Discovering cool

Temperatures in Manila have been through the roof. The readings have been over 36 degrees centigrade — that’s in the shade! With the sorry lack of greenery in the metropolis and the mindless amount of concrete we’ve poured, the urban heat-island effect has caused many of us to seek relief in cooler climes.

Thankfully, one need not fly to Siberia or the upper reaches of Everest to get out of the heat. Boracay is fine but is also steaming and so chockfull of people you would think that half of Manila was there (and they probably are). Provincial destinations are great but the queuing at the airport (for people and planes) is ridiculous. So I took the family up to the nearest cool destination just an hour’s driving distance from Manila—Tagaytay.

The route up to Tagaytay is now easier and with a few more options to the Sta. Rosa-Tagaytay Road, which is getting busier. The SLEX is thankfully fully operational and the Eton exit provides a new egress point from the super highway.

There are many reasons Tagaytay is a now more attractive quick getaway. Even before reaching the foothills, one can have a hearty breakfast at the restaurants in Nuvali and nearby developments, which are a bit more pleasant compared to those highway gas and fast food pit stops.

The road up to Tagaytay is also developing into a destination for arts and crafts and Cebu-type modern furniture. Filipino businesses have a tendency to cluster and every time I go up I notice one or two more furniture shops offering everything from side tables to whole mini-cabanas.

Tropical landscape in cool Tagaytay.

Once up on the ridge, things are shaping up. A plethora of restaurants has sprung up. The choice now rivals Boracay, but the view is totally different. Taal Lake and Volcano are undeniably part of the draw. You cannot replicate this in a theme park or mall.

Twink and I had always wanted to try a boutique hotel for an overnight stay, specifically the Discovery Country Suites. She had read such great reviews of it and the offerings of its restaurant Verbena. We checked in with our two boys into one of their seven large rooms — all very homey and spacious. We got the topmost suite, the Oxford.

Juancho points to one of the most dramatic views in the world, a volcano in a lake on the island of Luzon.

Our suite was, well, really sweet. The Oxford has a fireplace, a large balcony (as big as a small hotel room) with a fantastic view of Taal and a spacious walk-in dressing room and toilet (as big as a standard sized hotel room). We settled down quickly to an afternoon enjoying the facility’s offerings. Twink and Juancho went down to the terraced garden and a large heated Jacuzzi (actually the size of a small swimming pool). Wham and I vegged out on the balcony.

By five in the afternoon we prepared for their daily wine and cheese offerings at the restaurant lanai. A great way to segue to dinner. The service was excellent and the food matched the reviews Twink had read. Juancho, of course, couldn’t wait for dessert. While having dinner we spied something rare in the garden below—fireflies. Juancho was mesmerized.

After dinner we retired to our suite, picking up a few DVDs at the foot of the stairs. There were also books to borrow—I found Nick Joaquin’s book on Manila, which I’d promise myself to read again.

Up the suite we discovered their nightly treat, milk and cookies! It was a nice touch but Juancho had a better idea — marshmallows! He requested the front desk to send some up and for the fireplace to be lit. We spent the next half hour roasting marshmallows — in summer!

The place was just perfect for a getaway. Apparently many book the place for wedding entourages. The large rooms are perfect for prepping up the bride or the groom. Discovery Country Suites is also on that side of the ridge that is still not too crowded. The views from the rooms and the restaurant are not compromised by rusty roofs or billboards.

It’s good that Tagaytay has not succumbed to the overbuilding in Boracay (although if you do go to the island, stay at Discovery Shores—run by the same company—the best place to stay in). I hope they keep a tight rein on restrictions started in the ‘90s, which ensure limits to buildings on the ridge. They do need to impose more control over tricycles (noise), billboards (blight) and overbearing structures. Maybe government can find another route for cargo trucks; as well as monitor the speed and recklessness of passenger bus drivers.

Swim in a heated Jacuzzi with a cool view.

Thankfully there still are gems like Discovery and stretches of the ridge still uncompromised. Tagaytay was intended by President Manuel L. Quezon as an alternative to Baguio. In fact, he did commission a master plan to develop it as a summer capital of the new republic, much like Baguio was for the Americans.

Today you can rediscover it as the capital of cool.

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Feedback is welcome. Please email the writer at paulo.alcazaren@gmail.com.