The charming Luneta Hotel

You know what I’ve been dying to see?”  my good friend asks me.  Let’s call her Jo.  “The Luneta Hotel.”

 “Me too.  Let’s go.  I’ll pick you up at around 11 because it could take us an hour to get there.” Once I worked at the building now called Museong Pambata at the corner of Roxas Boulevard and T. M. Kalaw, or to use the old street names – Dewey Boulevard and San Luis. Those were the names of the streets in the 1950s.  I used to walk from the office to The Manila Hilton then to meet my friends after work. Of course I passed by the old charming building that was the Luneta Hotel.

 It was built in 1918, earlier than the Manila Hotel, by a French architect. I just remember the exterior charm of it.  It looked European, had little charming porches. It wasn’t a big hotel but over the years it had grown old, tired, ratty, nothing much was done about it until now.

 I had another reason for wanting to go to that side of town.  I moved to San Juan recently.  I have to go to Quiapo periodically. The last time I went, I did not much appreciate the route we took, although it brought me to familiar places of my childhood.  I wanted to test an alternative theory I had. From San Juan we would go to Kalentong, go straight down Pedro Gil, formerly Herran, end up in Roxas Boulevard, turn right at that street next to T.M. Kalaw and reach Quiapo from there. That route would lead us to our old parking spot in Quiapo.

 I remembered this route from my childhood. We took it daily to take me to school at Maryknoll on then Pennsylvania. I think that is now Leon Guinto, but I don’t know for sure.  A part of me felt vaguely familiar with the surroundings. You know the feeling? Like it’s almost what you thought but not quite?

 Off we went. It was pretty good sailing though the streets were crowded but at some point Pedro Gil became a one-way street so we took Quirino Avenue and got to Luneta Hotel anyway.

 “Let’s eat at the expensive restaurant,” I told Jo. She nodded vigorously.  When we got the hotel we noted the elegant quaintness of it. It had only one restaurant with a charming layout.  You walked through a bar and up a few steps and you were in the dining room.  Menu was nothing fancy. We asked what the specialty was.  The waiter said roast pork.  I ordered it. The roast pork was delicious. Jo tried to order kare-kare but we were told it would take a long time so she asked for lengua instead.  She said that was just regular, nothing outstanding.  Maybe they need to improve their menu. Their dessert was also delicious.

 The hotel is definitely appealing. We were taken on a walking tour of the rooms. A young man walked us through their premium suite, which they call the junior suite.  It is a corner room that overlooks T. M. Kalaw and its trees. The beds are all king size and for me the killer is the bathtub.  It’s sleek, modern, deep. I could see myself having a wonderful soak in one of those tubs. The appointments are very beautiful and comfortable.

If you get a room and if you tend to be claustrophobic like me, get a room at the front of the hotel or even on the right side if you’re facing the hotel. Don’t get rooms in the back because the view will make you claustrophobic.

“I like this place,” Jo says and I agree with her wholeheartedly. “Next time I need to escape I will stay here.  No one will think of looking for me here.” Jo is married, that’s why her name is disguised.  Me, I’m not married, don’t have anyone to escape from.  I can just stay home in my heaven.

Once upon a time I lived in a dark apartment with two bedrooms in Makati.  Now I live on one of the higher floors of a light, bright condominium in San Juan, where the three rooms are big and airy, where the breeze is so strong I had to weigh down my lamps with river stones otherwise the breeze would carry them across the room.  At night I have a fabulous view of everything from San Juan to Roxas Boulevard in lights.  When I wake up in the middle of the night I wonder – am I in heaven?

 I suggest you go and check out the Luneta Hotel.  It is charming and the dessert is also delicious.  Then put it on your list as an ideal place to escape to because no one will find you there.

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