How to grow Century Plants

Finally, after our longest hiatus yet, spanning the entire month of January, Succulentophile is back in its fifth year running. I’d like to apologize to our regular readers for the long break, but I was a bit distracted by a somewhat long, though good, trip to the US last month and have only now just about recovered.

Kit Zobel once asked me where I get all these ideas for Succulentophile. To be honest, even I am amazed. What started as a modest two-year project in my mind back in 2002 has really gotten a lot of traction and support. I must say that the world of cacti and succulents is really vast indeed and provides lots of interesting topics for discussion. One of these days, Kit, it may be quite interesting to do a story on Fernando’s bike trips across the Baja Desert and his encounters with the giant cacti over there.

I will kick off this new year with a topic I know very little about myself, but which is a burning passion for many collectors in the Philippines and worldwide: the agaves, or what many commonly call "Century Plants." Agaves have become so popular not only because of their beautiful colors, leaf shapes and varieties, but also because of their general ease of culture. In fact, agaves have been growing in Philippine gardens for several centuries now, brought here during the galleon trade days with Mexico during the Spanish era. Agaves are generally endemic to the New World.

You have all probably seen these specimens with the long-leaf rosettes and the vicious end-spike at the tip growing all over gardens and landscapes across Metro Manila and beyond.

My first encounter with agaves was in the home of my Lola Pina (the former Congresswoman Josephina Belmonte Duran of Bicol) and Lolo Pio Duran (also a congressman from the same district) in South Forbes. Unfortunately, it was not a good experience, though it was definitely a most memorable one. As my brothers and I were playing and running around the vast gardens of the Duran home, I found myself running into (and at the losing end of) a huge Agave Americana spike, which tore through my sleeve and pierced me in the arm. Ouch! The plant is really an imposing one, so much so that some homes use agaves as a natural hedge to secure their properties.

After recovering from the shock – and pain – from that first agave encounter, I remember looking and admiring that great old blue agave, and thanking God that I didn’t get the spike in my eye or another part of my body. Agaves are a most impressive plant indeed.

Succulent-plant.com states, "Over 300 species of agave have been described, but only about 200 are currently recognized. Most species are monocarpic, although a few can flower several times during their life. The flowers are ‘perfect’ with both male and female parts. Many species of agave are bat-pollinated and produce musky perfumes as attractants. Others produce sweeter odors to attract insects.

"Most agaves consist of rosettes of thick, hard, rigid leaves often with marginal teeth and usually with a lethally sharp terminal spine. Prolific vegetative growth and offsetting at the base of the plant or through stolons usually maintains a clump of plants, thus compensating for loss of flowering rosettes. A few species remain solitary, relying on seed production for survival of the species.

"The interior of the leaves contains longitudinal fibers representing the vascular system. Agave leaf fiber was used by the Native Americans. Agave fiber from a range of species is of commercial importance, with the best quality fiber coming from the youngest leaves. Sisal (hemp) made from cultivated Agave sisalana is used to make clothing and rugs.

"Carbohydrates stored in the core of several species of agave were fermented by Native Americans to make a beverage called pulque, which was used in religious ceremonies. Distillation of a similar ferment made from the developing agave flower bud is the basis for the modern production of Mescal. Only if made from the blue agave within the tequila region of Mexico can the distillate be called ‘tequila.’"

On a recent trip to Thailand, the Cactus and Succulent Society of the Philippines visited a specialist agave farm featuring some very beautiful and impressive variegated specimens. Some of the members went absolutely gaga over there. Two of the most ardent agave fanciers over here are Becky Buenaventura and Jeff Patiag. Jeff is the walking encyclopedia on this genus and has a very nice collection.

Another great collector of agaves is our vice president Dorie Bernabe. On a recent trip to the West Coast, Dorie snapped a whole bunch of agave photos, and some of them are featured here today.

Sunset Gardens writes: "Agaves are living contradictions. Their perfect shapes – they’re often likened to giant stylized roses or artichokes – make these strapping plants seem like the essence of order. But their wicked spines and leathery leaves remind you that the New World natives are plenty wild. That unusual combination of fierceness and symmetry makes agaves very useful in the West’s most arid gardens."

Sunset Gardens gives the following tips for raising agaves:

"The plants really do thrive on neglect. They tolerate most soils as long as they have good drainage, need only modest amounts of water, and rarely require fertilizer. Agaves are adapted to rocky, native soils and won’t need amendments. But they’ll tolerate rich, loamy soil if it provides good drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, mix some pumice or gravel into the backfill and plant your agaves on a mound.

"The first month or two after planting, irrigate plants every four or five days. After that, they should be established and will need little supplemental water. Irrigate twice a month in summer in the low desert and once a month elsewhere. With rare exceptions, agaves don’t need feeding. In fact, fertilizing them may encourage flowering, which you don’t want, since most agaves die after bloom.

"As in a garden, agaves in pots or other containers need good drainage. Try a mix of equal parts compost, potting mix, or garden soil, and either sharp sand, pumice, or gravel. (Don’t use potting soil that contains peat moss). To prevent disease, position plants so the crown sits well above the soil line and will remain there after the soil subsides, says Arizona agave expert Mary Irish. Give plants a very light layer of slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season. Let containers dry out by at least half between waterings.

"In the Northern Hemisphere, agaves’ only significant pest is the agave snout weevil. This insect tunnels into the center of the plant and lays its eggs. Infested plants show leaf wilt, followed by total collapse. The larger species, such as Agave americana, are the most susceptible. Unfortunately, there are few effective control measures. If the problem occurs, remove and destroy the infected agave along with any weevils or grubs you find. "

I must add that in the Philippines, scales are a real pest for succulents across the board, including agaves. The key for me is good culture and vigilance. At the first signs of scales, it is quite simple to just scrape them out from the leaves. I really hate using chemicals on my plants nowadays because of the harmful effects on us (and overuse will likely kill your plant, too). With heavier scale infestations, soapy water or even a dilution of rubbing alcohol and water will do the trick. And there is a white oil (non-toxic to humans) that I have been using lately with great effectiveness on scales and the rest of the pest spectrum.

Sunset Gardens ends on this note: "If the enormous Century Plant (A. americana), which can spread to 12 feet in diameter and grow leaves six feet long, has scared you away from agaves, come back for another look. Most plants in this family stay in the two- to four-foot-tall range – perfectly at home in small gardens – and some species are even smaller. Agaves come in a huge color range of greens, blues, and grays. One is just right for your garden."