Las Flores: Catalan flavors in a gastro-bar

When Sergi Rostoll, Uri Singla and Dani Aliaga disclosed that they would no longer be running Barcino, I felt a little sad. After all, the boys from Barcelona who have made Manila their home were practically synonymous with the popular Spanish wine and tapas bar that has sprouted six branches around the city.

It was over brunch during last year’s Christmas holidays when I noticed Sergi, who was visiting from Shanghai — where he is based as regional sales director for Gonzalez Byass — acting a little strange. “Uri and Dani are picking me up and then we will have to meet some… people.” “People?” I asked, “Who?” He looked at me with an expression that reflected a combination of stress, nervousness and excitement. “Oh, it’s a secret right now, I don’t want to jinx it. But we are working on something very exciting… a new concept.”

Fast-forward seven months later to the second to the last day of July. Las Flores, the project of the former Barcino boys (while they no longer handle operations, all three still remain part owners), a Catalan gastro-bar celebrating the owners’ roots, finally opened its doors to the public on a quiet corner of Bonifacio Global City, at One McKinley Place on 25th Street.

It is a partnership with the Andilana Group (the “mystery people” they were meeting over the holidays), which owns over 50 restaurants in Madrid, Barcelona and the Costa Brava. The name Las Flores, which translates to “The Flowers,” was decided on because they want it to be a happy place. And sure enough, pretty flower patterns color the bar counters, paper napkins and empty wine bottles used as decor, juxtaposed against white-washed walls, industrial lamps and chandelier, wooden and concrete flooring and mismatched canvas chairs that give the place a homey feeling. “It’s a casual place where you can eat or drink,” explains Sergi.

Margaritas in a jar

The week of the soft opening coincided with Typhoon Gener’s unwelcome visit to the country. However, Las Flores proved to be such a friendly, cheerful haven that glowed with bright lights while the rains and winds beat heavily outside — that I found myself there twice in three days with friends. Hong Kong-based international mixologist Giancarlo Mancino (the man behind the popular cocktails at the popular Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong) was in town to personally train the staff to create the specialty drinks.

Las Flores owners Uri Singla, Sergi Rostoll and Dani Aliaga

At Las Flores, the cocktails are a standout. The Sangria Bianca (P400) is a take on the white sangria served on a large plate with three pieces of salchichon on toast. The Hendrick’s Not with Cucumber but with Rose Water and Petals (P350) is a feminine take on the on the gin and tonic, topped with actual rose petals that diffuse the aroma of the flower. The Beer Jared Margarita (P400) is a twist on the tequila-based cocktail, topped with beer, and served in a jar. And my personal favorite, the Calamansi and Cherry Blossom Moscow Mule (P350) is homemade ginger vodka, calamansi, and cherry blossom flowers, topped with ginger beer. Served in a gold stainless-steel mug, it is light and refreshing with a fruity citrus first sip, with a slightly sweet aftertaste. It’s one of those drinks where you want another one, and another one, and another one, only realizing you’ve already had five only when you see the bill. 

The Tapas connection

The owners stressed that their cuisine was “mostly Spanish with a clear Catalan Mediterranean influence” — modern tapas served fun and creatively, most with flavors that are slightly sweet and savory. Cold appetizer favorites Tuna Tartar with Avocado and Tomato Jam (P350) and Scallop Ceviche Marinated in Olive Oil with Mixed Herbs (P350), herald the freshness of the Mediterranean coast.

Hot small plates like the croquetas stuffed with Spanish chorizo (P195) are balls stuffed with béchamel and chorizo bits, and the Patatas Bravas (P195), go against the traditional potato wedge form, and instead are served as cylinders with the salsa Brava (mayonnaise, fresh tomatoes and Tabasco) injected in the middle. The Potato Bombs (P225) break into a spicy filling yet are topped with a slightly sweet-savory tomato salsa. The Botiffara (P450) has the famous Catalan sausage laid out on thinly sliced baked potato, topped with caramelized onions and shiitake mushrooms. The vegetable risotto (P375) has the supple consistency of slightly wet and dry, topped with crispy leeks.

Tuna Tartar with Avocado and Tomato Jam

For dessert, the cheesecake with mixed berries (P195) served in a martini glass was a delicious way to end the night. It is simple yet comforting and requires digging the spoon through the thick, creamy consistency to reach into the graham biscuits.

For chocolate lovers, the Chocolatisimo (P185) is a chocolate coolant that oozes melted chocolate when sliced, and served with ice cream. The wine list at Las Flores is reasonably priced, and offers selections from Spain, California, Australia and Italy.

The personal touch

While some restaurants make the mistake of stopping at the quality of the food and drink, the owners of Las Flores go the extra mile and extend their personal, amicable service to each and every one of their patrons. It is not uncommon to see the owners personally welcoming guests, taking orders, serving dishes and drinks, and clearing them afterwards, and in between, chatting with the guests.

The newest Catalan gastro-bar in town, Las Flores is tucked into a quiet corner of the Fort at One McKinley Place.

I’ve noticed that in other places, owners or staff usually only pay special attention to the people they know, people in power, people they see on television, or personal friends, but at Las Flores, everyone is a VIP. Even if the boys are my friends, it was impossible to talk to them until after service, as they were all busy running around all tables, greeting, serving and talking to everyone — old friends, acquaintances and strangers.

In fact, several friends of mine who visited the restaurant on separate occasions told me that it is the personal attention given to each customer by the owners themselves, a rarity these days, that adds a special feeling to the place.

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Las Flores is located at ground floor, One McKinley Place, 25th Street, Fort Bonifacio, Global City. For reservations, call 552 2815, 0916-619-3365, visit http://www.lasflores.ph or email info@lasflores.ph.

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You can reach me at http://www.twitter.com/cheryltiu