Everything I learned in the kitchen, I learned from Mom
Life has always been a series of challenges for me and recently, after the loss of my mother, I embarked on a sentimental inventory of things she gave me. One of the things I came across were wooden heirloom cookie molds used to make araro and the iconic San Nicolas de Tolentino cookies. These cookie molds brought back childhood memories. My mom told me that my dad surprised her when he gave them to her as a birthday gift. My dad commissioned someone from Pampanga to have them done. I remember helping my mom when I was still a little girl mold and roll the cookie dough of araro and San Nicolas cookies using the molds. Little did I know that these molds would be instrumental in my learning that my mother is still with me to this day.
Iconic treats: San Nicolas cookies As usual I was commissioned by a couple to do their wedding cake. As anyone would expect, I was not in a creative mood to undergo such a process. I would usually have two meetings with my clients, first to interview the couple, to get their ideas as to what they liked and the theme of the cake; then the second, to make a sketch of what the cake might look like. I was struggling to think of an appropriate creation for this couple; I asked them to bring a copy of their wedding invites as well as swatches of their clothes hoping to draw inspiration from them, to no avail.
The third meeting came, and as I was desperate both for time and ideas, I chanced upon the heirloom molds lying around the table; they were being studied as to how they could be made into a wall decoration. Chef Patty, upon seeing them, said that perhaps it would be a good idea for them to be used once more by the latest batch of students in my culinary school for their upcoming graduation. And so, a burst of inspiration struck me. Right then and there I asked the couple if they would like the molds to be the inspiration for their cake. I decided to use the molds since the theme of the wedding was Filipiniana-inspired. Up to now, I think Mommy is guiding me in coming up with ideas for my creations. I was glad when they agreed, because the end result was remarkably beautiful. I made the cake with a lace pattern following the designs of the heirloom cookie molds, where instead of using cookie dough I used pressed fondant instead. The result was a towering cake that was rustic and elegant. I was proud of that cake for so many reasons, but mainly because it reminded me that at the time I was in a rut, my mother’s influence could and would inspire me no matter what.
It was with this air of nostalgia that I found myself in the kitchen of the iconic atching Lillian Borromeo, a woman known throughout Pampanga for her culinary and historical prowess. Our heritage tour began with typical Kapampangan breakfast fare such as tamales, suman, tsokolate batirol, with mini palitaw balls filled with yema — all prepared and presented with the traditional flair.
Our tour would be a combination of hearty eating and distinct historical recollection of the origins of our food. We were told that the old, rich Kapampangan families made the San Nicolas cookies for a variety of reasons. Atching Lillian researched her roots and meticulously revived the basics as she documented the history of Pampanga, with examples such as how they made the traditional ensaymada with the fat of a pig, egg yolks, and gatas ng kalabaw (carabao’s milk) or evaporated milk versus the more contemporary versions.
She told us the reason why most traditional recipes called for egg yolks was due to the training of the local folk by the Spanish nuns, who needed to use the oversupply of egg yolks left after the egg whites were used as mortar mixed with lime powder to build edifices such as churches and government buildings. These yolks would start to stink after a while, so they were repurposed for making delicacies such as ensaymada. To think that you are brought back to the time of the Spanish friars thanks to a recipe. That would be an appropriate description of what Atching Borromeo’s tour felt like.
Aside from her rich stories of the past, her equipment and outside kitchen served as an informal gallery showcasing rustic elements from the Dulang, which is a low kneading board traditionally used by farmers to eat their lunch at the farms, and the bilao, or circular woven trays used for various kitchen tasks. Her bilaos were distinctive, though, with the initials of the families to which they belonged emblazoned at the back as to confirm ownership. She also showcased her collection of wooden cookie molds that had similar patterns to mine. I remarked that perhaps my dad and she had the molds made by the same craftsman. I was also fascinated by the garapun, a gigantic glass jar filled with duck eggs instead of chicken eggs.
Atching Lillian showed us another delicacy: the Dulce Prenda, a cookie stuffed with candied watermelon, whose dough is derived from the San Nicolas cookie dough. She also taught us that glazed or candied tomatoes as well as empanaditas with cashew are better cooked in copper pans in order to avoid discoloration and overcooking. The food that we got to cook in the midst of this very interactive history lesson was worth all the effort, from bringhe to sisig. We dined by the bangerrahan or common area, as we talked of the good life our heritage once offered us. I realized that it is now up to us, the keeper of our traditions, to pass on to the next generation our rich cultural and culinary heritage, which will serve as a legacy for all of us for ages to come.
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