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MANILA, Philippines - Who is the Italian born chef who has been key in bringing classical Italian cuisine to Australia with his Buon Ricordo restaurant and cookbooks?
Coming from a family of restaurateurs in Naples, he began working in his family’s restaurant at the age of 14. He was, however, encouraged by his father to work for others.
He came to Australia in 1972 and joined his father, Mario, at Arriverderci in East Sydney. Seven years later, he and his father opened Pulcinella in King’s cross, where he established his reputation among Sydney diners for both his food and ability to create a vibrant dining atmosphere.
In 1987, he opened Buon Ricordo, which has gone on to become a landmark of the Sydney dining scene. His strong principles of service and excellence permeate in every thing his does.
He champions the return to classical Italian cuisine. His menu includes cucina povera — the food of the poor — unpretentious dishes that shirk flamboyance for emphasis on flavor and taste.
“Thirty or 40 years ago, there was no serious Italian food here,” he says. “Then a few people — one of them was Beppi Polese or Beppi’s, the other was my father Mario — started to do some authentic food — antipasto, lasagna, cannelloni. I followed my father and we worked together ... but the new generation wanted to do sophisticated dishes and lost the continuity, the way cooking should evolve. One section of Italian food has been missing, and it’s this good, healthy unpretentious good. We need to get back to it.”
Buon Ricordo’s signature dish is Fettuccine al Tartufovo — fettuccini with cream and Parmesan, topped with a fried truffle egg. Savoring this dish is said to be a mind-blowing experience with the egg yolk oozing over the pasta, which when tossed transforms into a creamy truffle infused sauce with parmesan on top.
He has also published several cookbooks: Modern Italian Cooking in 1986; and La Cucina Italian: The Four Seasons of Italian Cooking in 1994. The latter book also touches on the planting of extensive olive groves, which is has requires a lot of patience.
In 1993, he was instrumental in establishing Five Chefs Dinner for the Starlight Foundation, a non-profit organization that grants wishes to serioausly ill children. Each year, this charity event raises funds to assist the Starlight Foundation in its valuable work. Buon Ricordo is also one of the sponsors of Sculpture by the Sea, Sydney’s premiere art exhibition.
As one of a group of Sydney Italian restaurateurs proud of their heritage and committed to safeguarding Italian culinary culture, he is involved in the establishment of a Council of Italian restaurants in Australia (CIRA). Still in its initial phase, it promises to be a vital contribution to the teaching and promotion of the food industry.
His professional achievements have been recognized by the Italian government, which in 1997 awarded him the Insegna del Ristorante Italiano for his contribution to Italian food outside Italy; and the Italian Restaurant and Catering Association, who inducted him into the Hall of Fame in 1999.
Last week’s question: Who was the multi talented twentieth century Italian architect, furniture designer, photographer, whose oak and glass table for Casa Orengo in 1949 sold for a world record price of $3,824,000 during a Christie’s Auction in New York in 2005?
Answer: Carlo Mollino
Winner: Linda Hipolito of Muntinlupa City
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Text your answer to 0915-1371538 with your name and address. One winner will be chosen through a raffle of texts with the correct answer. The winner will receive P2,000 worth of SM gift certificates for use at Our Home, SM Department Store, or SM Supermarket. They can claim their prize at Our Home in SM Megamall. Call the store manager at 634-1951, 634-1952. Bring photocopies of two valid IDs and a clipping of the Design Quiz issue in which you appear as winner.
