Colin Mackay soars again
Finally sitting down at our table, comfortably settling into our plush seats at the helm of the control tower, the soft lighting bouncing off like stars on the window panes, sultry jazz playing on the speaker with the happy clink of glasses and china in the background, glancing up from his menu my friend turns to me and asks, “So, are they on soft opening?”
After a sip of my perfectly chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with a big, knowing smile on my face, I reply, “Oh, no. Colin doesn’t do soft openings. He just opens.”
Thus begins my experience with Blackbird, which currently is not only the title of one of my favorite Beatles songs but also now one of my favorite restaurants in Manila. In a place where we often readily dole out forgiveness for mediocrity during a restaurant’s first few opening weeks and sometimes months; where establishments emblazon in large letters upon the storefront “Soft Opening,” often accompanied by the preemptive “Please bear with us” — no judgment here; I for one know how difficult it is to run a resto, which emphasizes my next statement even more — there is something truly remarkable about chef/ restaurateur Colin Mackay’s dedication to absolute perfection from Day One.
So few restaurateurs get the triumvirate of restaurant success — food, service and ambience — all down as perfectly as he does. Add on top of that apt pricing and the most elusive of all criteria — consistency — and there is no doubt why he is at the top of his game. The man behind industry stalwarts Sala, Sala Bistro and People’s Palace —instead of going the way of rampant expansion as most people do when presented with a successful dining concept with multiple outlets — has proven the time-immemorial adage of “Quality over quantity.” He has waited for seven years since his last opening to fine-tune the right concept and find the perfect location, culminating in the world-class beauty that is Blackbird.
The setting alone is unquestionably stunning. The 1930s Nielson Tower with its lofty ceilings, spiral staircase and tall windows is the only pre-WWII structure standing in Makati and has been transformed into an equally unique space graced by Colin’s impeccable taste. The lounge with its rich wood paneling, geometric brass and mirrored art deco touches and structural yet plush mid-century seating can stand on its own as a wonderful place to unwind after work with a refreshing cocktail or savor the lingering notes of an indulgent meal over a cognac and some pseudo-philosophical conversation. It is for me one of the most beautiful rooms I’ve seen in the metro, where Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall could easily rub elbows and clink glasses with Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, along with George Clooney and fiancée Amal Alamuddin. It is the epitome of timeless design that pays homage to vintage jet-set chic, when travel was an adventurous art form and not just an industry.
In the same light, I love the more obvious and whimsical nod to the structure’s past as an airport control tower with the aluminum riveted metal doors adorned with portholes and the little symbols for the restrooms that resemble a pilot’s wings. No detail is too small but it never goes into kitsch. The rest of the space is done up in black and white with pops of cerulean blue — the stark simplicity not detracting from the vibrant green nature of the Ayala Triangle Gardens. There is a feeling of classy restraint that also transcends into the menu.
The menu reads like an airline route map. Voyage from Florence to Saigon, London to Bombay, New York to Seoul with dishes like Duck Pappardelle and Grilled Pork Belly skewers with noodle salad; Smoked Trout and Salmon Pie and Spiced Grilled Chicken with Dal and Brinjal; a crisp Apple Salad with Green Goddess dressing and Grilled Flatiron Steak with kimchi, ginger and spring onion.
Despite the variety of flavors everything was done simply without too much adornment — straightforward, well-executed and wonderfully presented. I have to admit that during both occasions I visited, I was drawn more to the Asian flavors. A beautiful seafood platter of perfectly grilled lobster, prawn, fish and cuttlefish served with lime and nuoc cham. Octopus with what seemed to be his version of Korean Gamjajorin. Crispy soft-shell crab with curried flavors and cauliflower puree. And my absolute favorite, the Twice-Cooked Beef Short Rib with a Hot and Sour Herb Salad — tender morsels of slow-cooked beef enhanced by a crisp, smoky char, topped with a garden of bright, fragrant herbs and dressed in a tangy, fiery sauce. It was so good the appetizer portion was too small for the seven of us at the table and we ordered another. Fortunately for my husband and I, our other friends were on a cigarette break when the second plate arrived and we shamelessly attacked it for ourselves, declaring it their fault for going down and having a smoke.
While I did go back for lunch with the intention of trying their continental cuisine, I ended up having the Indian-inspired grilled chicken, which was just such a wonderful version of what I consider to be comfort food (I think I was Indian in a past life) that I wiped out my entire plate, leaving not one bit of basmati or papadum crumb on it. The brinjal happened to be one of the best I’ve had in a long while. I don’t doubt, however, that the more classic fare should be up to par considering their sister continental restaurants.
The desserts are fun spins on old favorites: a really nicely done baked Alaska with tangy passion fruit, lemon meringue tart accentuated with floral notes from the pink peppercorn in the crust and the lavender ice cream, and the apple tart with burnt butter ice cream. Yes, you heard that right: Burnt. Butter. Ice. Cream. So. Good.
Service is flawless. Every server is capable and knowledgeable. No headless chickens here, but a seamless dance of meeting everyone’s needs and even anticipating them. As we were sitting by the lounge enjoying a few after-dinner drinks, I kept on emptying my glass of water. Every time I looked back down at it, the glass was full. I never once had to ask them to refill it, nor did I even notice that it was being done. Pure front-of-the-house magic. Considering this was only two days after they’d opened, again, let me reiterate — Colin does not do soft openings.
As much as I know that there is no reasonable connection, I can’t seem to get that Beatles song out of my head: “Blackbird singing in the dead of night. Take these broken wings and learn to fly.” It most definitely does not reflect Colin’s path, as this is no learning curve for the master. Perhaps I can draw a parallel with the old Nielson Tower, which has been left ignored for a rather long time. Gathering dust, sitting sheltered amid overgrown trees, sadly unvisited as a library in this digital age, which, in the right hands, restored to its former prestigious glory, can finally shine. “All your life. You were only waiting for this moment to arrive… Blackbird fly.”
