LV men 2009 fall/winter collection: Dress like kings

TAIPEI — It is my first time to visit this Chinese capital that people often compare to Japan. It’s nothing like Tokyo, I can tell you, but it is home to heartthrobs like the boy band F4, romantic TV serials, and some of the best dimsum in the world.

I’m here to cover Louis Vuitton’s latest for fall/winter 2009, beginning with the men’s collection and accessories.

This season it’s all about travel, inspired by the great lineage of African kings, as interpreted by Louis Vuitton’s studio director Paul Helbers, under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs.

“I began by imagining the traveling business wardrobe of an African king. I wanted to blend contemporary tailoring techniques with more traditional aspects of ceremonial dress,” Helbers said.

These are evident in the “intricate patterns, continual use of layering and the clash of materials or textures to create depth.”

For outerwear, Helbers created short military jackets with an empire silhouette, more formal wool jackets printed in subtle traditional African patterns, and long hooded coats with detachable lining, made from a mix of wool and nylon.

As an added treat, all jackets are lined in Louis Vuitton’s house Damier pattern.

These are layered over long knitted turtlenecks, cardigans and cashmere sweaters— with key colors in indigo blue, “uniform blue”, indigo Bordeaux, a rich vermillion and wintry whites.

I thought the standouts in this collection were truly the accessories.

Portuguese- or Hindu-looking knit caps sit like a puff on top of the head, giving the wearer a boyish peasant look.

Sleek, large-framed sunglasses lend a wealthy rock star kind of feel, while voluminous scarves are twisted and tied together, giving it an artsy look.

Bags range from the double man totes (such as a monogram paired with a jacquard tote) to a serious wheeled trunk/luggage.

Louis Vuitton’s monogram canvas is given a dramatic black trim and called Macassar, and football-inspired monogram bags are created from hexagonal patchwork pieces.

Last but not least, the sneakers produced in collaboration with American musician Kanye West were a standout and a pleasant surprise.

West, an outspoken Louis Vuitton fan and fashion enthusiast, says the shoes were inspired by science fiction, as seen in bold colors of red and neon pink, while a flap in the back of the show was meant to tuck in the hem of one’s pants.

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Louis Vuitton’s fall/winter 2009 collection will be available this September. For more information visit the store at Greenbelt 4, Makati, or call 756-0637.