M marks the spot
When it comes to wine, food and mood, M sets the bar. M stands for Masseto, the wine bar and restaurant that is the current rave among serious oenophiles and gourmands alike. Obviously, you can count me as part of the latter. In the intoxicating world of liquid spirits, my knowledge and experience is limited to identifying the difference of white and red wine by virtue of its color, and not complexity! I do acknowledge my fascination with how it comes into being — its transcendence from the mystical conversion of simple grapes picked from the vine, to magical elixir savored in a glass. Furthermore, I admit that I enjoyed the glass of red wine I had with my magnificent lunch during my last visit.
Masseto is named after one of the world’s most prized wines and it compares favorably to the great Italian wines in the world, and is praised for its full-bodied complexity and smoothness. True to its namesake, despite its discreet location in Makati, the bar that wishes to be low key (tucked somewhere along Valero st., the only clue that will lead you to this secret treasure is a red seal stamp marked “M” at the entrance) has become one of the metro’s hottest destinations.
Let’s consider the atmosphere. I was there for lunch on an invite by my good friend interior designer Maja Olivares Co, who is responsible for the restaurant’s refined and understated appeal. Decked out with modern minimalist touches, the interiors were intriguing. During daytime, natural lighting casts shadows on the ceiling with a silhouette of bamboo plants strategically surrounding the restaurant. It is a soothing sight and imaginative of Maja. I spotted a slim window panel by the entrance that gives customers a good peek at the business just outside the restaurant. At one time I was an unwitting witness to an intimate moment, unbeknownst to the parties involved! Voyeurs would love this place!
The heavy, plush armchairs, tables and bar counter were in wine colors of burgundy. Masseto at night, meanwhile, sets a more intimate atmosphere; the dim lighting exudes a soft romantic glow.
“Wine is sunlight held together by water,” as ancient Italian astronomer Galileo eloquently remarked. Through time, and the world over, the fascination with wine has flourished. In the Philippines, serious wine appreciation is growing and more wine bars are sprouting as a result. Maja, a wine connoisseur herself, is excited at how Masseto has established itself as the definitive place for vino adventures in just a few months since it opened.
She enthuses that Masseto offers over 250 different types of wines from 20 top wine-producing regions. And here, she says, is the ideal place for people who want to peacefully bond with friends while nurturing a nice buzz. Wine that is not chugged or chased but rather sipped and savored. Whether one is a seasoned oenophile or a novice, anyone who drops by at Masseto will have a fuller appreciation for wine taste with each encounter.
“A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine” after all.
Sharing the limelight are the fabulous culinary creations of wunderkind chef Tippi Tambunting: a fitting homage to a premium wine selection is a menu of exquisite dishes. And chef Tippi delivers with such flair and authority for her cuisine of choice: continental.
I left Maja to choose what dishes we would be eating for lunch. The starters included delicious knockouts, such as:
Goat cheese ravioli, olive butter. If one could chew on clouds, it would probably taste as soft and light as this! Delightfully subtle. Joy, joy, joy.
Chips and truffle dip. I thought this was just your basic potato chip and dip snack to pass the time away while watching DVD in your favorite armchair. But the moment I dipped the chips into the dip I was blown away by the truffle oil. In an instant I was assailed by the earthy mushroomy taste and pungent aroma truffles are known for.
Masseto gives Tippi a free hand to buy authentic ingredients and remain true to each classic dish she executes deftly. Expensive and rare they may be, it is a measure of the restaurants pursuit of quality and excellence.
Spaghettini bottarga. Maja ordered spaghettini bottarga, cooked in extra virgin olive oil and topped with bottarga (an Italian fish roe). A fantastic dish she refused to share with me! This warrants another visit to try it out, because I love the intense flavor of bottarga. I heard Tippi’s flavorful spicy rendition will even haunt you in your dreams.
Crispy duck confit. Ooh, la, la! Let me say that this tastes like perfection. No wonder it is Masseto’s specialty of the house with roasted potatoes and reduced balsamic vinegar. Poached, then baked and finally broiled to crisp perfection — a process that takes four days in the kitchen.
Strawberries pavlova. The sweetest ending of endings. This is a crispy meringue topped with crème Chantilly and fresh strawberries. A simple dessert of Chef Tippi — but upon eating you can consider it a killer dessert.
For someone so young in the culinary world, chef Tippi Tambunting is a marvel. Her style is honest and straightforward, focusing on the sensual pleasure of food.
And wine appreciation need not be intimidating. Masseto will be conducting Wine 101 seminars for those who are interested. Plus more good news: they will be serving brunch on Saturdays starting April 17. For more information, drop by 114 Valero St. Salcedo Village, Makati. You can also contact Masseto at 810-3565 and e-mail them at masseto114@gmail.com.
What makes the ideal wine bar, a strong wine program of course with a dream cuisine and atmosphere to match.
Masseto has surely hit the perfect formula for food and mood. I am looking forward for more enchanting visits for fine wine and dine!
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