Talk with Yan

There’s a reason why you’ll always find a Chinese take-away joint when you’re craving something delicious with rice — it’s just universally delicious. No matter the bad rap some fast-food Chinese restaurants get, steaming dim sum, sumptuous stir-fry and flavorful duck really do hit the spot, and have been doing so for a long time.

Chinese cuisine in the Philippines is mature, considering our proximity and the extent of the Chinese Filipino community thriving here.

With the increasing choices comes the clamor for enlightenment on the subject. Not having much experience in China, I rely on foodie recommendations and expert advice. I especially trust the insights of celebrity chef Martin Yan. After years of watching him on the telly, I met him over an intimate and absolutely delicious lunch at Summer Palace in Edsa Shangri-La, where I learned more about the wok, Chinese food and why he only uses one knife (which he produces and is engraved with his signature):

Apart from his shows, chef Yan also hosts food tours in China for those interested in firsthand insider experiences.

On The Radar: In the finals of Top Chef Season 7, the cheftestants fumbled over cooking with a wok. Is it that difficult?

MARTIN YAN: A wok can get very hot very quickly so you really have to pay attention to that. It’s also very heavy; that’s why you hardly see women manning the wok station. It’s not that they can’t handle it or the technique; it’s just really very heavy and thus tiring.

You love showcasing your knife skills on your show and during demos. Is it more the case of your method or the instrument?

Both. I can chop a chicken in under a minute and that’s just testament to practice. For the instrument (his choice is a Chinese cleaver), I only use my own for chopping hard bones to making paper- thin carrot slices. I helped design this all-purpose knife, and as long as it is sharp you really need just one.

Perfect dimsum every time at the Summer Palace in Edsa Shangri-La

After trying it, I realized that making dim sum is hard. What do you think is the most underrated thing about Chinese cuisine?  

A Chinese restaurant has so many dishes that involve a lot of different techniques. All this plus the expectation of speed makes the Chinese kitchen a challenging place to be.

How do you maintain your energy after years in the culinary industry cooking, hosting, travelling and teaching?

Cooking is entertainment; I try to interact with the audience so that they enjoy. With energy, well, I travel 250 to 260 days a year so maybe I am used to it. I’m probably the most well-traveled chef in our business. I go to both sides of the Pacific from Asia to Europe and North America too.

How do you relax?

On the rare occasions I am home in the Bay Area, I spend time at home and do a bit of gardening.

After 3,500 shows and your recent China odyssey now showing on AFC, what other countries would you like to feature in your show?

I would love to do a nine-part series on the Philippines. This is my ninth time here and there’s just so much to feature. I will be back. 

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From the appetizer to dessert, you’re sure to find traditional Chinese flavors executed in exciting ways by executive Chinese chef Tony Sum and dim sum chef Andy Liew.

The writer blogs at www.curiouscity.wordpress.com

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For more information on Chef Martin Yan, please visit www.yancancook.com  The 26-part series Martin Yan’s China airs on The Asian Food Channel on Skycable Channel 22. Visit AFC online at www.asianfoodchannel.com.