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Saipan: So Near, So Dear | Philstar.com
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Sunday Lifestyle

Saipan: So Near, So Dear

RENDEZVOUS  - Christine S. Dayrit -
I walked a stretch of beach, watching the sand become almost luminous by the light of a gibbous moon. A wave rolled up and dissolved into ribbons of froth.

Later, I rested on a hammock under towering coconut palms as a gracious Filipino waiter handed me an ice-cold margarita. Welcome to Saipan, your home away from home.

Saipan is three and a half hours from Manila via Continental Air Micronesia to Guam followed by a 30-minute flight to the northern Marianas capital.

I exchanged pleasantries with many of our fellow Filipinos who work there, feeling so warmly welcomed. Did you know there are approximately 20,000 Filipinos in Saipan – primarily involved in the hotel and garment business?

The warmth and hospitality of the original inhabitants, the Chamorros, is infectious. In 1521, when the tropical island was first "discovered," it was already known locally as an "Island for the People." With impeccable golfing weather all year round and beautiful seaside courses, it is an ideal dream destination.

I met up with the charming Mustafa Issa, general manager of the Hyatt Regency in Garapan. Garapan is Saipan’s center of activity and beachfront on the white sand of Micro Beach. The setting is the epitome of tropical lushness, with verdant blooming gardens surrounding saltwater lagoons filled with an eclectic variety of reef fish – including sharks and stingrays.

Pampered like royalty, I was awed by the breathtaking view of the turquoise waters from my balcony. The sky turned into radiant shades of red and amber as the sun set.

For sustenance, the delectable choices ranged from my favorite teppanyaki and sushi at the Miyako Japanese Restaurant to Chinese and seafood delicacies and sumptuous Chamorro cuisine. Needless to say, Hyatt is tops when it comes to dining!

I tried kayaking, snorkeling, parasailing under a brightly-colored chute and the banana boat speedboat ride to marvelous Managaha Island. This paradise is a must see for nature lovers and beach enthusiasts. For history buffs, there are remnants of Japanese artillery and the ancient burial site of a Carolinian chief.

After marvelling at the sun and sea, I checked out the greens at Lao Lao and Coral Ocean Point golf courses designed by Greg Norman and Larry Nelson respectively. Even if you play several rounds a day, the picturesque views and challenging designs of these world-class facilities will leave you wanting for more. One piece of advice to golfers though is to concentrate on their game and avoid being overly distracted by the breathtaking beauty – blossoming trees, seabirds, butterflies, giant turtles, even an occasional offshore shark. On windy days, the faint splash of spume on a rocky cliff-hugging tee is as refreshing as a tropical cocktail after a game. Worthy of mention is the stunning signature hole of Lao Lao – the 153-yard, par-three 6th, which requires you to hit over the ocean straight to the green – 120 yards from cliff to cliff. On the other hand, one of the signature holes of Coral Ocean Point is the 7th hole, considered one of the best par threes in the Pacific. The demanding tee shot must clear Shark Bay, an inlet of azure water, which gives the hole its name.

Indeed, it is wonderful to have the best of two worlds. The natural beauty of Saipan’s land and sea is coupled with the refined pleasures of a world-class resort destination. Then comes the experience of a traditional island culture and excitement of shopping for international fashion. Saipan has unsurpassed duty-free emporiums, as well as a number of stores owned and run by entrepreneurs who have settled on the island.

La Fiesta San Roque, a pastel-colored mall with twinkling lights and fountains, is a festive place especially towards sunset when the band comes out to play. In a quaint shop downstairs, I sampled the most divine Italian style gelato in sumptuous flavors such as chocolate and banana and Blue Saipan – flavored with pineapple, rum and blue curacao. On nearby Beach Street is the Duty Free Shoppers Galleria along with the elegant Hakubotan, Saipan’s main outlet for duty-free designer goods.

Saipan is delightful to explore because it has a sense of modernity and discovery that’s hard to find anywhere. Other highlights of my sojourn include a popular sunset-watching spot – the Thirteen fishermen Park, marked by a dolphin structure commemorating the 13 men who were lost at sea enroute from Saipan to the northern islands of the Mariana chain. The poignant precipices include the Banzai and Suicide Cliffs where hundreds of Japanese civilians chose death over surrender to US forces. At windy Bird Island, you will marvel at the rugged mound of volcanic limestone, which is home to seabirds. Another rewarding detour is to the beautiful Blue Grotto, a dramatic sunken pool with underwater passages leading to the ocean. While on tour, taste their local delicacies like homemade papaya turnovers, Chamorro specialties such as rotelli (tapioca-flour cookies), their version of bibingka; grilled sweets made from rice and coconut wine and other delicacies.

Saipan is rich with history of war and occupation, of shipwrecks and invasions and doubloons that still rest on the ocean floor. On Obyan Beach, there is a Japanese bunker with gorgeous ocean views from every window. At the unusual park that fronts the airport, mostly-intact structures from the Second World War comprise the interesting landscape. The Marianas Visitors Bureau and the Historic Preservation Office now has its headquarters in these solidly built heritage buildings. In Saipan, creative recycling, a fusion of the past and present is truly a laudable task for the whole world to appreciate.

For your next travel destination, picture the pleasures of Saipan.
* * *
For more information, call Ken Kaku of Hyatt Regency Saipan at (670) 234-12-34 or fax (670) 234-77-45. For comments, e-mail me at miladay@i-manila.com.ph.

ARING

BANZAI AND SUICIDE CLIFFS

BEACH STREET

BIRD ISLAND

BLUE GROTTO

BLUE SAIPAN

SAIPAN

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