorations require skull guards, head lamps, gas lamps, and in some cases, ropes for spelunking or rappelling, all of which are available for rent. It is strongly suggested, however, that the expertise of the official Sagada guides be acquired to maximize your tour and ensure your safety. Besides, a good portion of your fees are earmarked for the upkeep of the tourist areas.
It is important to note that the local tours are not classified according to physical fitness and your phobias. Neither is there any fine print on disclaimers, so it is best to inquire as to what one would expect to find. Now if you are among the tourists who prefer to appreciate what lies aboveground and take walks at leisure, fret not, the local map is a trove of treasure. Maps can be availed of at P5-P10 a piece even in sari-sari stores. Be warned though that they are not drawn to scale and, I suspect, could have been designated by a Sagada resident with fairly good feet and eyes as they indicate the time to complete the particular hike, provided you are able to spot the landmarks.
Among the suggested areas, especially for tourists who come only for a breeze and would rather sample the tourist highlights, the Echo Valley is a 20-minute comfortable trek from the town plaza. Likewise, the hanging coffins of Rock Valley have a cinematic effect as they are set against the rigid gray-and-white mountains which gives the tourist an added glimpse of the underground river and the mouth of the caves that, we are told, are all interconnected. It’s a pity I am claustrophobic and would not be able to disprove that statement. Besides, bats flying dangerously overhead are more than I can bear even with the promise of staggering views of centuries old stalactites and stalagmites. One can also wander to the small waterfalls surrounded by rice terraces with a fairly good cardiovascular exercise on the way back to the main road. I always took comfort in the thought that Sagada is not meant to be sampled like an eat-all-you-can buffet but rather it is meant to be enjoyed and savored like a fine cuisine or drank like a good glass of wine.
I recall my younger sister Amie, never the athletic type, who narrated with awe the spectacular views of Sumaguey Cave that included attractions of spelunking and rappelling before being doused by waterfalls cold enough to wake up the dead. Her guide then was Mang Jacinto who has since passed away and left a legacy to his son who spearheads the local association of Sagada guides. In fact, according to the younger guides manning the Municipal Hall tourist desk, the fastidious Mang Jacinto taught most of the local guides and his name is often spoken with quiet reverence. My brother Joel likewise mentioned that all the guides in Sagada have to pass the rigid rappelling course given by the mountaineers of Habagat for search and rescue missions. This with the safety of all local and foreign tourists in mind.
Surely after a hectic workout, one will eagerly sample the predominantly European-influenced cuisine of Sagada. We were told that, in early times, Belgian missionaries came not only to spread their faith but also to spread gastronomic delights in Sagada. Hence, the proliferation of superbly made yogurt mixed with fresh fruits (Ganduyan Inn), banana and wheat bread and oatmeal cookies (Bilig Cafe and other souvenir houses), a wide range of poultry and meat dishes of German (Yogurt House) and French (Alfredo’s) origins that will transport your tastebuds to European dining tables. One can truly marvel at the variety and quality of meals that have been apparently spiced by the confluence of local and foreign cultures. Where else can you feast on pinikpikan (Alfredo’s) that tastes like coq au vin serving four to six persons for only P450. Masferre Restaurant and Cafe serves the biggest crowd with wider sitting areas at affordable prices. Bilig Cafe, however, serves even heftier portions at the fraction of a price of regular meals. A cup of mountain tea or brewed coffee will allow you to linger in most restaurants, like Shamrock Cafe, to swap stories with local and foreign tourists alike. It is recommended, however, that prior reservations should be made with your preferred dish in most restaurants.
Except for bus schedules, there is little concept about time. I have likewise observed that the local residents are still surprised at the lowlanders’ (that’s what local and foreign tourists are referred to, by the way) impatience and penchant for being served in the manner of express food counters in Metro Manila.
A trip to Sagada, of course, is not complete without visiting the ubiquitous souvenir shops that take pride of the unique Sagada handwoven cloth that is brighter, more intricate and colorful than any other Northern Luzon weaving. The Sagada Weaving Shop sells quality works of art ranging from tablerunners, placemats, napkins, backpacks, wallets, jackets and native skirts. The Ganduyan Museum also has a fine assortment of collectibles that include potteries made by local residents. Other souvenir shops further down the Municipal Hall provide an assortment of inexpensive trinkets, handwoven cloths, food items like the local honey and other knit items you might all want to carry back home, if that were possible.
As if this is not enough to pleasantly assault your senses, the Greenhouse Inn invites you with their version of a scientific massage which is inexpensive at P150-P300 depending on the time spent to soothingly knead those aching muscles.
Alas, a visit to Sagada is not only inexpensive but truly enriching. More so when your trip, like mine, is met by local festivities, such as weddings, where the townsfolk welcome everyone to dance the Tadek and partake of the celebrations like any member of the family. Sagada, indeed, has given new meaning to borderless societies in this age of information technology. - Premy Ann G. Beloy (Third Prize, Travel Now Contest)
The adventure starts by booking a Banaue trip on board the Autobus in Dimasalang, Manila for P250. It is best, however, to reserve a week in advance during peak season. Autobus conveniently schedules an overnight trip that leaves Manila at 10 in the evening to reach Banaue at half past six the next morning. From Banaue, one can take a jeep plying the Banaue to Bontoc route and from Bontoc to your final destination of Sagada. This will set you back approximately P110-P130 while a chartered jeep will cost about P2,000-P2,500 for a direct trip to Sagada. The latter will allow you time for a hot breakfast meal amid the National Heritage Banaue Rice Terraces with time to browse at a local market.
The last three-and-a-half hours of bumpy and dusty ride to Sagada are not half as thrilling as the treks to the tourist sights that welcome a first-time visitor; they are but a foretaste. Wear the most comfortable clothes and pack some warm clothing to cocoon in especially late in the evening till the early hours of the morning when the fog from the mountains slowly creeps down to the town plaza.
Exhale. You have definitely reached and stepped on the soil of Sagada. The first thing that tourists do is to race to get the best located bed and breakfast inns at a very minimal cost of P70-P150 a night. I had the hot showers of Alfredo’s to thank as it cut the icy waters in the morning and, from my window, a panoramic vista of the mountains that envelopes the entire town of Sagada. You also have a choice of St. Joseph’s, located across the hospital and the well-preserved church, the Ganduyan and Sagada Inns or the more modern Igorot Inn. As a last resort, one can always get lodgings at St. Dominic’s School should they choose to be on long weekends where most tourists flock to escape the dizzying and choking confines of Manila.
Your next stop is the Municipal Hall, a one-stop tourist assistance center where a comprehensive schedule of what Sagada could graciously offer its visitors is conveniently posted. This includes the rates for a particular tour, the approximate time to complete the same and the equipment that may be required for the activity. Underground cave explorations require skull guards, head lamps, gas lamps, and in some cases, ropes for spelunking or rappelling, all of which are available for rent. It is strongly suggested, however, that the expertise of the official Sagada guides be acquired to maximize your tour and ensure your safety. Besides, a good portion of your fees are earmarked for the upkeep of the tourist areas.
It is important to note that the local tours are not classified according to physical fitness and your phobias. Neither is there any fine print on disclaimers, so it is best to inquire as to what one would expect to find. Now if you are among the tourists who prefer to appreciate what lies aboveground and take walks at leisure, fret not, the local map is a trove of treasure. Maps can be availed of at P5-P10 a piece even in sari-sari stores. Be warned though that they are not drawn to scale and, I suspect, could have been designated by a Sagada resident with fairly good feet and eyes as they indicate the time to complete the particular hike, provided you are able to spot the landmarks.
Among the suggested areas, especially for tourists who come only for a breeze and would rather sample the tourist highlights, the Echo Valley is a 20-minute comfortable trek from the town plaza. Likewise, the hanging coffins of Rock Valley have a cinematic effect as they are set against the rigid gray-and-white mountains which gives the tourist an added glimpse of the underground river and the mouth of the caves that, we are told, are all interconnected. It’s a pity I am claustrophobic and would not be able to disprove that statement. Besides, bats flying dangerously overhead are more than I can bear even with the promise of staggering views of centuries old stalactites and stalagmites. One can also wander to the small waterfalls surrounded by rice terraces with a fairly good cardiovascular exercise on the way back to the main road. I always took comfort in the thought that Sagada is not meant to be sampled like an eat-all-you-can buffet but rather it is meant to be enjoyed and savored like a fine cuisine or drank like a good glass of wine.
I recall my younger sister Amie, never the athletic type, who narrated with awe the spectacular views of Sumaguey Cave that included attractions of spelunking and rappelling before being doused by waterfalls cold enough to wake up the dead. Her guide then was Mang Jacinto who has since passed away and left a legacy to his son who spearheads the local association of Sagada guides. In fact, according to the younger guides manning the Municipal Hall tourist desk, the fastidious Mang Jacinto taught most of the local guides and his name is often spoken with quiet reverence. My brother Joel likewise mentioned that all the guides in Sagada have to pass the rigid rappelling course given by the mountaineers of Habagat for search and rescue missions. This with the safety of all local and foreign tourists in mind.
Surely after a hectic workout, one will eagerly sample the predominantly European-influenced cuisine of Sagada. We were told that, in early times, Belgian missionaries came not only to spread their faith but also to spread gastronomic delights in Sagada. Hence, the proliferation of superbly made yogurt mixed with fresh fruits (Ganduyan Inn), banana and wheat bread and oatmeal cookies (Bilig Cafe and other souvenir houses), a wide range of poultry and meat dishes of German (Yogurt House) and French (Alfredo’s) origins that will transport your tastebuds to European dining tables. One can truly marvel at the variety and quality of meals that have been apparently spiced by the confluence of local and foreign cultures. Where else can you feast on pinikpikan (Alfredo’s) that tastes like coq au vin serving four to six persons for only P450. Masferre Restaurant and Cafe serves the biggest crowd with wider sitting areas at affordable prices. Bilig Cafe, however, serves even heftier portions at the fraction of a price of regular meals. A cup of mountain tea or brewed coffee will allow you to linger in most restaurants, like Shamrock Cafe, to swap stories with local and foreign tourists alike. It is recommended, however, that prior reservations should be made with your preferred dish in most restaurants.
Except for bus schedules, there is little concept about time. I have likewise observed that the local residents are still surprised at the lowlanders’ (that’s what local and foreign tourists are referred to, by the way) impatience and penchant for being served in the manner of express food counters in Metro Manila.
A trip to Sagada, of course, is not complete without visiting the ubiquitous souvenir shops that take pride of the unique Sagada handwoven cloth that is brighter, more intricate and colorful than any other Northern Luzon weaving. The Sagada Weaving Shop sells quality works of art ranging from tablerunners, placemats, napkins, backpacks, wallets, jackets and native skirts. The Ganduyan Museum also has a fine assortment of collectibles that include potteries made by local residents. Other souvenir shops further down the Municipal Hall provide an assortment of inexpensive trinkets, handwoven cloths, food items like the local honey and other knit items you might all want to carry back home, if that were possible.
As if this is not enough to pleasantly assault your senses, the Greenhouse Inn invites you with their version of a scientific massage which is inexpensive at P150-P300 depending on the time spent to soothingly knead those aching muscles.
Alas, a visit to Sagada is not only inexpensive but truly enriching. More so when your trip, like mine, is met by local festivities, such as weddings, where the townsfolk welcome everyone to dance the Tadek and partake of the celebrations like any member of the family. Sagada, indeed, has given new meaning to borderless societies in this age of information technology. - Premy Ann G. Beloy (Third Prize, Travel Now Contest)
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